Crabs, zen, and noodles

In a trip in Shanghai at the end of 2018 I noticed something familiar on Guangdong road. It was a restaurant very similar to one I had visited one year earlier in another part of town. Initially I thought it may have been a rip-off, but no, it was a new branch just a stone-throw away from Bund 3/5. 

I had learnt about the place whose English name should be Cejerdary. in a very well-written article published on Smartshanghai

It only serves two dishes: two types of crab noodles. Apparently it is owned by a vegetarian ascetic that has never eaten a crab. Apart from the backstory, I loved my previous visits so I tried the new location on the Bund. 

The visit

I arrived early and at that time there was no queue. They have a waiting room. They also take reservations. 

The style of the environment is very distinctive. Wooden furniture, wicker basket where to place your bag and overcoat…

And a wall of photos picturing the owner with famous people. 

The service begins with a cup of ginger tea and peanuts. Then the choice is pretty simple: they have crab noodles with the meat from the claws or with the meat from the whole crab, this second choice being more expensive and allowing to taste the crab roe. You can also make your selection a “combo” by adding a steamed crab. They use hairy crabs that are very popular in Shanghai especially during their mating season (peaking between October and November). In the past, I knew that this restaurant was open only during the mating season, but a waiter told me that they are now open all year round. If I understood correctly, not sure how the noodles would change. 

I went for the option with the claw meat. Personally I think it is even better as it is less sweet. 

The noodles are very delicate and are a good match for the crab meat.

This is a picture of the more expensive version: you can see all the roe that confers the dish a sweet flavor.  

I liked my crab noodles, even if I remembered a more delicate flavor in the past, not sure if anything has changed since they opened the new location. 

The check

The generous portion of crab noodles (with claw meat only) cost me 72 CNY (just a little over 10 USD). Very good value. The other version of the noodles with the meat from the whole crab costs around 50 USD (hairy crabs are expensive). 

There are other restaurants that specialize in crabs in Shanghai, but only this one managed to create such a distinctive experience and branding. It is worth a visit. 

Where in Shanghai:
59 Guangdong Lu, a couple of block down from Bund 3. 

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