Month: November 2019

Three absurdly good chocolate desserts in Shanghai

Stop reading if you do not like chocolate or sugar is not your thing. Also, I urge moderation. But if you have a sweet tooth, these three desserts are to die for.

1. Le Bec’s chocolate cream pudding

Épicerie & Caviste 62 Le Bec sells some great sweets. My personal favorite is their chocolate pudding: I am not sure what chocolate they use (probably milk), but the result is a delicious pudding with chocolate flavor emerging at any bite. Check: 35 RMB (5 USD).

Where in Shanghai: 62 Xinhua Lu, by Panyu Lu.

2. Yuzu and chocolate cake from Baker & Spice

Baker & Spice is a popular bakery and cafe chain in Shanghai. All of their cakes are pretty good, but the yuzu and chocolate cake is a stunner. The yuzu offers a nice counterbalance to the chocolate natural bitterness. Check: 35 RMB (5 USD).

Where in Shanghai: 195 Anfu Rd, Xuhui and many more locations.

3. Valrhona chocolate cake from 325 Roof

Valrhona is a French premium chocolate manufacturer and is a premium ingredient for pastry. Roof 325, the rooftop restaurant perched on top of the Shanghai Museum, has an outstanding cake made from Valrhona chocolate. One of the interesting things is that the cake has two layers with two distinct textures. The restaurant location on top of what used to be the Race Club House is another highlight. Check: 68 RMB (around 10 USD).

Where in Shanghai: Shanghai History Museum, 5/F, 325 Nanjing Xi Lu

Cafes and food in Hayashi Department Store, Tainan

Hayashi Department Store is a characteristic five-story retail venue originally opened in 1932 in Tainan during Japanese rule. After decades of abandonment, it was refurbished and reopened in 2014. It is today a big touristic attraction in Tainan. The Japanese influence on the building is apparent; notably there is a restored Shinto shrine on the rooftop.

The visit

The building has such an old-times charm that I keep visiting it every time I am in Tainan, even if I am not particularly interested in the merchandising they sell (even if it includes many quality products from local makers).

Food can be found on the first (ground) floor and in two cafes, on the fourth and fifth floor. Let’s start from the top (the elevator stops only on the ground floor and the fifth floor by the way).

The fifth floor cafeteria

The fifth floor cafeteria (“Delicious Tainan”) is a good place where to relax and have a light meal.

The menu is based on Chinese comfort food, sweet soups, and milk tea.

I tried their Dan Zai noodles (a specialty from Tainan) and I found them bland as compared to the one that I had in another traditional restaurant.

On the other hand, their cold tofu pudding with red beans and peanuts was very good and refreshing. On the menu, they have several variations of this dish.

I spent 235 NTD (7.75 USD) for two sets of noodles and two bowls of tofu (I was with a friend). Very affordable.

The fourth floor cafe

On the fourth floor (one level down) there is the namesake Hayashi cafe mostly catering to cakes, smoothies, tea, and coffee.

I had their chocolate smoothie that was excellent, even if it probably shortened my lifespan.

It cost 180 NTD (6 USD). In this cafe prices are a higher than upstairs.

The first floor shopping area

The first floor of the Department Store is dedicated to cakes and traditional snacks (it is called Tainan Feast, 台南好客廳). These make very welcomed gifts.

One of the signature snacks was the Hayashi’s sweet cake (filled with red beans) made in a century-old bakery in Tainan. Each cake bears the Hayashi seal (back in the day, this was a big innovation). They were popular with women after giving birth, as a dietary supplement.

Brown sugar maltose crackers sandwiches were recommended as a complement for tea time.

Pineapple cake (another classic from Taiwan) was available in many formats.

The most affordable snack was this popped rice crispy cakes made by a bakery in Tainan with natural ingredients: one, individually packaged, could be bought for 40 NTD (a little over 1 USD).

This is just a small selection of the goods available that include mango cakes, dried fruit, and teas.

Where in Tainan:
No. 63, Section 2, Zhongyi Road, West Central District.
Website: http://www.hayashi.com.tw.

The Marvelous Space is in Tainan

In Tainan there is a marvelous space. It is a cafe, cum art gallery, cum event hall, and much more. I had the pleasure to visit it upon a friend’s invitation. It was supposed to be a simple coffee meeting, but it turned out to be marvelously more.

The visit

As I noticed for other nice cafes in Tainan, The Marvelous Space is hidden in a non-descript building. The entrance is on a side alley. You can see the sign above in Chinese (飛石樓). It is perched on the 8th floor.

Entering the shop, you are welcomed in a very spacious room.

A massive wooden table extends for most of the room. What is really impressive is that every corner of the space is dotted by artworks: prints, paintings, statues, furniture. Every single piece has a story.

The baristas have been training for years with a famous coffee master from Taipei and my friend immensely enjoyed his coffee. I had an equally satisfying Oolong tea with cookies.

Some of the teas, tea-ware, and even some of the artworks in the shop are for sale.

The owner kindly walked me and my friend around his studio showing his collection of rare prints and paintings from Zao Wou-Ki, a renown contemporary Chinese-French painter (he passed away in 2013). He had specimens both from his early “Paul Klee” phase and his subsequent more abstract period.

But they also had some more affordable design objects.

In the adjacent room, there is a space sometimes used for events and equipped with a state of the art audio system.

The check

I was kindly treated to this coffee, so I cannot comment on prices. But quality come at a price.

The Marvelous Space is a testament of the well-developed aesthetic sense you can find in Taiwan where tasting an outstanding coffee or tea surrounded by the beauty of hand-picked artwork is not out of the realm of possibilities.

Where in Tainan:
8F, No. 83, Section 2, Yongfu Road.
In Chinese: 台南市中西區永福路二段83號8樓.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/themarvelousspace/.

An izakaya in Tainan where to enjoy great donburi dishes

In Taiwan you can find great Japanese food. In some cases even better than in Japan (see here , here, and here if you do not believe me). So do not judge me negatively if I dined in a Japanese restaurant in Tainan. I was pointed to the place by a friend that had enjoyed lunch in the restaurant and had taken some persuasive pictures. I was not disappointed.

The visit

I went to the restaurant on a Sunday evening. It only has a Chinese name (丼丼丼). Also the menu was only in Chinese, but profusely illustrated, so ordering was not a problem.

It is not a large eatery. They have bar chairs (but comfortable) and at peak hours they might have some queuing.

On the menu they indicate that the rice used is same that is exported to Japan for imperial consumption. The rice is full bodied and firm.

I was offered complimentary edamame.

Their top dish is the donburi (rice bowl with seafood). They have several variations of this dish. I went for the one with mixed seafood. Every single piece of seafood was fresh and tasty: eel, prawns, salmon roe, scallop, ark shell, prawns, sea urchin, squid. The eel was not soaked in the traditional brown sauce, but its flavor was left genuine. It was glorious.

I also had their miso soup that came with a mind-blowing scallop.

Finally I had one of their sashimi on seaweed, with scallop and sea urchin.

The check

My final check was 730 NTD (24 USD). For this quality and quantity of seafood was a pretty good price. I can understand why this izakaya seems to be quite popular on social media.

Where in Tainan:
10 Minsheng Road, Western and Central District.
In Chinese: 中西區民生路一段10號.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DONNBURI (well played… since “donburi” was not available they used the name “donNburi”).

Room A: a crossover between a cafe and a library in Tainan

Room A was introduced to me by a friend during a weekend visit to Tainan in October 2019. Hidden on the third floor of a non-descript building, it was a pleasant surprise. It is a paradise for a bookworm. The owner used to run a second-hand bookstore.

The visit

The cafe shares the entrance with a bed and breakfast.

From the sign, my understanding is that from 10am to 1pm the place operates as a breakfast cafe. Then from 1pm onwards the format changes.

On the door, a sign says “Have a seat & read a book”. It sounds like a plan.

The place has a vintage feeling and, in my opinion, it is beautiful. On one side there is the kitchen behind a big counter and books are everywhere. Books can be taken and read freely. I think the book inventory is all in Chinese. I indulged on a photography magazine.

It was quite busy. And people were really reading books. Obviously, no talking! Customers were advised to keep quiet. I whispered with my friend over lunch.

A number of dishes are available through the day.

I had a burger with egg and bacon.

My friend had a chicken sandwich. In both cases, the bread was nicely toasted and there were no dripping sauces. The food was good and healthy.

Drinks, tea and coffee were included in the usage fee (see below).

They also have a lovely terrace.

The check

The food cost 180 NTD (6 USD).

In addition to the food, there is a usage fee: 1 NTD for every minute inside the cafe. This is an interesting business model. One hour would cost you 60 NTD (arund 2 USD) that is very reasonable if you consider that you can enjoy complimentary coffee and tea. I do not have the final receipt as it was taken care by my friend.

I really liked the place and the format. If I was living in Tainan I would be a regular. I like to think of it as the Tainan’s answer to Starbucks.

Where in Tainan:
3F, 21 Kangle Street.
In Chinese: 中西區康樂街21號3F.
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/on.RoomA/.

The Chef Table in Tainan

I always like restaurants that try to innovate traditional dishes in a tasteful manner. Chef Table Food & Wine in Tainan falls into this category. Chef James proposes Western-inspired dishes using local ingredients and Chinese techniques.

The visit

The restaurant is located on the second floor of the stylish Changyu Hotel.

I arrived for a late lunch on a Saturday. I had reserved a table communicating on the Facebook page of the restaurant. Answers were instantaneous! I later learnt that the page is managed by the chef himself. I was very hungry.

My first dish was a “shrimp brulee egg” with seaweed and sweet and sour sauce. It was a nice mix of flavors, a nice variation on the theme of seafood omelettes popular in Taiwan.

The restaurant has a number of items that can be ordered from the grill. I had scallops and the local milk fish. The milk fish lived up to its reputation and it was incredibly juicy. Portions are small, so you can order several items. Vegetables were included. I wish I had ordered more.

I also had the deep-fried soft shell crab with mustard mayo that did not let me down.

Another interesting dish was the cauliflower with a poached egg and dry shrimps.

Finally, I had their quesadilla that came with a very Chinese filling: roast duck and cheese.

The check

For this Lucullus-grade lunch I spent 1017 NTD (33.50 USD). It could have been enough for two people. I enjoyed every single dish. I think The Chef Table is a great place where to divert from local food and experiencing Western dishes reinterpreted with local ingredients.

Where in Tainan:
2f, No. 89, Section 1, Beimen Road, West Central District.
In Chinese: 台南市中西區北門路一段89號2樓.
Visit the Facebook page for up to date menu.

Possibly the best ice cream in Macau: Lemoncello Gelato

Honestly, this is the only ice cream I tried in Macau. It is hailed as the best by many websites and it is even recommended by the Michelin Guide. I did like it.

The visit

I visited the main shop of Lemoncello Gelato (sometimes referred as Lemon Cello) on a Sunday evening. It is near Cathedral Square and Senate Square. Other outlets are in the ground floor of Lisboa Tower and in Taipa village.

They have a nice spread of flavors that are made fresh daily.

I tried their Ferrero Rocher flavor that was outstanding. It really tasted like the Italian chocolate candy. My friend had a sweet grapefruit that was also very good.

I am not sure this ice cream can qualify as gelato, but it is thoughtfully made.

This is the story… in Chinese.

The check

Two flavors cup or cone cost 40 MOP (5 USD). Honest.

Where in Macau:
6 Tv. do Bpo (Main shop).

Macanese soul food at Riquexó

Local Macanese dishes are usually found in street stalls in Macau. Riquexó offers a comfortable place where to try a lot of them in a family-run restaurant and this was the reason of my visit.

The visit

I and a friend reached the restaurant on a Sunday evening at around 7pm and we got one of the last tables. By the time we finished there were people queuing. My assessment was that most of the customers were locals.

We were a bit surprised by the interior. It was different from pictures seen online. In recent times, It must have undergone a renovation that made it much more modern, but also lost some of its charm as a mom and pop shop.

We had the soup of the day (vegetables and meat stock).

My friend had a feijoada, a dish originally from Portugal, with kidney beans, carrots, shallots and pig skin. It was served with rice.

I went for more of a softball: a local white fish, grilled and with garlic and oil. It was really good.

We also had their chocolate pudding. It was really a jelly, not particularly good as the chocolate flavor was almost absent. (We should have ordered their more traditional desserts.)

A waiter (I suppose from the family of the owners) noticed that we did not finish it and in the end she took it off from the bill. Considering the large number of customers, this small gesture speaks highly of their customer care.

They also sell food for take-away.

The check

We spent around 100 MOP per person (12 USD) including a bottle of water. A very affordable way to try local specialties.

Where in Macau:
Songbo Village, 69 Av. de Sidónio Pais.

Delicious baby oyster noodles from San Mou I Kuong Fok Chiu

I found this noodle shop (cafe de fita in Portuguese) almost by accident and I tried one of the best dishes of my October 2019 Macau trip.

The visit

The shop is a typical old-school noodle cafe. It was one of the few establishments open for breakfast in the neighborhood.

The interior was simple.

They had an English menu and also a menu with some pictures, so ordering was not a problem. You can choose between normal noodles and thin ones and you can customize your bowl with a number of toppings.

Their most famous noodle dish is with baby oysters. I added crab balls.

Well, the oysters were just exquisite. Salty, meaty, and fresh. The crab balls were not particularly tasty, but who care… did I tell you that the oysters were so good?

Some spicy condiments were available.

The check

I spent 40 MOP for my noodles (5 USD). My friend took the same oyster noodles with no crab balls for 10 MOP less. This was incredible value for money considering the generous amount of oysters in the soup. Highly recommended.

Where in Macau:
45 Rua de Bruxelas.
(Another shop is located at 149 Rua de Coimbra, Taipa.)

Lord Stow’s vs. Margaret’s: The real story of Macau’s egg tarts

The egg tart is a Portuguese cake that originated in the 1800s and is very popular in Macau. However, the history of the current iteration of the egg tarts in Macau is quite twisted. It is not a direct import from Portugal as you might expect given the Portuguese legacy in the former colony.

Based on the pasteis de nata from Portugal, the tarts in their current form were introduced to Macau by a British pharmacist-turned-baker, Andrew Stow in the late 1980s. After tasting the tarts in Portugal, Stow returned to Macau and started experimenting with the recipe to create his own ‘Macau’ version. He opened his first bakery in 1989. He passed away in 2006, but his bakery continues to bake over 10,000 tarts a day. BBC wrote a feature about him. The business is now managed by the sister and the daughter.

Adding twist to the twist, after their separation, his wife Margaret Wong opened her own bakery and started to compete with the ex-husband.

Lord Stow’s Bakery and Margaret’s Cafe e Nata are the two most famous places where to find egg tarts in Macau today, but other local bakeries have them as well. The Hong Kong version, by the way, is quite different and has a different story.

Lord Stow’s Bakery

Lord Stow’s Bakery original shop is located in Coloane village, in the Southern part of Macau.

I bought a set of six for 50 MOP (a little over 6 USD). The individual price was 10 MOP. Unfortunately the bakery in Coloane has no place where to seat. The cakes are best tasted hot. They were firm and the cream brulee cover added flavor to the mix.

Their handmade chocolate pie was another item that attracted my attention, but I did not try it.

They have several outlets in Macau, including some cafes: check their web site for addresses. Finally, two small franchisees are present in Osaka (Dotobori) and in Manila.

Margaret’s Café e Nata

Margaret’s cafe is located near the central Senate Square (17B R. do Cmte. Mata e Oliveira). During the weekend expect long queues. I visited it on a Monday morning and there was no waiting time. They also have some benches in front of the store that is nice.

They have sandwiches and drinks as well. Right in front of the entrance there is a DYI station where to choose the ingredients for a sandwich. But it did not look particularly attractive.

Frankly, the egg tart was pretty similar to Lord Stow’s. Probably the pastry was more flaky and the cream had a stronger flavor. But I would not queue for it.

One tart was 10 MOP (1.24 USD), the standard price around town. Also tried a pizza that was forgettable.