Exquisite brunch at Sir Elly’s, Peninsula Shanghai

Sir Elly’s is the French restaurant of the Peninsula Hotel in Shanghai. Located on the 13th floor, it sport nice views of the Bund. I visited it as part of my Shanghai Michelin Guide Scramble.

The visit

I chose to visit the restaurant for brunch, because the brunch dishes seemed to be a fair representation of the high cuisine of the restaurant and not just afterthoughts as often happens with brunches.

Upon my arrival the staff welcomed me using my name. Was I the only foreigner dining there on that day? It turned out that for most of the meal I was the only guest! I had the beautiful dining room all for myself, only toward the end of my meal a Chinese couple joined the brunch. It was a slow weekend in Shanghai.

Similarly to what happens with their Chinese restaurant Yi Long Court on the second floor, the dining room tries to recreate the luxury and intimacy of a patrician house. It is a very classy venue.

The bread basket was impressive enough: French baguette, hazelnut bread, seaweed bread, a croissant, a hazelnut tart, and even a chocolate muffin.

And I was provided normal and salted butter, for good measure.

The brunch included four dishes: one appetizer, one egg or pancake, one main, and one dessert. For each category several options were available.

My appetizer was a hamachi carpaccio with asparagus, passion fruit, lotus. What was impressive was that it came in a bread container that reminded of a crab shell. The dots on the plate were mango and soy jellies. It was a delicious and well-designed dish.

The second list of dishes included brunch classics such as poached eggs, waffles and crepes. I chose the buckwheat crepes filled with bechamel and smoked salmon. The bechamel was spectacularly creamy and light.

The cod was a slow-cooked fillet, coming with an artichoke and clam-butter sauce that was added at my table. Really a delicious piece of cod.

I was not in the mood for a sweet, so I chose the comte cheese platter. This was a bit underwhelming. A cheese combination would have been better. But it was what it was advertised on the menu. The cakes should be a better choice.

The check

The brunch cost 428 RMB before tax and service charge. With a bottle of water, the minimum you would spend for brunch is 586.50 RMB (82 USD). It is a pricey brunch, but in line with the quality of the dishes. If you prefer quality vs. the quantity of a buffet, this brunch is actually a nice option. They also have a more affordable lunch menu, while dinner may be an expensive affair. Their tasting menu was around 2000 RMB at the time of my visit.

The service was impeccable and part of the positive experience, with all staff that could communicate in English well.

Where in Shanghai:
13F, The Peninsula Shanghai, 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu.
In Chinese: 上海市黄浦区中山东一路32号上海半岛酒店13楼.
Go to their website for menus and online reservation.

Dim Sum brunch at Imperial Treasure in Shanghai

Imperial Treasure is a chain of Chinese restaurants hailing from Singapore operating several formats: Fine Chinese Cuisine, Teochew Cuisine, Peking Duck, Shanghai Cuisine, Steamboat. The first restaurant specializing in Teochew Cuisine was established in 2004 in Singapore and the Shanghai restaurant that I visited was their first international location opened in 2012. It is a Cantonese restaurant and for some reason has two Michelin stars. They seem to do good business in Shanghai as they just opened another location using the Steamboat concept. You might encounter them also in Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Incheon, and London.

The visit

I went for a brunch on a Saturday. I made a reservation on the phone. The restaurant is huge and occupies an entire floor of YiFeng Galleria near the Bund (across the street from the Peninsula Hotel).

At 11am the place was already packed. It must be their busiest time of the week. It is really a local favorite. For lunch they have a special dim sum menu, but also the standard menu with more delicacies is available.

I started with my bellwether dish for Cantonese restaurants: the crispy pork belly. It was exceptional! On par with Ji Ping Court, better than the one from Lei Garden (the skin was tender, but still super crispy) and juicer than the one I had at Canton 8.

I had their Teochew dumpling, that has a vegetarian filling. I had better ones in Hong Kong.

Their super classic pork dumpling siew mai was also ok, but nothing exceptional.

The fried wonton with shrimp meat were quite good.

The pan-fried carrot cake with Chinese sausage was also pretty ordinary.

Finally, I found excellent their black sesame glutinous dumplings wit grated peanut. The sesame paste filling was particularly tasty.

The check

Final check (also including a bottle of Evian water and a juice) went for 377 RMB (around 52 USD). The value is there, prices were quite reasonable and the setting was high class.

Do not get me wrong, the food was very good, but the two Michelin stars will remain a mystery to me (same with Canton 8… looks like in Shanghai they give you stars if you make a half decent dim sum).

Having visited all the Michelin-starred restaurants in Shanghai with a sizable dim sum menu, I will say that Seventh Son beats all for quality while Yi Long Court has the best luxury dim sum.

Where in Shanghai:
 L402-403, Yi Feng Gallery, 99 Beijing Dong Lu.

Blending class and creative izakaya dishes at Hiya, Shanghai Edition

Shanghai Edition hotel has an izakaya, or, more appropriately put, an izakaya-inspired restaurant located on their 27th floor. As all the restaurants hosted by Shanghai Edition (Shanghai Tavern and Canton Disco), the venue is supervised by Jason Atherton, the Michelin-starred London-based restaurateur. Shanghai Edition occupies a heritage building on Nanjing East Road, not far from the Bund, once an utility company’s headquarters.

On the menu they explain: “Hiya kitchen is an expression for the love of Japanese cuisine. Our inventive and often natural cooking style combines the familiar of classic Japanese dishes using premium ingredients and modern techniques”. That’s the restaurant’s philosophy.

The visit(s)

To write this review I visited Hiya in May 2019 twice, on Saturdays, once for lunch and once for dinner. It is already a very popular venue and I had reservations with Open Table.

One thing to note: apparently having an elevator with low (very low) lights is now stylish… bring a lamp to find the right button. Out of the elevator you will see the reception, while the first thing that will strike you upon entering the dining room is the sight of the bronze staircase. It leads to the terrace cafe.

I like this window that offers a view upon the Custom House (the building with the clock tower) and Pudong’s skyline.

A view of the main dining room. Sofas and chairs are both available.

The menu is divided into sashimi, chilled dishes, temaco, tempura, grill, and desserts. A tasting menu is available. It is not an extensive menu (everything fits two pages), but every dish has something special to offer.

My first dish was a marinated tuna temaco (a cross-breeding between a temaki, a type of roll that you eat with your hands, and a taco). The shell was very crispy. The tuna was complemented by avocado, scallion and tobiko. Great innovative dish rich of substance.

Then I had their stuffed chicken wings (with rolled turnips). This was a remarkable dish as the top of the wings came already de-boned, so they were very easy to eat. And tasty.

I tried all the four tempura dishes (not really classic tempura, just an indication of fried dishes). The chicken karaage was my favorite. The chicken inside was juicy, but at the same time perfectly cooked. Best fried chicken in Shanghai. It came with hot tomato sauce, spices, matcha salt, and lemon salt.

The broccoli were another small masterpiece as they were covered in aged Parmesan cheese. They came with a classic tempura sauce and a kimchi dip sauce.

Another excellent dish in its simplicity was the wagyu beef agemono. Agemono technically is the general term for a number of Japanese deep fried dishes (including tempura and karaage). In this case indicated two deep fried beef meatballs with bonito flakes (katsuobushi on the menu). A simple but extremely satisfying dish.

The last deep fried dish I tried was the black cod tempura that was also impeccable. During these initial visits I did not have any of their big ticket items (better shared and I was alone). The thought of their tonkatsu and their beef gyuodon certainly makes me hungry.

I had their signature dessert, the Fuji Mont Blanc covered in chocolate sauce. A small marvel of a dessert.

The service was excellent and very friendly. In my visit by night I could appreciate the young vibe, a lot of young couples and party of friends enjoying their life. The music was not too loud.

The check(s)

In one visit I ended up spending 513 RMB (74.5 USD) and the second time 463 RMB (67 USD). Not your run-of-the-mill izakaya bill, but Hiya is not really an izakaya, it is more a homage to Japanese food. As a big lover of Japanese izakaya dishes, I had a lot of fun sampling the menu and I look forward to continuing the exploration.

Where in Shanghai:
27/F, Main Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu (East Road).
In Chinese: 南京东路199号.
Booking via Open Table.
Nearest Metro Station: East Nanjing Road.

Brunch at Shanghai Tavern

This brunch was really random. I literally ran away from another venue where the level of noise of the crowd was just unbearable (I am talking about the Westin). The contrast with my previous destination could not have been starker: the Tavern is an elegant and quiet place, especially for an early Sunday brunch.

The visit

Shanghai Tavern is located on the lobby level of the luxurious Shanghai Edition and has its own entrance at one side of the hotel on Nanjing East Road.

On a typical weekend Nanjing road is very crowded so it is really refreshing to step inside the Tavern to find a little urban oasis with many types of seating arrangements from sofas to booths and normal tables.

The Tavern serves British and European food in an elegant yet laid down environment. I think the name is misleading: I kind of assumed that it was a Chinese restaurant (maybe because of the Chinese Tavern in Rockbund).

I was welcomed by the professional staff, got a table, and served the bread basket with butter. The restaurant offers all-day dining starting from breakfast at 6am. For weekend brunch they have a fixed price for either two or three courses. For additional coins, you can also get a glass of quality champagne.

I had their “royal eggs”, just salmon poached eggs. A very well executed and fitting brunch dish.

The pan-seared snapper with kale mash was just a perfect dish.

Finally, I had their cheeseburger. A big boy, with smoked bacon and caramelized onion. It was what a cheeseburger is supposed to be and alone could satisfy one’s appetite.

I did not have the champagne, but I enjoyed a Japanese soda, because Japanese sodas are fun.

The check

The brunch deal was 348 RMB (50 USD) per three courses and 298 RMB (43 USD) for two. Prices were listed net. After adding the soda, I spent 403 RMB (58.5 USD). It is an average price for a Bund-worthy high-end location.

The food was good, solid Western food, not without some special touches (the kale puree was something). I did not regret changing my brunch plans and I would not mind visiting again.

Where in Shanghai:
199 Nanjing Road East.
Check their website for reservation info.

Gelato in Shanghai

After reviewing Gelato dal Cuore (still open, but I had the impression that quality went down and there are less flavors rotating) and Movo (not checked for a long time), it is time for a fresh selection of gelato parlors in Shanghai.

Bonus

In Ruijin 2 Road there is a gelato parlor that has become my favorite. Bonus claims to produce real gelato according to Italian methods. Not sure if it is from scratch, but they have some interesting flavors, such as cheese fig that was great with a scoop of chocolate.

35 RMB (5 USD) for two scoops. It is nice that they have a few bar chairs inside the shop, so in a hot day you can consume your gelato in a air-conditioned environment.

Address: 39 Ruijin Er Lu – 瑞金二路39号.

Il Buco

Il Buco (the hole) is just that, a window to the side of a bar, where to get Salvatore Naselli’s artisanal gelato.

  Only 8 flavors are available at any given time.

40 RMB (5.80 USD) for two very generous scoops. Hazelnut and pistachio were excellent.

Address: 20-2 Donghu Lu – 瑞金二路39号.

De Medici

De Medici is located across the Waldorf Astoria, near the Bund, specifically near the intersection in front of the Gutzlaff Signal Tower.

I tried chocolate and hazelnut chocolate. It was just ok. I am pretty sure that their gelato is made with pre-mixed components. Two scoops were 35 RMB (5 USD), but smaller than the previous two parlors.

Address: 17 Yanan Dong Lu – 延安东路17号.

Luneurs Boulanger & Glacier 

I also tried the ice cream (not really gelato) from Luneurs, a hipster French bakery opened by some of the staff that used to work for a popular French bakery called Farine that, until it closed amid a scandal, also featured a queue-conjuring ice cream.

I tried their raspberry/strawberry sorbet and their signature chocolate (with dried banana bits) and I really did not like it. Not creamy and low in flavor.

Two scoops for 35 RMB (5 USD) like most places, but it must be acknowledged that their scoop size is the largest among the parlors reviewed on this page.

Address: 381 Panyu Lu / 番禺路381号.

The Sunday Brunch at the Cathay Room between history and seafood

The Cathay Room is one of the restaurants of the Fairmont Peace Hotel, a Shanghai’s landmark. Built from 1926 to 1929, it was originally called Cathay Hotel and also hosted the private apartment of the owner, Victor Sassoon (technically, also the building across the street was part of the complex, it is now a separate property). Victor Sassoon was behind the development of a lot of art deco buildings in Shanghai and my understanding is that the Cathay Room was below (or part of) his quarters. The hotel even has a small museum where you can learn about his remarkable past. I spent time reading a letter of a British woman telling her story of her time at the hotel as a hostage of the Japanese. Some fascinating stuff if you are a history buff.

To get to the restaurant, take the third entrance to the right (the first one is closed and the central entrance leads to the main hotel reception), turn right and look for the elevators: the Cathay Room is at the 9th floor. They also have a terrace with fabulous views of Pudong and the river.

The visit

On Sundays, and only on Sundays, The Cathay Room offers a brunch semi-buffet. The seafood spread is formidable and it is what lures me back. In this review, I will account for my visit on Sunday 21 April 2019, that happened to be Easter. The restaurant was busier than usual.

The dining room has a classic charm and is quite intimate.

The table was impeccable and had some Easter goodies.

One station is dedicated to oysters. On this visit they were Moana oysters from Australia. They were shucked by the staff on demand. It is usually my first stop.

They have a decent selection of sushi and sashimi (including all the right pickled vegetables). Sashimi slices are thick.

Another station is dedicated to fresh crustaceans including giant clams, abalone, shrimps, king crab claws, mussels, razor clams.

Peking duck pancakes were prepared at this station.

Deep fried pork belly, some cold cuts (they discontinued the Spanish ham), smoked salmon, pate’, cheese, bread were available on one side of the central buffet table.

A number of Chinese appetizers and salads were available on the other side of the table, including boiled egg mimosa sprinkled with caviar.

This is a semi-buffet, because the buffet is supposed to be just an appetizer. Then you can order a main from the list above.

I had their turnedos Rossini that was fully satisfying. The meat was really top-grade and super-tender. Also the lamb chops and the cod were substantial dishes.

Among the many treats available, I want to show their truffle cheese and cheese bell peppers. Quite unique in a buffet. I appreciate the attention to the details.

Finally there was a dessert buffet with a couple of good cakes.

The check

The check was 687.70 RMB (or 102 USD) after service charge and water and soft drinks were included (ignore the separation in the check between beverage and food, it was total price, the subdivision must be for internal reasons).

Given the quality of the food, I have no problem with their price.

Finally, they also have some free-flow options for Champagne lovers.

Where in Shanghai:
Ninth Floor, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 Nanjing Dong Lu (West Road)
In Chinese: 南京东路20号费尔蒙和平饭店9楼
Info from the official website and link to reservation here.

Brunch at Jean Georges in Shanghai


Jean-Georges in Shanghai holds the record to be the first signature restaurant outside of New York of world-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. It is a French restaurant.

The visit

I visited the restaurant for brunch in April 2018 with two friends. It is located on Bund 3 along other high-end restaurants and sports nice views of the Huangpu river and Pudong. It is a very classy location, dominated by bright colors.

The brunch deal included two courses and a dessert. We also ordered some additional dishes.

Our order included the chef’s signature eggs with caviar, that I did not find worth it. The other dishes were tasty, beautifully presented, with a touch of creativity here and there.

The check

The brunch deal was around 330 RMB per person. The same offer is still available at the time of writing this post. We actually spent much more by ordering the caviar eggs and some additional dishes. The brunch menu is a good deal in my opinion and it is a great way to have a brunch on the Bund. But if you go for dinner and order a la carte is another story, this is the kind of place where spending hundred of dollars for a meal is quite easy.

Where in Shanghai:
4F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
In Chinese: 中山东一路3号4楼
Menu and reservations:http://www.threeonthebund.com/dining.php

The discovery menu from Robuchon in Shanghai

Opened in 2016, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is the flagship restaurant of the Robuchon’s properties in Shanghai and it is located in Bund 18. Needless to say, it was awarded Michelin stars (two). Robuchon (passed away last year) is the chef that with his multiple restaurants collected most stars in the world.

The visit

My visit dates back to April 2017 and I went with two friends to try the discovery menu for Sunday brunch. This is the four-course entry level tasting menu and at that time it was available only for brunch or for early or late dinners. Not sure whether this has changed since then, but the menu is still available.

When the staff called to confirm my reservation they told me that only counter seats were available. That was not ideal, but when I showed up with my friends they gave us a normal table. More than half of the seats in the restaurant are bar chairs facing the open kitchen.

Down below pictures of some of the dishes, 4 courses, including one appetizer, one soup, one main, and one dessert.

The check

The discovery menu was priced 756 RMB (excluding supplements for certain dishes and beverages), that would be 112 USD. Not a bad deal for a Robuchon on the Bund.

The dishes were beautifully presented and made full use of French high-end ingredients and cooking techniques.

Where in Shanghai:
Bund 18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
In Chinese: 黄浦区中山东一路18号外滩十八号
Website for menus and reservations: http://www.joelrobuchon-china.com/

Crab dinner in Shanghai at Cheng Long Hang

Shanghai people love crabs. The local variety is called mitten crab or hairy crab (because of the hairy claws) and lives in lakes and estuaries. Funnily enough, these crabs are regarded as a pest in Western countries.

The best time to eat hairy crabs is between October and December: it is crab season because the roe inside female and male crabs reaches its peak: the sweet roe is what makes many dishes appealing (like eggs and crab or tofu and crab).

There are many restaurants specializing in crabs in and around Shanghai. I already described a restaurant just selling crab noodles. This review is about Cheng Long Hang (sometimes referred as Crab Palace), one of the most famous crab restaurants in Shanghai with various locations around town. I visited the location near the Bund that in the 2020 Michelin Guide to Shanghai got one star.

The visit

The Bund location is located on a quiet street near West Nanjing Road metro station. Since the early morning the kitchen visible from the street is busy with staff picking pulp from the crabs. This is actually one of the reasons I went: I noticed several dishes on the menu with pure crab meat, without the pain to work a crab by myself.

Behind the unassuming storefront lies a two-story dining room with a common area downstairs and many private rooms. I went on a weekend evening and there were two musicians performing, intermittently, with traditional instruments. I found the place, also for this reason, quite touristy. Not sure whether the other venues have the same atmosphere.

Some crabby details on the table.

I was welcomed with some freebies: almonds, a sort of grissini, and winter melon. Lemon-flavored hot water was also provided free of charge, which is always nice.

Not finished yet: a complimentary amuse bouche was offered in the form of a spicy crab soup (in a tiny bowl).

My first dish was sauteed crab meat (50 grams as indicated on the menu). Loved it. And 50 grams did not feel too little.

Then I got a dish that had made me curious: crab meat in a warmed orange. The two elements surprisingly fused quite well.

Then I was served a beautifully presented crab paste and avocado salad. The avocado was mixed with crunchy bread crumbs and surmounted by a piece of crab innards that tasted like wine. And indeed the crab paste was marinated in wine. I did not get this from the menu. I personally dislike wine so I did not enjoy this dish! Nevertheless it was an interesting dish.

Finally I had a yellow croaker soup with bamboo fungus. Not amazing, but this was a good soup.

At the end of my meal I was offered a cup of tea.

Staff did not speak English, but they were very friendly and made efforts to help me understand what I was eating… the menu was fully translated in English and Japanese.

The check

The crab dinner for one person cost me 414 RMB (or 61.5 USD). For around this price point they also had a nice set menu, but I wanted to try some specific dishes.

Not cheap, but crabs are not cheap. All in all, I will call it reasonable.

The food was quite good and they do have a number of interesting dishes. They have my recommendation, even during off-season like in this visit.

Where in Shanghai:
216 Jiujiang Lu, by Henan Zhong Lu
In Chinese: 九江路216号, 近河南中路
Nearest metro station: West Nanjing Road (line 2 and 10).

More about hairy crabs and where to find them from That’s Mag.

Brunch at M on the Bund

In March 2019 I finally tried M on the Bund, one of the first Western restaurants on the Shanghai’s Bund. Established in 1999 by Australian restaurateur Michelle Garnaut, the restaurant specializes in dishes with a mixture of Middle Eastern and European style.

The visit

The restaurant is located on the 7th floor of Bund 5, a location hosting many high-end restaurants (see my review of Atto Primo). They share the floor with their bar/lounge called Glam. The dining area is spacious, yet intimate. I had a reservation through Chope.

They have a wonderful terrace with view on the Bund, but on the day of my visit it was raining, so I could not enjoy it.

For brunch, they have a limited menu with the option to choose two courses (one appetizer and one main) or three (also a dessert). I went for two courses.

Included in the price also a drink. I had orange juice.

My appetizer was a carpaccio. The beef was thinly cut. The mayo was not needed.

My main dish was their weekend platter with a minute steak, a lamb chop, mashed potatoes, sausages, a fried egg. I really enjoyed this dish as I do not have often English breakfast goodies in China.

The tea came with a couple of complimentary sweets.

Before leaving I took a pic of their souvenir corner: they sell their glassware, tea cups, and other utensils.

The check

The two course brunch option after service charge cost me 327 RMB (48.5 USD). Nothing to complain about it given the location and the excellent service in English.

Also after factoring the fact that the brunch menu does not showcase the full extent of M on the Bund’s cuisine, I was not impressed by the offering. I could not really see on the menu any dish that would lure me back. Given the nice location, it is a place to keep in mind for afternoon tea.

Where in Shanghai:
20 Guangdong Lu, 7th Floor, No 5 on The Bund
In Chinese: 上海市黄浦区广东路20号, 外滩五号7楼, 近中山东一路
Website (also for reservation): http://m-restaurantgroup.com