There are quite a few players in the bar-to-chocolate business in Tokyo (see my review of Green Bean to Bar Chocolate). Minimal is one of these with a well-established presence and multiple locations across town. In 2019 they opened a bakery cum chocolate cafe called Minimal The Baking that attracted my attention since they were offering pairings between chocolate and tea (and also sake, which is offered also at Green Bean to Bar Chocolate, however the option of tea was particularly attractive since I do not drink alcohol).
The visit
Their store is located just 50 meters from the South Exit 2 of Yoyogi-Uehara Station.
It is a small place.
With very minimal decor and furniture. Just space for a couple of parties. Luckily when I arrived all the seats were available.
They have a very focused range of chocolate cakes.
For my pairing I had tea and two baked chocolate bars with different types of cacao (normally would be one, I doubled down). One bar was from Ghana beans and some others (they call it “High Cacao”) and another was from Colombia bean and was more fruity.
Overall I was a bit disappointed. The chocolate products were too dry in my opinion (I like more creamy creations) and I am not sure the pairing thing added anything to the experience.
The check
Tje pairing cost 1210 yen, plus other 660 yen for the additional piece of chocolate (around 17 USD in total).
In January 2020 I started my Asian Spring Festival travels landing in Da Nang, in central Vietnam. I had a specific goal: dining at Nén. This was a detour from my usual itinerary including Ho Chi Minh City and Chiang Mai and I am really glad I took it. The restaurant offers a modern take on Central Vietnamese cuisine and is helmed by chef Summer Le, a native of Da Nang. The name in Vietnamese indicates an obscure edible bulb from the region that can be described as a hybrid between garlic and shallot. Chef Le aims at highlighting underrated if not unpopular local ingredients and turns them into high cuisine.
The visit
I had a reservation made through their website. The restaurant is housed in a modern villa in a quiet residential district of Da Nang. They only served two set menus, Excursion and Journey. I chose the shorter one, Excursion (I wish I could have mixed the dishes of the two menus).
My “work station” was very comfortable and the staff was professional and happy to answer my questions about the dishes in English.
The service began with what they called an aperitif: amberella (a local fruit) and apple juice drink. Normally they serve liquor, but since I mentioned that I do not drink alcohol, they thoughtfully made a substitution. This happens to me in the best places.
Then there was trio of appetizers. The first was a cracker filled with eggplant topped by fermented grilled pork and coriander. Very nice taste all around.
Then there was a piece of squid with mango mousse and ginger (very tender and the final kick of the ginger was nice).
Finally, the third appetizer was fermented pig ears on a sesame cracker with some mayonnaise (a bit spicy).
The first dish was a pumpkin and carrot soup with crab paste from a small freshwater crab found in Da Nang countryside, hidden beneath a shrimp. The sophistication of the dish did not betray the authenticity of the single ingredients.
The dish was followed by its palate cleanser… yes, every dish was paired with a different palate cleanser. This was jack fruit ice cream.
The second dish was thinly cut curated veal with herbs and sauces. I like cold cuts and I enjoyed this dish.
The palate cleanser was a nice passion fruit granita with jelly.
The third dish was duck breast cooked sous-vide and later lightly pan fried with mango jelly, dried apricot powder, topped by Vietnamese basil and Vietnamese chili satay sauce with cashew nuts. I wish the meat had been a bit more tender, but was another great dish with unexpectedly satisfying flavor pairings.
The new cleanser was coconut milk with black jelly, fresh jack fruit, and shredded coconut. Clearly inspired by local desserts, it could have been a dish by its own.
The fourth dish was sticky rice and fish, soft boiled quail egg, gac fruit (a type of melon) used to color the rice.
It came with a trio of homemade pickles: cabbage, mango, mungbean sprouts.
The dessert: was a dish with sun-dried banana and banana ice cream, complemented by kumquat granita.
Finally I was offered Nén’s version of the local egg coffee. While I am not a coffee drinker, I enjoyed this conclusion of the meal.
The check
The check after tax and service charge was 1,263,000 VND or 54 USD, an absolute bargain for this kind of menu.
The goal of the chef was to offer a modern take on local ingredients and I think it succeeded. The attention to details was admirable (having several palate cleaner between dishes was impressive) and there was a lot of thinking behind every dish (some of this was shared through a page of chef notes that was handed at the end of the dinner, but could have been provided at the beginning). For example, duck is an overlooked meat in Vietnamese fine dining, but chef Le with the use of modern techniques (sous-vide) brough it to the next level. The use of sun-dried banana was very meaninful as sunshine is an integral component of life in Da Nang and it has always been exploited by the locals to cure their food.
I place Nén on par with other great restaurants I enjoyed in Asia such as Anan Saigon, Labyrinth in Singapore, Paste in Bangkok, and even, to some extent, Nabeno-Ism. They all revolve around the theme of reviving traditional cuisine with the use of modern techniques. And I think it is a great way for chefs to play their creativity and pay homage to their heritage.
Cheevit Cheeva Cafe is a dessert restaurant specializing in Korean bingsu with a local tweak. They have several locations; I visited the flagship shop in Nimman.
The visit
The cafe occupies a house in a backstreet in Nimman area.
In March 2020, they brought in a sister property: the bakery and cafe called Groon that now occupies half of the space.
The main dining room has high ceiling.
This was my favorite spot. You have to order at the cashier and pay, then they will bring you the order.
Their claim to fame is the bingsu that comes with Korean and Thai toppings (such as mango and sticky rice). Their bingsu is not made out of shaved ice; rather they use pure milk.
I did not have the bingsu (too big), but they had some “affogato” made with the same shaved milk. I had the chocolate version. The shaved milk was refreshing and a very interesting take on the bingsu.
On another visit I had their Nutella cake, that was quite good.
They had a selection of flavored coffee cold brews. I tried one and I was happy with the drink.
The check
The affogato (really a mini bingsu) was reasonably priced at 95 THB (around 3 USD).
The cake was only marginally more expensive: drink and cake cost me 210 THB (6.50 USD). Prices were reasonable.
Where in Chiang Mai: 6 soi 7 Sirimangkhalajarn Rd., Suthep, Mueang Chiang Mai. Website: https://cheevitcheevacafe.com/ Other locations in Chiang Mai: Nim City Daily Shopping Mall, Star Avenue Lifestyle Mall, and Jampha Shopping Mall Lamphun. There is even a franchisee in Taipei.
Cuisine de Garden is a restaurant in Chiang Mai specializing in creative tasting menus using top-shelf Thai ingredients transformed into creative dishes with a Japanese influence. The chef-owner also operates a restaurant with the same name in Bangkok.
Let’s see the tasting menus for January 2020 and the summer 2020 menu.
The visit 1: January 2020
The restaurant is located in the Southern part of Chiang Mai in a house immersed in a lush garden.
The interior features a contemporary dining room with both tables and counter seats. I sat at the counter which was nice because all dishes were finished up, if not outright assembled, on the counter. It felt like a Japanese kaiseki, but with Thai ingredients.
During my first visit, on the blackboard above the kitchen area the main ingredients of the day were nicely drawn.
The drink menu was essential, but not a problem since I only drink water. There was a wine pairing available. I highly appreciated that water was not overpriced. A rare find these days!
The amuse bouche was a bite of a jelly with local spices.
The first appetizer was a sort of mille-feuille with crustacean meat and lime caviar (a very prized ingredient these days).
Next was oyster and calamansi.
The final appetizer was a Thai fish sashimi with herbs. Now that I look again at the plating, do I see a fish head shape?
The first main was a combination of figs, cream cheese, and a cat fish “bacon”. Basically the cat fish meat was dried and crispy like bacon. A very interesting and delicious solution.
Then there was their tartine with fermented fish and fruit. The tartine was made of Japanese floor and on the right there were goodberries.
Then I was brought an egg with a sort of nest. I was instructed to open the egg and pour the content on the dish. The next was just to place the egg shell.
Actually the result was not bad. What I got was a very interesting dish with three layers: the “onsen” egg, the fried noodles, and free-range chicken fibers with its juice. This is one of their signature dishes that is usually on the menu.
Then, hidden beneath a leaf, there was a piece of Buk Siam fish and green mustard leaves.
Finally, the mains were topped by a coffee glazed pork belly with winter pumpkin.
This last dish came with steamed rice and dashi broth to be eaten “Japanese style” (ochazuke). A rice dish is a classic ending also for traditional kaiseki. As always, the presentation was impressive.
The main dessert was a composition of different textures of white chocolate. It was an incredibly elegant dish and also nice to eat.
Then there was also a bucket or stones… with one edible. Well, I saw this trick from Gaggan, but who knows who invented it. I did not have the courage to ask.
Finally I was offered an herbal infusion…
…and a trio of petit four.
The visit 2: Summer 2020 menu
In my second visit I went with a friend in early March 2020 for dinner. There was a new tasting menu. The chef was in Bangkok, but his crew took well care of us and two other tourists… we were a couple of weeks away from the Covid-19 lockdown.
The menu had the same grammar but many new dishes.
The amuse bouche was a combination of three different bites with local spices.
The second dish was quite fun. We were given a bowl with tiny dried shrimps and various ingredients (coriander, Sichuan pepper, chili…) to be mixed and shaken together.
Then there was a deep fried frog leg with summer citrus. I am not a fan of frog, but the taste was good.
The next dish was a tartine with fermented cat fish (in garlic) and good berry and papaya jam. This is also a signature dish, a similar one was also in the previous menu.
Then we were served a piece of Buk Siam fish with pickled tomatoes and vinaigrette, to be soaked in a broth.
The signature onsen egg with free-range chicken fibers and dried noodles was again present.
The last dish was sliced beef with black rice and dashi stock. I was not particularly impressed by the beef.
The final part of the dinner started with a mango granita, figs, and cheese.
The next dessert was a delicious banana custard and ice cream.
Finally there was again the treasure hunt for the edible stone (filled with coconut milk) and petit four (to be mentioned the use of sticky rice, a nice kick back to the Thai tradition).
We were also offered some green tea to complete our meal.
The check(s)
The price after adding water was around 1,900 THB per person (58.5 USD). Same price on both occasions, even if in the second menu two dishes were lumped together with the amuse bouche. I think the price was more than reasonable for this kind of creative tasting menu.
Personally I liked it. I appreciated the impressive visual presentation of the dishes, the combination of Thai and Japanese flavors and techniques, and seeing the dishes completed on the counter was a nice plus. If you like multi-course menus, this is an unmissable stop in Chiang Mai.
Where in Chiang Mai: 99 Moo 11, Hang Dong. Website (for reservations): www.cuisinedegarden.com.
B Samcook Home16 is a restaurant in Chiang Mai that offers dinner set menus combining Thai flavors with Western, Japanese and Chinese influences. It is also open for lunch with a la carte menu. Let’s get this out of the way: Samcook is one of the most interesting and fulfilling dining experiences in Chiang Mai. Both the flavors and the service won me over and I ended up trying it twice. What they did on my second visit was remarkable.
The visit(s)
It is a popular restaurant and is often fully booked for dinner. I later discovered that, at the time of my visit, it was number 1 in a famous trip recommendation website that I truly despise but it is relied on by many tourists. In this case I can see why it attracts so many positive reviews. Spot totally deserved.
The restaurant is located in a house in the Southern part of Chiang Mai. It is also a home stay (not to self: next time book a room there!). The interior is modern and with visually appealing decorations.
A notice at the entrance set the mood: Sam Cook is a family operation that strives to provide an intimate dining experience. The pillar of the kitchen is, of course, Sam that came to my table several times to explain the dishes.
The dinner opened with a cold herbal drink.
The starter was a spring roll with cream cheese and crab meat. Really delicious. This and all the dishes came with edible flowers coming from Sam’s garden.
The next dish was a brilliant cross-over between the classic tom yum Thai soup with coconut and the Vietnamese pho soup, with two skewered prawns. I could definitely detect the herbal flavors of a Vietnamese pho.
The next dish – and we are still in the appetizer part of the menu! – was a pork rib with garlic pepper sauce. The rib was described on the menu as a fusion between Chinese and Thai cuisine: the rib had been boiled with Chinese herbs for two hours, then stir-fried with fresh garlic and sweet chili sauce. To be eaten with your hand, the result was tender and flavorful.
Before proceeding with the mains, I was offered a tomato juice palate cleanser.
The first main was a salmon with a delicate lemon spicy sauce. Sam buys full salmons and cleans them himself. The dish was described as a fusion between Western cuisine (the grilled salmon) and Thai (the sauce).
The second main was a smoked duck leg with a mix-berry sauce and dragon fruit. The flavors all amalgamated splendidly.
At this point Sam asked me if I wanted an extra main… but I was almost full so I went for the next dish, the dessert that included a passion fruit drink and a classic Thai sticky rice dessert. On the plate there was a stuffed elephant that was a gift to keep.
Before living I was offered another gift, a cup of coconut ice cream. Finally, they asked me where my hotel was and called a Grab Car to take me back. What was amazing is that they insisted on paying for my trip back (it was almost 15% of the value of the bill!). They offered an amazing deal of care.
My first visit was at the end of January 2020. I went back in early March with a friend, again reserving my spot via Facebook. My friend got a menu quite similar to the one I had back in January. However, Sam offered me an alternative blind menu with all new dishes. This was unexpected (I did not mind eating again some of the original dishes) and, once again, a great example of real customer care.
My special menu started with an herbal infusion with a Thai flower. The initial dishes were a cocktail with meaty seared scallops with chili sauce and flowers, tenderloin beef with shiitake mushroom, and a mind-blowing avocado filled with crab meat ans crab roe (my favorite dish of the evening). The palate cleanser this time was a coconut drink. The first main was a colossal salmon dish, with big sashimi slices and oversize rolls with cream cheese (an organic soy sauce procured through a customer was provided). Then there was a Chinese/Thai fusion dish with shrimp ravioli in mussaman curry (this was the dish that I liked the least as the mussaman curry flavor took over, but still a good dish by all means). Finally, the dessert was poached apple jelly and a passion fruit drink. Even the final gift was different (a coin case this time)! I have included the pictures of this second menu in the slideshow above. Once again, we were offered the ride back to our hotel and some ice cream to take away.
The atmosphere was lively and on both visits there was a musical talent playing guitar and singing (but not too loud). Even during the second visit, at a time with very few visitors in Chiang Mai, there were quite a few people for dinner.
The check
This fully satisfying dinner cost me 990 THB (or around 30 USD, including the taxi ride back!). I am showing both the check of my first visit and the one of the second visit with a second diner. Water was included. The value was amazing.
Fusion cuisine is risky, It is easy to get silly and mess up a dish. But not here. All the dishes were substantial, featured top-shelf ingredients, and a lot of preparation. They were labor of love and the result was consistently palatable.
Needless to say, this is a great dining experience in Chiang Mai that I fully recommend.
A board in the dining room with past menus and handwritten comments by satisfied customers.
Ministry of Crab, the famous Colombo’s restaurant, has started an international expansion and opened a branch in Shanghai in 2019. I visited it twice.
The visit(s)
Ministry of Crab set shop in the ground floor of Barbarossa, a Middle-Eastern themed lounge/restaurant located inside People’s Park. Getting to the restaurant may be a small adventure. Tip: enter the park from the entrance near the Shanghai History Museum to maximize your chances to find it quickly.
The restaurant is finely appointed and seating is comfortable. The menu, called “Amendments” to their “Constitution” showcases crabs and prawns imported from Sri Lanka (shipped live twice a week).
In my first visit my main dish was one of their large prawns (the largest available at the time of my visit, around 400 grams). You can choose the sauce: pepper (my choice), chili, curry, garlic chili.
I also had their clams.
And a prawn skewer (the prawns came already de-shelled, which was nice).
In my second visit I went for one of their famous crabs. I opted for the “large” one (around 900 grams). They have bigger ones. They showed me the crab that was really not happy about the situation and tried to escape…
I was provided (and I used) the branded apron.
The crab came in its garlic chili sauce and was already cut in six parts. There was a substantial amount of meat, I think two people could have shared it. The sauce, that is a special creation of one of the founders of the restaurant, was really delicious.
Appropriately, I had a reserve of “cube” bread that was very useful to scoop up the sauce.
My second dish was the pot with prawns and curry. The great thing about this dish was that the prawns were already cleaned from the shell. The curry was perhaps too sweet, but still a great dish.
The check(s)
The first check was 563 RMB (80 USD). The big prawn accounted for around 50 USD.
The second check was 994 RMB (140 USD), the large crab was around 90 USD. I believe that this second menu could have been split by two (not excessively hungry) diners.
The seafood was expensive, but it was also really good. I think the checks were proportioned to the quality and it makes a great experiences for a seafood lover.
Where in Shanghai: Inside People’s Park, 1/F, 231 Nanjing Xi Lu. In Chinese: 南京西路231号1楼. Website: https://www.ministryofcrab.com/
I always like restaurants that try to innovate traditional dishes in a tasteful manner. Chef Table Food & Wine in Tainan falls into this category. Chef James proposes Western-inspired dishes using local ingredients and Chinese techniques.
The visit
The restaurant is located on the second floor of the stylish Changyu Hotel.
I arrived for a late lunch on a Saturday. I had reserved a table communicating on the Facebook page of the restaurant. Answers were instantaneous! I later learnt that the page is managed by the chef himself. I was very hungry.
My first dish was a “shrimp brulee egg” with seaweed and sweet and sour sauce. It was a nice mix of flavors, a nice variation on the theme of seafood omelettes popular in Taiwan.
The restaurant has a number of items that can be ordered from the grill. I had scallops and the local milk fish. The milk fish lived up to its reputation and it was incredibly juicy. Portions are small, so you can order several items. Vegetables were included. I wish I had ordered more.
I also had the deep-fried soft shell crab with mustard mayo that did not let me down.
Another interesting dish was the cauliflower with a poached egg and dry shrimps.
Finally, I had their quesadilla that came with a very Chinese filling: roast duck and cheese.
The check
For this Lucullus-grade lunch I spent 1017 NTD (33.50 USD). It could have been enough for two people. I enjoyed every single dish. I think The Chef Table is a great place where to divert from local food and experiencing Western dishes reinterpreted with local ingredients.
Where in Tainan: 2f, No. 89, Section 1, Beimen Road, West Central District. In Chinese: 台南市中西區北門路一段89號2樓. Visit the Facebook page for up to date menu.
Lured by its inclusion in the list of Asia’s 50 best restaurants (2019), during my September 2019 trip to Hong Kong I made a reservation at Neighborhood, a bistro hidden in Soho. It is listed on some websites as a “French” restaurant, but the chef-owner, David Lai, plays also with Italian and Spanish recipes and ingredients.
The visit
I established contact with the restaurant on their Facebook page, then they asked for my mobile and we exchanged a couple of text messages to pinpoint a reservation. I was warned that I would get a bar chair, that was fine since I was alone.
The restaurant has an unassuming front in an alley.
The restaurant technically is located on Hollywood road, but you won’t find it there… rather you have to look for the nearby Man Hing Lane (shown above).
I was initially seated at the bar as expected. After 10 minutes one of my leg was numb… it was really an uncomfortable chair and luckily after some begging I was moved to a normal table.
I already knew that the menu changes frequently. I was a bit disappointed that the menu I was handed was remarkably shorter than others I saw online. The most interesting dish would have required a pre-order. Yet, there were some attracting dishes and the ingredients seemed to be handpicked.
My first order was an appetizer, Spanish salami that came with a fantastic ciabatta bread (apparently they buy the bread from a nearby award-winning French restaurant, Belon).
My first dish was a delicious beef tartar with salmon roe. The addition of salty fish eggs gave a nice touch to the overall flavor.
Meantime I was offered a complimentary dish: some grilled bell-peppers. Very nice.
My last dish was handmade garganelli (a type of pasta) with an interesting combination of spicy scallop skirts and beef tripe. It was quite spicy (I would say Korean style), but very good.
With the check, I was offered a complimentary French pastry.
The check
The final check was 610 HKD (78 USD) for three courses. Not outrageous and the food in the end was good. This was a luxury casual restaurant. If I was living in Soho and I was a millionaire, I would make it my kitchen. At the same time I feel I missed something since I could have planned my dinner in a more effective way if I had seen the menu beforehand. If you go, ask them to send you the menu, when available.
Where in Hong Kong: G/F, 61-63 Hollywood Road, Soho, Central. (But look for Man Hing Lane.)
Man Mo Dim Sum is the brainchild of Swiss-born restaurateur Nicolas Elalouf who wanted to create a fusion menu reflecting the multiplicity of Eastern and Western influences blending in Hong Kong. Dim Sum dishes were chosen as the target for this experimentation and the menu was created with the help of chefs boasting Robuchon and Ding Tai Fung pedigrees. The result is a charming bistro located in Upper Lascar Row (also known as Cat Street) behind the stalls of a curio market. It has been operating since 2014.
The visit
I had a chance to try the restaurant with three friends from Hong Kong on a quiet weekday in September. We arrived quite late, but it is an all day dining venue, so it was not an issue.
The restaurant offers different types of seating: bar chairs on the left, normal chairs/bench on the right, and a couple of armchairs and sofas on the front. Service was very friendly and they went above and beyond finding for us the right seating arrangement.
The set lunch menu attracted our attention. It was perfect to get an introduction to the restaurant.
The hot dish of the day was a delicious rice with chicken.
The bao (Chinese burger) was snack-size, filled with meat, and came with Thousand Island sauce that could be injected inside the bun with the dispenser.
Then we all chose different dim sum dishes to experience the menu. The first was a crispy wonton with shrimp. Quite good, it was the most traditionally-crafted piece of dim sum of the meal.
The ratatouille dumplings were quite interesting. Definitely good, but I would have expected more flavor coming from the ratatouille.
Then there was a very tasty dumpling with goat cheese.
Finally, included in the set menu, there was a chicken dumpling I did not taste.
We also added the foie gras xiao long bao. It was universally appreciated around the table and the foie gras flavor was distinct. I need to note that the skin of this dumpling was thicker than usual xiao long bao.
The set menu also included a dessert. Two of us chose a Nutella ball, resembling a local dish, but with a heart of Italian spread.
Other desserts tried by the group were Bun Tatin and Hong Kong style lemon tart.
The check
The final check was 865 HKD (110 USD) that included the extra foie gras xiao long bao. The individual cost for the set menu was 156 HKD (around 20 USD). All reasonable in the comfort of a nice environment.
Dim sum is everywhere in Hong Kong. This restaurant offers a nice variation on the theme and left me the desire to go back to text more dishes.
Where in Hong Kong: Wah Koon Building, 40 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan. Website: manmodimsum.com.
An Italian friend of mine invited to a dinner organized by the Association of Italian Academics in China and the Shanghai chapter of the Italian Cuisine Academy in an Italian restaurant in Shanghai, Va Bene, to celebrate Leonardo Da Vinci. 2019 marks five centuries from the death of this boundless genius.
The dinner menu was designed by the chef of Va Bene and inspired by Leonardo and his time. Before the dinner proper, an Italian professor based in China, Andrea Baldini, spoke about Leonardo and his relation with food. There was a lot to be said. I am reporting what I heard from the professor. (He also framed his remarks within the context of creativity theory, but I will skip on this aspect since the focus here is food.)
To begin with, Leonardo is believed to have invented the saffron rice, a typical dish from Milan. While working for Milanese and French royalty, Leonardo was often involved in the organization of banquets and he invented a number of tools to expedite the work in the kitchen, including some pasta grinding machine. Leonardo was very much interesting in what we call today “plating”, that is the aesthetic presentation of food. He even started his own restaurant in Florence in cooperation with another illustrious artist, Sandro Botticelli. It was specializing in frogs, but it did not survive long (perhaps being ahead of his time). The table napkins are another invention ascribed to Leonardo.
The president of the Shanghai chapter of the Italian Cuisine Academy tried to argue that Leonardo may have been the illigimate son of a Tuscan nobleman and an Asian slave. So chances are that Leonardo was half Chinese! But do not quote me on this.
The dinner
The dinner and the presentations took place in the Va Bene restaurant in Xiantindi. They prepared an impressive table occuppying the all length of the dining room located on the second floor of a traditional shikumen house.
The dinner started with three type of canapes: cucumber with delicious cream cheese, lemon and mint; a creamy cod puree on a crispy semolina cracker; a small pastry filled with lamb ragout and cinnamon. I think they did a very good job with these amuse bouche.
The break basket was also there.
The appetizer platter included three items: chicken liver pate in a sourdough bread “oreo” with some orange jelly (top); a classic bruschetta with a piece of finocchiona (a type of Tuscan salami), Parmesan cheese foam and onion jam (creating an interesting mix of sweet and sour, pictured on the left); a fantastic porcini mushroom flan with sweat garlic cream on top (right). I appreciated the creativity of these appetizers and how the references to Tuscany and flavors of another time were gradually introduced.
The first main (“primo”) was the classic saffron risotto with a boost of bone marrow. This dish could not be missed since Leonardo is believed to be the father of this quintessential Milanese risotto. It was very good, I would say perfectly executed.
The second main (“secondo”) was a very inventive dish: roasted pork filled with beef, figs, and foie gras in a sauce made with egg yolk cream and anchovy mayonnaise. Two small boiled chestnuts completed the ensemble. This dish was inspired by a popular practice in banquets at the time of Leonardo that we might call “recursive filling”: the idea of filling a type of meat with another type of meat also filled with a third element. Strangely I did not find the dish very flavorful, but I really appreciated the inventiveness.
Before the dessert, we were offered pecorino cheese (both spicy and sweet) with fruit mustard. The cheese and mustard were excellent.
The dessert included a glass of vin santo, a typical dessert wine from Tuscany.
The dessert was one of my favorite dishes because it was delicious and made full use of the ingredients and cooking style of five hundred years ago. It was a very soft bread cake with raisins, Elderflower rosemary with almond milk.
Wines were a big part of the dinner with a selection from Tuscany and Lombardy, the two Italian regions more connected with Leonardo.
The check
The price of the dinner was 700 RMB. I wish there was a price for people like me that did not drink wine. Not a cheap dinner, but I appreciated all the organization and creativity behind. Certainly I do not regret attending and learning more about Leonardo Da Vinci in the kitchen.
Where in Shanghai: Xintiandi, 2/F, North Block, Lane 181 Taicang Lu. In Chinese: 太仓路181号2楼新天地北里, 近马当路.
