One of the things I like about Japan is that every region, every prefecture, almost every town boast its own food delicacy, usually the labor of love of many generations meticulously improving production techniques. The popularity of Kobe beef is a spectacular example of this local search for excellence, but actually beef from Kobe is only one of many top-shelf qualities of beef available in Japan. When I heard that a particular quality of wagyu (marbled) beef from the remote Shiretoko peninsula was available in Sapporo I knew I needed to give it a try.
The visit
Reading an article on Savory Japan, I learnt that Shiretoko beef was available in a teppanyaki restaurant owned and operated by a native of the town source of the beef. By the way, if you fancy quality meat in Japan, the teppanyaki style (based on a flat surface grill) is the way to go, not only because it ensures an uniform and perfect cooking, but also because you have a chance to seat at the counter and observe the chef doing his or her magic.
I visited the restaurant very early (5pm or so) because I was afraid of possible competition. I ordered the signature 100-gram beef rump steak (medium rare) and the Sachiku pork in tonpei yaki style. I also got the customary otoshi appetizer in the form of a soup and some eggplant.
First came the pork that was ably prepared in front of me on the hot plate. Sachiku pork comes from a farm in Sachi, a town also located on the Shiretako peninsula. According to an online source, this “red pork comes from the crossbreeding of male Duroc and several other breeds. It has been trademarked for ten years. This farm’s breeding area is twice as large as typical breeding grounds, and they feed the pigs original vegetal fodder made of barley. The farm also strictly controls its hygiene and quality by not putting stress on the pigs. The pork that comes from these pigs is sweet and fatty without a strong pork smell.”
I can attest that the pork chop that was cut in front of me was ostensibly reddish and it tasted sweet, but without too much fat. In the tonpei yaki style, the pork meat was enclosed in an omelette, also cooked on the teppanyaki, and a number of sauces were added, including mayonnaise and the sweet tonkatsu sauce. This set up is very similar to the dressing of the classic okonomiyaki, the Japanese savory pancake. The pork meat was slightly rare to enhance its flavor. It was a large portion, ideal for two people to share.
Then the beef steak came! The preparation included warming up the meat (you can see how marbled it is in the picture above), cooking it with the addition of beef butter and some use of the blowtorch to light up the oil. The steak came cut in eight pieces (chopstick friendly) with some salt and mountain horseradish (this is a very light wasabi, not spicy at all). I enjoyed trying this tasty and juicy meat that seemed as natural as it gets. It was less marbled than original Kobe beef, but to me this was a plus, since I find meat that is too marbled (hint: marbling comes from the fat!) a bit difficult to digest. Overall it was a great piece of meat!
Finally, I had the guts to add a dessert: matcha (green tea) ice cream coming with slim chocolate cookies (pictured above, on the right, while the otoshi is pictured on the left).
The check
The check was 4530 yen (around 40 USD) that I found reasonable for a dinner in Sapporo with this kind of ingredients. The steak was 2000 yen before tax and the pork 900 yen. The otoshi added 500 yen.
I truly enjoyed the visit and the owner/chef spoke some English and gave me some insights on the cooking process. Beside the food, I really liked the atmosphere. I immediately felt to be around family. This, in the best tradition of Japanese cooking, is a family business; the wife was around attending to the tables and the restaurant has a warm and cosy feeling. I also appreciated their attention to the details in decorating the restaurant. Their chopstick holders are particularly kawaii and you really get the feeling to step into someone’s living room. I highly recommend this place if you are in Sapporo (they also have okonomiyaki and an extensive selection of wines and sakes and I wish I had time to try their hamburger steak). I personally liked this establishment more than some luxury restaurants I visited in Tokyo or Sapporo. I am surprised it is not listed yet as a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin’s guide, but for once I might just be ahead of the curve.
Where in Sapporo
7-7-2, Minami 3-jo Nishi, Chuo-ku, Sapporo-shi, Hokkaido
Address in Japanese: 北海道札幌市中央区南三条西7-7-2
Tip: with the English name you won’t find it on Google map, but you can use this map or Google map with the name in Japanese. It is six minute from Susukino subway stop and even closer to the Shiseikanshogakko-Mae Station of the tramway. Finally, you can find on Google map the location of a nice coffee shop that is just adjacent to the restaurant.