When I researched the Chiang Mai’s food scene online, one restaurant kept popping up: David’s Kitchen (at 909). It is particularly well positioned on Tripadvisor, where not only is the first rated restaurant in Chiang Mai, but it also ranked as the best fine dining restaurant in Thailand and in Asia. In 2017 it made it again to Tripadvisor’s list of of the top ten restaurants in the world according to people’s reviews.
While I do not care much about Tripadvisor’s rankings, I felt I could not miss this restaurant while in Chiang Mai and I made a booking though the restaurant’s website that was confirmed instantaneously.
David’s Kitchen is mostly a French influenced restaurant with some international and fusion dishes. It is the result of the collaboration of a well-traveled British gentleman, David, his wife Prom that is also the pastry chef, and Chef O, a Thai professional trained with French and German chefs.
The visit
I reached my destination using the South Asian Uber, Grabcar (it works marvelously in Chiang Mai) and I was escorted into the restaurant, which remained tucked away from the main road. The restaurant is housed in a modern and architecturally remarkable villa basically divided in two parts: a bar section and the dining room. The dining room was spacious and, when I arrived at 6.00pm, there were already a few people seated. On the table, a holder would display “welcome” and my name. The receptionist even correctly guessed my name when I arrived at the entrance (probably I was the only party of one at that time) and did not need to waste time going through the reservation list. Very good start.
I quickly ordered my selection (a soup, a pasta dish and a main) since I had studied the menu online and I knew what I wanted. Actually, I made a small adjustment to my mental selection on the fly as I was given a list of daily specials and one of them was just perfect. Meantime I was promptly offered water, the bread basket and a nice tomato dip. I was also offered an amuse bouche in the form of a crispy salmon croquette. Very good. At this point a manager, a relatively young Thai gentleman, approached me for some casual conversation. I must say that it was one of the few times when I kind of enjoyed the chit-chat.
First dish was included in the list of their signature creations: a velouté of yellow Japanese pumpkin soup, white truffle foam and a salmon croquette. Yes, this was exactly the same croquette I had as an amuse bouche. Apart from the small repetition, I really enjoyed the soup (and I am not into soups at all). This was a simple yet an excellent dish.
The second dish consisted in pan-fried pumpkin ravioli with spicy tomato sauce. I liked the idea of pad-fried ravioli: a similar treatment is given to some Chinese dumplings, so I was curious to experience the result. It was an original dish that I enjoyed thanks to the texture provided by the pan-frying.
At this point I was offered a scoop of lemon sorbet to cleanse my palate.
Then, the time for the big ticket item came. It was selected from the daily specials and was a piece of wagyu beef cheek in classic Paris mash. I am a big fan of beef cheek and I cannot find it in Asia easily, so when I see it on a menu I usually order it. The meat was sensationally tender and tasty.
To make the meal perfect, I added a dessert: sticky toffee pudding with vanilla bean ice cream. Perfectly executed.
While I had my meal, the dining room quickly got busy. I believe there was only one small table without the reservation sign.
The service throughout was impeccable, professional and all staff could speak English. I must add that the service was also very rapid: the whole meal only took one hour. This was not a problem for me. I think it speaks of how efficient and well-oiled the kitchen operations are in this restaurant.
The check
For this four-course dinner I spent 2,648 THB, or aorund 80 USD. This was my most expensive meal during my trip in Chiang Mai. The wagyu cheek accounted for 50% of the total check, but it was worth it. While expensive by Chiang Mai standards, I found the final check more than acceptable considering the quality of the food and the service. Beside, they do not overcharge the water that is particularly appreciated. It should also be mentioned that they have a very attractive four-course set menu for 1,450 THB, so it is entirely possible to dine in this world-class restaurant for a very reasonable price.
So what is special about David’s Kitchen? Are the accolades deserved? To answer I will add that David was not around that night. The day after, I received an email in which David would apologize for missing the opportunity to greet in person and added some details about my whereabouts that must have been referred by his manager (so it was not a generic template thank you letter). This speaks volume of the dedication behind David’s Kitchen. After all, I was just a tourist probably never coming back again, still I received this kind of personalized attention. I believe that this is the key to understand why guests leave satisfied. They have great food, but let’s be honest, most dishes on the menu (from gravlax salmon to the braised lamb shank) are quite common and easily found in similar restaurants around the world. What makes the difference, in my opinion, is this ability to provide a warm and customized experience even to the casual visitor. Not many establishments are able (or even willing) to achieve this. If you pair this with the perfectly executed dishes, the professional service and the elegant ambiance, then traveler’s awards make perfect sense.
Personally I was very happy with the dinner and, if I will visit Chiang Mai one more time in the future, I will try to book a table again.
Where in Chiang Mai:
113 Bamrungrad Road.
At time of posting, only open for dinner and closed on Sundays.
Check their website that includes description of the menus and an easy online reservation system.