Tag: Noodles

Dining at Yabu Soba, one of Tokyo’s soba temples

Kanda is home of two of the oldest and most respected traditional soba restaurants in Tokyo: Matsuya and Yabu Soba. In December 2019 I was able to get in at Yabu Soba (my attempts at Matsuya sadly failed because every time I was in the area the queue was just too long).

The visit

I guess the trick was arriving quite late (past 2pm) on a weekday, but there was no queue.

The restaurant is located in traditional building. The shop dates back to the XIX century and the name literally means “shop in the bush”, a reference to the bamboo plants that used to be found in the area. The original building was destroyed during the Kanto Earthquake of 1923, but the current building was rebuilt just a few years later and it serves as a reminder of the old Tokyo.

I ordered their standard soba noodles and a tempura mix as a side. The noodles in the hot tsuyu sauce (made out of soya sauce, konbu, and fish flakes) were exquisite. They also have udon and cold soba and dishes combining noodles with other ingredients (the soba with duck slices was quite attractive).

Their noodles are of course handmade using a ration between soba flour and normal flour of ten to one and they claim to source the highest quality soba from around Japan.

One of the feature of this restaurant is that you get a pot of soba-yu, which is the water used to cook the noodles. You are recommended to add it to the broth when it runs low. I tried it and I what I got was a tasty soup.

The tempura was probably not the most exciting side dishes (oysters and anago were available!), but it is such a traditional pair for the soba noodles that I obliged. The mix carried broccoli, shunjiku, smelt fish, lotus root (stuffed with minced chicken), sweet potato, and an oyster. Simple, but every piece was carefully fried and made out of quality ingredients. Definetely I like the side dishes in these restaurants.

The check

The check was 2,470 yen (23 USD). The soba was just 825 yen. Traditional, touristy, but still a must-go for soba.

Where in Tokyo:
2-10 Kanda-awaji-cho, Chiyoda-ku.
In Japanese: 〒101-0063 東京都千代田区神田淡路町2-10.

Soba breakfast in Ningyocho

This visit was accidental, I was just waking by early in the morning and the place was open (in fact, one of the few places open… it starts business at 6.15am and I was in the area at around 9am on a weekend). It does not have an English name, in Japanese it is called 福そば 立ち食い.

The visit

I entered and selected a dish from the vending machine (like in ramen restaurants you pay and get a ticket to hand to the cook). Everything was in Japanese, so it was pretty much random.

It turned out it was pretty much the standard soba dish that entitled me to select a tempura piece from the counter. I selected the pinkish one… I think it was some kind of small shrimps, but I need to admit that am not sure…

This was the result. A bowl of thin soba noodles with a soft-boiled egg and a thick broth. It was delicious. I ate it along with the other customers standing in front of the counter. It was 5 minutes, but a very tasty start of the day.

The check

The dish cost me a mere 490 yen (around 4 USD). I am pretty sure the soba was handmade.

Where in Tokyo:
1 Chome-16-3 Nihonbashiningyocho, Chuo City.
In Japanese: 〒103-0013 東京都中央区日本橋人形町１丁目１６−3 (Google Map link).

Enjoying Udon in a re-converted redbrick storehouse: Kamachiku

Hailed by some as one of the most beautiful restaurants in Tokyo, Kamachiku Nezu is a eatery specializing in handmade udon (the thick Japanese noodles) located in a redbrick building that used to be a merchant’s storehouse. The restaurant is originally from Osaka.

The visit

The restaurant is located in a quiet residential street in Nezu, one of the neighborhoods that make up shitamachi, Tokyo’s old downtown. It is an interesting area that is also known as YANESEN (Yanaka, Nezu, Sendagi) and used to be a place for writers and artists during the Meiji era.

I reached the restaurant on a weekday for lunch. It was busy but they were able to accommodate me in the large communal table in the main dining room inside a glass-enclosed extension between the redbrick building and the garden. I was handed a wooden stick with a number to be later presented to get my check.

From the table I could see the entrance to the storehouse proper that now hosts another dining room with Japanese low seating.

Behind me, a large glass window let me peek inside the beautifully curated garden. The rest of the structure should be a residence for senior citizens.

I ordered their specialty: handmade kamaage-udon and two side dishes. The menu was in English and they also had zaru udon (cold noodles). First they handed me the condiments: spring onion, spices in the characteristic wooden container, radish, and  age-dama (fried tempura batter, looks like popped rice).

Then the udon came in their hot cooking water and they poured dashi tsuyu (the udon dipping sauce) in another bowl.

I took the hint from the other customers, and I would transfer a portion of noodles from the big bowl into the small bowl with the sauce. Then eat. I am not a fan of udon, but be it the right temperature (on an end of December day) or the chewy texture they were fully satisfying.

The list of side dishes was amazing. I ended up choosing their signature handmade satsuma-age, a Japanese deep-fried fishcake served with soy sauce. It was indeed tasty and with a nice texture.

A second side dish was a bit disappointing. It was their Patagonian toothfish marinated in miso and grilled (ginmutsu saikyo misoyaki). It was quite flaky and not really meaty. But there were so many side dishes to choose from… I noticed that around me goma-dōfu (tofu-like cubes of creamed sesame) were particularly popular.

The check

The final check was 2,530 yen (the udon dish was 850 yen plus tax) or 23.5 USD. I fully enjoyed the dining experience in this restaurant and I would go back just to sample more of their side dishes.

Where in Tokyo:
2-14-18 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku.
In Japanese: 東京都文京区根津2-14-18.
Website: http://kamachiku.com/top_en/.

Memorable oyster soba noodles at Hosokawa, Tokyo

Hosokawa (from the name of the chef/owner) is a small soba restaurant nearby the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Its artisan soba are highly appreciated by locals and there is usually a queue.

The visit

Arriving at noon was not a good idea… the queue outside the sliding door was daunting. So I went back to the Edo museum, visited one more exhibit, and went back to the restaurant. Lunch rush time was over but there were still customers waiting outside, but eventually we all made it inside.

Inside I was seated at one of the four communal tables of polished hardwood. The room, without fancy decorations, felt like a refectory in a monastery. From inside the plants in front of the windows gave the impression to look at a garden, but of course it was just a side street.

I was handed the menu with English translation and I went for the oyster soba. Oysters are a customary condiment for soba noodles during the winter (it was December 2019).

Customers line up for the artisan soba, but to me the highlight of the dish were the huge and juicy oysters that perfectly complemented the broth and the noodles.

Soba restaurants usually have on the menu tasty side dishes and this establishment was not an exception. From the list of sides, I had a marinated anago (freshwater eel) that was a delicious side.

The check

I paid 2,800 yen for my dishes. Soba is more expensive than ramen and oysters and anago added up. But definitely wort it.

Where in Tokyo:
1-6-5 Kamezawa, Sumida-ku.
In Japanese: 東京都墨田区横網2-5-14.
Website: https://www.edosoba-hosokawa.jp/.

Foie gras noodles at Chuuka Soba Manchiken

Chuuka Soba Manchiken (中華そば 満鶏軒) is a ramen shop that opened in April of 2018. The owner also operates a main shop, Madai Ramen Mengyo, just across the street. However this “branch” specializing in noodles with duck, has taken over. I am not a fan of noodles, but I was attracted by this establishment after reading a very good review here.

The visit

I went to the restaurant on an evening during my December 2019 trip to Tokyo.

The shop is located at the corner of an intersection, with a very visible store-front marked by a seabream.

As customary for ramen shop, the process involved buying a ticket of my chosen dish from a vending machine. The signs were only in Japanese, but I knew what to order and I recognized the right ticket through the price.

I sat at the counter and handed my ticket.

My choice was for their abura soba with duck, egg, and a sizable piece of foie gras. Abura soba is a dish in which the noodles are placed on a bed of condensed soup and oil. All the ingredients in the bowl were full of flavor dominated by the duck oils. The seared foie gras was excellent and the duck meat was even better, with big, thick, juicy slices. Spring onions and grated radish completed the dish. I would have just wanted a tiny bit more of soup on the bottom.

At the end of the meal I handed the bowl back and I left. It was not a busy evening, but I have read reports of queues, especially when the chef proposes seasonal items. It opens at 11am (closed on Mondays).

The check

This was their most expensive dish priced 1,200 yen (11 USD). On the machine the price was modified with a pencil… it used to be 1,100. But still worth every penny.

Where in Tokyo:
2 Chome-5-3 Kotobashi, Sumida City.
In Japanese: 〒130-0022 東京都墨田区江東橋２丁目５−3.

The perfect spot for a Thai breakfast in Nimman: Kuakai Nimman

Kuakai Nimman is a traditional diner in Nimman famour for its khua gai, a type of fried rice noodles with chicken that I personally find perfect for breakfast. Kuakai Nimman opens at 9am, so it is the perfect place for an inexpensive and authentic Thai meal to start the day.

The visit

The restaurant is located quite centrally in Nimman area. I went before 11am and there was no problem finding a seat, even if it was still a busy time in Chiang Mai.

At the entrance they display a banner with their Bib Gourmand status achieved in the Thailand 2020 Michelin Guide.

The interior is well kept with some cheeky details on the walls.

The noodles were of the wide variety. The chicken bites were good and I believe some egg was used to keep everything together. It was a perfect savory dish to start the day.

I supplemented it with a roti.

And a Thai iced tea.

The check

My breakfast cost me 120 THB (less than 4 USD). I am sure that you could find the same dish a bit cheaper. But for a nice seat-down meal in Nimman, the value was unbeatable.

Where in Chiang Mai:
9 Sai Nam Phueng Alley, Tambon Su Thep, Mueang Chiang Mai.

Beyond Khao Soi: Michelin-recommended noodles in Chiang Mai

Khao Soi is Chiang Mai’s signature noodles. I have reviewed several joints. But there are also other types of noodle shops in town. In this review I will share my experience with those included in Thailand 2020 Michelin Guide. One is really superb.

Guay Jub Chang Moi Tat Mai

99/11-12 Chang Moi Tat Mai Road, Mueang Chiang Mai.

Guay Jub Chang Moi Tat Mai occupies a fairly large diner in a backstreet among hardware stores. You have a choice of fillings for the noodles. I chose the Northern Sausage (that came in the plain version) and tofu. The friendly owner was sorry that the crispy pork belly was finished (it must be their best seller). What impressed me was the herbal flavor of the soup that for a moment reminded me of a Vietnamese pho. Price: 60 THB (less than 2 USD).

Rote Yiam Beef Noodles

164/4 Chang Khlan Road, Mueang Chiang Mai.

This diner, located almost across the Shangri-La hotel, claims to serve top quality beef. You can choose a bowl with one topping or mix several. They have beef balls, sliced beef, stewed beef, and more exotic parts such as tendon, liver, heart, tongue, spleen, and intestine. Then you can choose the type of noodle: flat rice noodle, thin, or vermicelli. I had a bowl with vermicelli rice noodles with beef balls and stewed beef. I was not particularly impressed. Price from 50 to 100 THB depending on size and number of toppings.

Thana Ocha

Thana Ocha is a diner serving Hakka-style noodles and other Chinese dishes. The bowl comes with a cornucopia of ingredients: fried wonton, fish balls, sausage, blood. Honestly, I could not finish them… many things did not click with my Western palate. I also had the spring rolls, very fresh and juicy. For the two dishes I spent 90 THB (less than 3 USD).

Sanpakoi Kanomjeen

Soi Thasatoi, Mueang Chiang Mai.

Sanpakoi Kanomjeen is a popular stall in the food court of a local market. Open only after 3pm till late, it is the star of the place. Lines will form often. It serves fermented vermicelli noodles with various curries and fillings. I tried the vegetarian one and the bowl with chicken and vegetables (the chicken was not great but the zucchini were great). They have a self-service station where you can add herbs, vegetables, and other condiments at your leisure. Overall quite good. A bowl was 40 THB.

Guay Tiew Pet Tun Saraphi

80 Moo 3, Liap Thang Rotfai Road, Saraphi.

This is a road side diner 15 kilometers from Chiang Mai’s Old City serving duck noodles. This was my favorite. The duck meat was exquisitely stewed and seasoned and the soup was thick and flavorful. Worth the detour, even if the car to go and come back cost me almost 20 times the bowl of noodles (40 THB), a personal record.

Racharos

Closed.

Racharos used to be a DIY noodle shop in Nimman. You could choose among a long list of ingredients, including wagyu beef. It was out of business during my time in Chiang Mai in early 2020, but the store had not been replaced yet.

Chiang Mai’s blue noodles: Anchan Noodle

Chiang Mai has a noodle joint famous for its blue noodles (or are they purple??). It is called Anchan that means “blue” in Thai (at least I am being told so) and the color comes from butterfly pea flowers’ juice (by the way, butterfly pea flowers are a popular element in Northern Thai cuisine from what I have seen and the juice is pretty common in restaurants around Chiang Mai.

The visit

The shop is located in relatively calm street in Nimman area.

I guess this must be the most coveted parking spot in front of the restaurant.

There is a large air-conditioned dining room with stools, but overall it is comfortable.

For some reason they also sell unrelated paraphernalia.

This I guess was an attempt to make the place more Instagram worthy.

But let’s get down to business: the noodles. The one page menu has the namesake blue noodles in all possible variations. The signature dish is noodles with pork meat.

I had the version with tom yum (hot and sour) soup. The soup was not great (maybe too sweet), but the noodles and all the content were very good. Among other things there was a pork ball and some crispy pork (in this restaurant they only seem to use pork meat).

Actually, the crispy pork belly was so good that I also ordered an additional dish with it and some rice (including blue rice of course).

The check

For the two dishes I spent 150 THB (4.80 USD), 100 for the noodles and a beverage, other 50 for the pork belly. It is a popular place, but they maintained their prices very affordable. It is nice to have such a nice meal at an affordable price sometimes.

I would recommend to try it and not to miss the crispy pork belly if it is your thing.

Where in Chiang Mai:
19 1 Siri Mangkalajarn Rd.

Michelin-recommended khao soi in Chiang Mai

In 2019 the Thailand Michelin Guide (2020 edition) covered Chiang Mai for the first time listing 50 restaurants either as “tables” (a generic good meal) or “Bib Gourmands” (great value, up to 1000 THB). There were no stars. Four of them were joints specializing in Khao Soi, the quintessential Northern curry noodles. I visited them between January and February 2020. Here’s my take. (I will not bother to distinguish between “tables” and “Bib Gourmands” since the distinction as far as Chiang Mai is concerned makes little sense).

The gentrified one: Khao Soi Nimman

Nimman is the posh area of Chiang Mai, a sort of gentrified entertainment district, so no surprise that the eponymous Khao Soi Nimman offers a sanitized version of a classic khao soi diner.

One upside is the menu offering the noodles with a variety of toppings not normally available (the big ones are usually chicken, beef, and pork). I had one with a Northern Thai sausage. The sausage was really good, but the curry sauce and the noodles were just bland. The restaurant also offers other dishes; the Thai omelette with minced pork I tried was fluffy and a very good specimen of this ubiquitous Thai dish.

This khao soi was 105 THB (3.30 USD). Still cheap, but almost twice as much the price in conventional joints.

Address in Chiang Mai: 22 Nimmana Haeminda Rd Lane 7.

The thick one: Khao Soi Mae Manee

Khao Soi Mae Manee is located a few kilometers North of the Old City. It is a 10 minute drive and it is totally worth.

It is located in a shack in the middle of a residential area. It is clearly a family-run eatery. In my visits I could identify both locals and tourists. Their bowls come in normal and big size (in the picture the normal size is light blue and the big one is white).

Their broth is very thick and delicious. Also the beef and the chicken are super-tender. The big bowl carries more meat. You can choose among various meats, including pork intestine and sausage. In my big bowl I mixed beef and chicken. I also appreciated the generous amount of pickles (most people put them in the bowl, I like them as a separate snack).

A standard bowl with one meat cost just 40/50 THB, the big one with two meats was 120 THB.

Address in Chiang Mai: 18 Chotana Rd, Chang Phueak.

The temple one: Khao Soi Samoe Chai

Khao Soi Samoe Chai (sometimes spelled Samer Jai) is located next to Wat Fa Ham (if you have trouble finding it on the map, just look up for Fa Ham or Faham temple). It is a large restaurant and offers a lot of dishes besides khao soi.

I had the chicken khao soi and I was a bit disappointed. The chicken leg was not as tender as in other joints and the curry soup was less tasty. One characteristic of this khao soi was the relatively thick fried noodles (fried noodles are always on top of a khao soi bowl by the way).

I also tried other dishes, including grilled chicken, and I was not particularly happy (it came half-cold). Also, their keeping the food on display in the kiosks throughout the restaurant does not seem very hygienic.

The khao soi is 50-60 THB.

Address in Chiang Mai: 391 Moo 2, Charoenrat Road.

The balanced one: Khao Soi Lambduan

Also located on Charoenrat Road, not far away from Khao Soi Samoe Chai, Khai Soi Lambduan came up in some discussions with locals apart than from the Michelin Guide. It occupies a fairly large shack without any English sign; they have a handy picture menu with English translation.

The best feature of this Khao Soi was the drumtick: a falling-off-the-bone type of drumstick that was really satisfying. It appears that they cook different meats in separate pots with the sauce and this helps. Overall, it was a well-balanced soup, not too spicy.

The Khao Soi is priced 50-60 THB.

Address in Chiang Mai: 352/22 Charoenrat Road.

Also read my comparison between a luxury khao soi and a street khao soi.

Cafes and food in Hayashi Department Store, Tainan

Hayashi Department Store is a characteristic five-story retail venue originally opened in 1932 in Tainan during Japanese rule. After decades of abandonment, it was refurbished and reopened in 2014. It is today a big touristic attraction in Tainan. The Japanese influence on the building is apparent; notably there is a restored Shinto shrine on the rooftop.

The visit

The building has such an old-times charm that I keep visiting it every time I am in Tainan, even if I am not particularly interested in the merchandising they sell (even if it includes many quality products from local makers).

Food can be found on the first (ground) floor and in two cafes, on the fourth and fifth floor. Let’s start from the top (the elevator stops only on the ground floor and the fifth floor by the way).

The fifth floor cafeteria

The fifth floor cafeteria (“Delicious Tainan”) is a good place where to relax and have a light meal.

The menu is based on Chinese comfort food, sweet soups, and milk tea.

I tried their Dan Zai noodles (a specialty from Tainan) and I found them bland as compared to the one that I had in another traditional restaurant.

On the other hand, their cold tofu pudding with red beans and peanuts was very good and refreshing. On the menu, they have several variations of this dish.

I spent 235 NTD (7.75 USD) for two sets of noodles and two bowls of tofu (I was with a friend). Very affordable.

The fourth floor cafe

On the fourth floor (one level down) there is the namesake Hayashi cafe mostly catering to cakes, smoothies, tea, and coffee.

I had their chocolate smoothie that was excellent, even if it probably shortened my lifespan.

It cost 180 NTD (6 USD). In this cafe prices are a higher than upstairs.

The first floor shopping area

The first floor of the Department Store is dedicated to cakes and traditional snacks (it is called Tainan Feast, 台南好客廳). These make very welcomed gifts.

One of the signature snacks was the Hayashi’s sweet cake (filled with red beans) made in a century-old bakery in Tainan. Each cake bears the Hayashi seal (back in the day, this was a big innovation). They were popular with women after giving birth, as a dietary supplement.

Brown sugar maltose crackers sandwiches were recommended as a complement for tea time.

Pineapple cake (another classic from Taiwan) was available in many formats.

The most affordable snack was this popped rice crispy cakes made by a bakery in Tainan with natural ingredients: one, individually packaged, could be bought for 40 NTD (a little over 1 USD).

This is just a small selection of the goods available that include mango cakes, dried fruit, and teas.

Where in Tainan:
No. 63, Section 2, Zhongyi Road, West Central District.
Website: http://www.hayashi.com.tw.