gelato – Check Please!

Chiang Mai’s artisan gelato: The fabulous Jenny’s Ice Cream

Opened back in September 2019, Jenny’s Ice Cream has been an instant hit. Be it the charisma of the owner Jenny Sun or just the original and tasty flavors, this gelato parlor is a step ahead of the competition (and sadly in Chiang Mai there is a lot of ice cream, but not that good, certainly not real gelato).

The visit

I followed the recommendation of a local former ice cream maker and tried the place that defines itself Italian artisan gelato with Thai twist and is located close to the popular Tha Phae Gate.

It was a narrow and long space, partially shared with another company. I visited it in February 2020. I am aware that shortly after it undertook a renovation.

The centerpiece of the shop was the counter with twelve flavors (the limited number is a good sign of an artisan process behind). Along with classics like vanilla and chocolate (and the omnipresent matcha), there were a number of flavors based on Thai ingredients like coconut lemongrass, guava, and mango.

I went for one of their signature flavors, Thai Jasmine, and a classic strawberry. The flavors were very distinct. Especially the jasmine flavor really came out. It was less creamy than other artisan gelato I am accustomed to, but still excellent.

The almond cones should not be missed. Just have multiple scoops nicely stacked on a cone for an Instagram picture.

The check

Two scoops were 240 THB (around 7.5 USD). As a comparison, at 7 Senses gelato two scoops (bigger than these) at that time cost 159 THB and at Seasons ice cream just 70 THB. Still, its unique take on artisan gelato may justify the premium.

Where in Chiang Mai:
47/2 Mun Mueang Rd, Phra Sing, Mueang Chiang Mai.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/jennysicecream.

Possibly the best ice cream in Macau: Lemoncello Gelato

Honestly, this is the only ice cream I tried in Macau. It is hailed as the best by many websites and it is even recommended by the Michelin Guide. I did like it.

The visit

I visited the main shop of Lemoncello Gelato (sometimes referred as Lemon Cello) on a Sunday evening. It is near Cathedral Square and Senate Square. Other outlets are in the ground floor of Lisboa Tower and in Taipa village.

They have a nice spread of flavors that are made fresh daily.

I tried their Ferrero Rocher flavor that was outstanding. It really tasted like the Italian chocolate candy. My friend had a sweet grapefruit that was also very good.

I am not sure this ice cream can qualify as gelato, but it is thoughtfully made.

This is the story… in Chinese.

The check

Two flavors cup or cone cost 40 MOP (5 USD). Honest.

Where in Macau:
6 Tv. do Bpo (Main shop).

Italian artisan gelato in Singapore: Alfero

When I learnt that in Singapore there was an Italian ice cream maker, I knew I had to check it out (I already have reviews about Italian gelato in Saigon, Seoul, Tokyo, Shanghai, Guangzhou)

The visit

Unfortunately at the time of my visit Alfero only operated a shop in a residential area off-the-beaten-path. Took me a while to get there and find the place in the courtyard of a residential complex.

Just across the gelato shop there was an Italian restaurant. I bet they were related.

I just ordered a scoop made from a flavor called “Bacio” (“kiss”). Bacio is an an Italian chocolate cookie with the same name (it is famous because it comes with a slip of paper with cheesy quotations about love and life). I must say that I was not particularly impressed, the flavor of the original cookie was hardly there. But this was just one scoop on a random day, so my comment is not necessarily representative of the whole offering.

The brownies also looked very good.

The check

One scoop was 5 SGD (3.60 USD).

I wound not recommend to make the journey just for the ice cream. But if you happen to be around in the area, check it out.

Where in Singapore:
81 Macpherson Ln, Shop #01-37 (look for the building below facing Macpherson street).
Website: www.alferogelato.com.

Gelato in Shanghai

After reviewing Gelato dal Cuore (still open, but I had the impression that quality went down and there are less flavors rotating) and Movo (not checked for a long time), it is time for a fresh selection of gelato parlors in Shanghai.

Bonus

In Ruijin 2 Road there is a gelato parlor that has become my favorite. Bonus claims to produce real gelato according to Italian methods. Not sure if it is from scratch, but they have some interesting flavors, such as cheese fig that was great with a scoop of chocolate.

35 RMB (5 USD) for two scoops. It is nice that they have a few bar chairs inside the shop, so in a hot day you can consume your gelato in a air-conditioned environment.

Address: 39 Ruijin Er Lu – 瑞金二路39号.

Il Buco

Il Buco (the hole) is just that, a window to the side of a bar, where to get Salvatore Naselli’s artisanal gelato.

Only 8 flavors are available at any given time.

40 RMB (5.80 USD) for two very generous scoops. Hazelnut and pistachio were excellent.

Address: 20-2 Donghu Lu – 瑞金二路39号.

De Medici

De Medici is located across the Waldorf Astoria, near the Bund, specifically near the intersection in front of the Gutzlaff Signal Tower.

I tried chocolate and hazelnut chocolate. It was just ok. I am pretty sure that their gelato is made with pre-mixed components. Two scoops were 35 RMB (5 USD), but smaller than the previous two parlors.

Address: 17 Yanan Dong Lu – 延安东路17号.

Luneurs Boulanger & Glacier

I also tried the ice cream (not really gelato) from Luneurs, a hipster French bakery opened by some of the staff that used to work for a popular French bakery called Farine that, until it closed amid a scandal, also featured a queue-conjuring ice cream.

I tried their raspberry/strawberry sorbet and their signature chocolate (with dried banana bits) and I really did not like it. Not creamy and low in flavor.

Two scoops for 35 RMB (5 USD) like most places, but it must be acknowledged that their scoop size is the largest among the parlors reviewed on this page.

Address: 381 Panyu Lu / 番禺路381号.

Artisan gelato in Guangzhou

One of the highlights of my January 2019 food weekend in Guangzhou was discovering an artisan gelato maker in a relative remote shopping mall. The shop is using Italian machines and making excellent ice cream leveraging on local ingredients.

The visit

I was taken to the gelato shop by a friend. It would have been virtually impossible to get there alone, as the shop only has a Chinese name and is not easily found on Google and other English-friendly portals.

The shop is located in an interesting shopping mall called Grand Tea Mall that features high-end teas from around China.

The shop has a nice sitting area outside in the middle of the shopping area.

Just looking at the seasonal flavor assortment I immediately got the impression of an artisan production. One of their feature is to always have on offer a few flavors based on tea.

We spoke to one of the owners and the main gelato maker that explained how all the ingredients were fresh and natural (made from scratch) and many phases of the production were even made by hand, producing small batches.

I had their tasting option that provided six medium scoops on cones. An excellent way to seriously sample their offering.

My selection included chocolate, ginger, and green tea.

Strawberry yogurt and two types of tea.

All flavors provided were very dense and provided clear-defined flavors.

They had Italian beverages from San Pellegrino too, in particular one of my favorite, Chinotto, a type of natural cola from Italy.

The check

The price point was very reasonable, with my feast costing just 65 RMB (or just below 10 USD).

I highly recommend this gelato shop that is well worth the trip from other parts of Guangzhou.

Where in Guangzhou:
You won’t find the address on the English web. My tip is the following:

Take the exit D at the Pazhou stop of metro line 8. The Grand Tea Mall is juts around the corner.

Or you can use the following address:
1000 Xingang E Rd, Haizhu Qu, Guangzhou
In Chinese: 广东省广州市海珠区新港东路1000号

Danish ice cream in Ho Chi Minh City: Osterberg

While not artisan gelato, Osterberg is an interesting departure from the international ice cream chains that dominate Ho Chi Minh City: it hails from Denmark and it is a family business. In Vietnam the business is managed by Cathrine, who makes all the recipes herself and has a background in Food Science from the University of Copenhagen. The ice cream is freshly made in Ho Chi Minh City with modern equipment.

The visit

In Ho Chi Minh City they have a small ice cream shop in District 2.

They offer a nice assortment of flavors inspired both by their Nordic origins and by the fresh ingredients available in Vietnam. This means flavors such as liquorice, elderflower, buckthorn and blackcurrant (recommended!) on the one side and red dragonfruit, soursop, jackfruit, and lychee on the other.

My personal favorite is their chocolate sorbet (in general I find their sorbets – basically ice cream without the milk – better than regular ice cream flavors). The chocolate flavor emerges so neatly.

I particularly like their ice-blended option: around two scoops of ice cream are blended with milk and ice: the resulting beverage has the right density for me and retains the original flavor.

UPDATE (July 2019): They discontinued the ice blend option for lack of demand. Travesty!

The check

A single scoop, like in the cup pictured in the previous section, is 55,000 VND (2,4 USD). The ice blend was 75,000 VND (3,2 USD).

If you are in district 2, Osterberg is an ice cream experience that I recommend (well, a lot less now that they discontinued the ice blend).

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
94 Xuan Thuy, District 2
Website: http://www.osterberg-ice.vn/
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/osterbergvn/

Ice cream in Hong Kong

Here’s my top picks for ice cream in Hong Kong.

Tre Italiani

Tre Italiani is a very nice ice cream parlor and cafe in Causewaybay, at 535 Jaffe Road (they also have other locations, check their website). It is creamy ice cream coming both in traditional and innovative flavors. A cup with two scoops is 65 HKD (8.30 USD). They also have coffee and chocolates. What I like about their shop in Causewaybay is that they have seats and tables for a more relaxed experience.

Oddies

Oddies’ claim to fame is their egglets filled with ice cream. They also have a selection of 12 daily flavors that they claim to produce according to artisan standards (not tried yet). In the picture above, for 69 HKD (8.80 USD) one of their signature eggete parfait (small size) that combines one of their egg waffles and soft serve ice cream, in this case with some nutella sauce. I wish the filling was creamier. Beside, a place to try. The place is quite small, they only have a few high chairs, so you will most likely eat it on the street. Oddies is on 45 Gough Street, Central (a bit uphill).

Venchi

Venchi is an Italian gourmet chocolate manufacturer based in Turin. In recent years they expanded internationally and also went into ice cream. Gianduia and cuor di cacao in the picture. Their chocolate flavors, in particular gianduia, should not be missed. They have three locations in Hong Kong: one in the mall Festive Walk, one on 44 Stanley street, Central, and one in Harbour City. 65 HKD (8.30 USD) for two flavors. They clearly also sell chocolate and do not have much space to sit inside.

Italian Gelato in Seoul: Zucca and G. Fassi

In every major Asian city I visit I try to see if I can find some Italian style ice cream (gelato). In Seoul I visited Zucca’s Artisan Gelato and I also came across the Asian outpost of a famous gelateria from Rome, G. Fassi.

Zucca’s Artisan Gelato

Located in Itaewon, the Seoul’s neighborhood famously bordering the massive American Military Base, Zucca’s Artisan Gelato now enjoys a fully gentrified surrounding with a lot of international eateries. Zucca in Italian means pumpkin, but in this case is just the family name of the owner.

The space occupied by Zucca’s is mostly used up by the counter, but there are a few seats. They also serve Italian coffee and a few other desserts such as tiramisu cake.

As the name suggests, they should make their gelato according to the Italian tradition.

I had two scoops, chocolate and crushed figs. I found them excellent with actual pieces of caramelized figs.

Two scoops cost me 5,500 WON (or 4.85 USD), a good price as compared to other Asian locations.

Where in Seoul:
129-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (just a short walk from Itaewon metro station)

G. Fassi

Heralded as the oldest gelateria in Rome (dating back to 1880) the Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi is an institution in the Italian capital and they now have affiliated shops in Los Angeles and Seoul.

I came across their kiosk in the food court of one of the branches of Kyobo bookstore near Gwanghwamun Station (actually, you can get to the food court by taking exit 4 from this metro station).

I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of original flavors and in the end I opted for chocolate and black sesame.

The two scoops, that were meticulously weighted by the staff, cost me 5,500 WON.

Finally, I should note that they were also selling a gelato bingsoo. I did not have time to try it, but I appreciate their attempt to experiment (bingsoo is the quintessential Korean dessert).

Where in Seoul:
1, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Address in Korean: 서울특별시 종로구 종로 1 (종로1가)
I understand that they also have other locations, this is probably not the largest.

Finding Italian gelato in Tianzifang, Shanghai

Tianzifang is a gentrified maze of narrow alleys located south of Xiantidi in Shanghai. I have a love-hate relationship with it. Sometimes I dismiss it as a tourist trap, but sometimes I go back and I kind of like the crowded alleys full of small eateries and cafes. One problem is that shops and eateries usually do not survive long. In October 2018 I was surprised to come across some Italian gelato.

The visit

Here and there you can find ice cream in Tianzifang. But my attention was caught by their sign on a small kiosk claiming to produce artisan gelato from scratch. Actually, if you look at Movo website you discover that Movo is an Italian company selling pre-mixed ingredients for ice cream parlour, so I do not know to what extent this claim is accurate.

The place is called Movo and it is just a small kiosk selling four or five flavors at any given time.

They claim to make their gelato daily with a shelf life of just 12 hours. This means natural ingredients with no additives.

I had chocolate and hazelnut. The flavors did remind me of artisan gelato: they were not strong like ice cream with chemical flavors, but still distinct.

The check

Two flavors cost me 48 CNY (around 7 USD).

Where in Shanghai:
In one of the corners of lane 248, Taikang Road.
Address in Chinese: 上海市卢湾区打浦桥泰康路248号

Gelato dal Cuore in Shanghai

I was made aware of this ice cream shop by the owner of Mammamia in Tokyo.

The visit

Gelato dal Cuore (from heart) is located in a quiet street in Jingan.

The interior is contemporary and well designed. Some seats are available.

I quick scan of the counter shows both classic and original flavors: dark chocolate, tiramisu, hazelnut, but also mango lassi, mint chocolate, pumpkin, strawberry milk and black sesame. They produce small batches of gelato freshly made daily in the traditional Italian way.

I had chocolate and tiramisu. Both flavors were strong and creamy. A perfect specimen of Italian ice cream.

The check

Two flavors cost 35 CNY (5 USD) and three flavors 48 CNY (7 USD). They also have some hot drinks.

Highly recommended.

Where in Shanghai:
600 Shaanxi Bei Lu, Near Xinzha Lu, Jingan district
Address in Chinese: 静安区陕西北路600号
Check out their Instagram account.