Tag: Closed

An evening celebrating Leonardo Da Vinci at Va Bene in Shanghai (closed)

An Italian friend of mine invited to a dinner organized by the Association of Italian Academics in China and the Shanghai chapter of the Italian Cuisine Academy in an Italian restaurant in Shanghai, Va Bene, to celebrate Leonardo Da Vinci. 2019 marks five centuries from the death of this boundless genius.

The dinner menu was designed by the chef of Va Bene and inspired by Leonardo and his time. Before the dinner proper, an Italian professor based in China, Andrea Baldini, spoke about Leonardo and his relation with food. There was a lot to be said. I am reporting what I heard from the professor. (He also framed his remarks within the context of creativity theory, but I will skip on this aspect since the focus here is food.)

To begin with, Leonardo is believed to have invented the saffron rice, a typical dish from Milan. While working for Milanese and French royalty, Leonardo was often involved in the organization of banquets and he invented a number of tools to expedite the work in the kitchen, including some pasta grinding machine. Leonardo was very much interesting in what we call today “plating”, that is the aesthetic presentation of food. He even started his own restaurant in Florence in cooperation with another illustrious artist, Sandro Botticelli. It was specializing in frogs, but it did not survive long (perhaps being ahead of his time). The table napkins are another invention ascribed to Leonardo.

The president of the Shanghai chapter of the Italian Cuisine Academy tried to argue that Leonardo may have been the illigimate son of a Tuscan nobleman and an Asian slave. So chances are that Leonardo was half Chinese! But do not quote me on this.

The dinner

The dinner and the presentations took place in the Va Bene restaurant in Xiantindi. They prepared an impressive table occuppying the all length of the dining room located on the second floor of a traditional shikumen house.

The dinner started with three type of canapes: cucumber with delicious cream cheese, lemon and mint; a creamy cod puree on a crispy semolina cracker; a small pastry filled with lamb ragout and cinnamon. I think they did a very good job with these amuse bouche.

The break basket was also there.

The appetizer platter included three items: chicken liver pate in a sourdough bread “oreo” with some orange jelly (top); a classic bruschetta with a piece of finocchiona (a type of Tuscan salami), Parmesan cheese foam and onion jam (creating an interesting mix of sweet and sour, pictured on the left); a fantastic porcini mushroom flan with sweat garlic cream on top (right). I appreciated the creativity of these appetizers and how the references to Tuscany and flavors of another time were gradually introduced.

The first main (“primo”) was the classic saffron risotto with a boost of bone marrow. This dish could not be missed since Leonardo is believed to be the father of this quintessential Milanese risotto. It was very good, I would say perfectly executed.

The second main (“secondo”) was a very inventive dish: roasted pork filled with beef, figs, and foie gras in a sauce made with egg yolk cream and anchovy mayonnaise. Two small boiled chestnuts completed the ensemble. This dish was inspired by a popular practice in banquets at the time of Leonardo that we might call “recursive filling”: the idea of filling a type of meat with another type of meat also filled with a third element. Strangely I did not find the dish very flavorful, but I really appreciated the inventiveness.

Before the dessert, we were offered pecorino cheese (both spicy and sweet) with fruit mustard. The cheese and mustard were excellent.

The dessert included a glass of vin santo, a typical dessert wine from Tuscany.

The dessert was one of my favorite dishes because it was delicious and made full use of the ingredients and cooking style of five hundred years ago. It was a very soft bread cake with raisins, Elderflower rosemary with almond milk.

Wines were a big part of the dinner with a selection from Tuscany and Lombardy, the two Italian regions more connected with Leonardo.

The check

The price of the dinner was 700 RMB. I wish there was a price for people like me that did not drink wine. Not a cheap dinner, but I appreciated all the organization and creativity behind. Certainly I do not regret attending and learning more about Leonardo Da Vinci in the kitchen.

Where in Shanghai:
Xintiandi, 2/F, North Block,
Lane 181 Taicang Lu.
In Chinese: 太仓路181号2楼新天地北里, 近马当路.

Venue closed in early 2020.

Curated Italian cuisine at Into the Kitchens in Ho Chi Minh City (closed)

During my summer 2019 trip to Ho Chi Minh City I was recommended to check out a new Italian eatery in District 1 called Into the Kitchen, started by the former Italian chef of a high-end restaurant in town.

The visit

I went to the restaurant for a late dinner.

The restaurant is located inside a courtyard.

It is a casual restaurant including a bar.

They gave me a complimentary basket of flat-bread with a nice tomato sauce dip. My order was handled by a very professional Vietnamese young lady that knew about Italian cuisine and service.

The menu was intriguing. Instead of the classic headings (appetizers, mains, pasta, etc.) they had the dishes mixed in different categories such as hearty food, Mediterranean and veggies, from the sea, from the grill, etc. A lot of meat is available, including an interesting veal skirt and baked pumpkin flowers.

I had their pici (a type of eggless pasta you do not find often in Asia) with duck ragout. I enjoyed very much! This type of pasta has a velvety texture that makes it very distinct.

As I was still unsatisfied by the cockerel that I had at Quince, I ordered their rotisserie baby chicken (a whole one). It was marinated and rubbed with honey and ginger. It came with roasted potatoes and chily gravy. It was excellent (even if my best chicken of the summer was the one in Chiang Mai).

The check

The check was 610,000 VND (or 26 USD). I cannot complain. Everything from the food to the service was to my satisfaction. Definitely a place to visit again.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
158/5 Nguyễn Công Trứ
Visit their Facebook page to see the menu.

Update 2020: sadly the restaurant is now closed. The chef moved on and took up a position at the Caravelle Hotel.

Epic dinner in a typical hole-in-the wall Hong Kong eatery (closed)

I am very lucky that I have some good friends in Hong Kong with whom I always share a meal or two when I am visiting. During my trip in June 2019 they took me to a traditional Hong Kong eatery in Wan Chai. It is one of those restaurant that is as large as a private dining room. On a Friday night it was packed. It must be a very popular place. Its English name is “Your restaurant”.

The visit

Dishes started to arrive pretty quickly. The first was a vegetable soup.

The main attraction of the evening was a garlic chicken served with tofu. The tofu was very tasty, almost as much as the chicken. In the picture above you can see the dish before the waiter poured the garlic dressing (see picture on top of the page).

Clams.

I particularly enjoyed this deep fried whitebait.

Glazed pork.

More chicken meat in soy sauce.

Some greens.

At the end everyone praised the house puddings. I had a coconut pudding, while the most popular around the table was the whisky pudding.

The check

It was 980 HKD for a huge feast. In the end we paid around 160 HKD per person (20 USD). Relly good value for money.

Where in Hong Kong:
3 Tai Wong St E, Wan Chai
Open rice page.

Update September 2019: I have been informed by friends that the restaurant closed down. The owner just had it enough. Old Hong Kong disappearing.

Ginza Bairin tonkatsu in Shanghai (closed)

Like Maisen and Saboten, Ginza Bairin is an old Japanese tonkatsu joint that became a large chain with overseas branches. I have not been at the original shop in Ginza, Tokyo, but I have visited two shops in Shanghai.

The visit (IFC)

One of their stores is on the fourth floor of IFC mall in Pudong.

Inside they have a variety of sitting arrangements.

I ordered their signature tonkatsu that is different from usual: it is a fillet cut (not the usual loin) and the standard portion comes with three pieces. The fillet is pinkish inside and the meat is imported from Japan. It was tender and spotless meat.

They also have other deep fried dishes: scallop, beef, salmon, white fish, prawns… it is possible to combine them to make a customized platter. They have on the menu the katsu sando (pork cutlet sandwich) but, to my dismay, it was not available at the time of this visit.

For lunch, they had a special set that also included rice, pickles, egg custard, and miso soup.

One important part of the experience is the special house tonkatsu sauce, to add a sweet flavor to the cutlet. They claim that “originated in 1927, this sauce is a sweet blend of spices, apples and vegetables. Its smooth yet rich taste is unique to Ginza Bairin”. Also the more common sesame dressing was available and a spicy wasabi dressing as well.

I also tried an additional dish: egg omelette with eel. It was just ok. The rest of the menu is extensive, but not really attractive to me.

The check (IFC)

The lunch set was 108 RMB (16 USD) and the egg dish was 58 RMB (8.6 USD). Not having visited the original store in Tokyo I cannot comment on the authenticity. Overall was good, but I was not carried away like in Saboten (but it was Taipei). My impression is that in order to cater to the local customers they have lost the focus on the pork cutlet and other deep fried dishes and tried to offer a more complete Japanese food menu including sushi and sashimi. I would not recommend it for Japanese food other than tonkatsu.

The visit (Hongqiao Airport)

Curiously, I came across a Ginza Bairin branch at Hongqiao Airport (airside, near the international departure gates). Food in Chinese airports is usually so bad that was like a mirage.

I also had the pork fillet lunch set, that came with rice and miso soup.

The usual set of sauces.

The lunch set had fewer sides than the one at IFC, but here I got a scoop of green tea ice cream included in the price.

The check (Hongqiao Airport)

The price was slightly more expensive than the IFC lunch set at 118 RMB or 17.5 USD (please note that there was a mistake on the pictured receipt, it was a fillet tonkatsu, not a loin).

Where in Shanghai:
Hongqiao Airport Branch: Terminal 1 International Departure Airside Mezzanine Floor I-206.
IFC: Shop 9-10, 4/F, Shanghai IFC mall, 8 Century Avenue, Lujiazui, Pudong New Area.
On June 2020 the IFC location was closed and I could not find indication of the Hongqiao location anywhere.

A culinary journey through China at Bo Shanghai (closed)

This is going to be a posthumous review of the now closed Bo Shanghai at Five on the Bund (an announcement suggests that the restaurant may be relocating). The restaurant is part of my Shanghai Michelin Scramble as it got a star in the 2018 and 2019 editions. I dined at Bo Shanghai with two friends in May 2017, before starting this blog and before the restaurant got its Michelin star. The photos have been made available to me by one of the friends at the dinner.

The restaurant was run by two close collaborators of Alvin Leung, the chef at the helm of the original Bo Innovation in Hong Kong: Simon Wong and Tam DeAille, both of whom were born in Hong Kong but raised in Canada where they met Alvin.

The visit

I met my two friends on the sixth floor of Bund 5. Bo Shanghai was concealed behind a hidden door accessible through Daimon Bistro, a eatery also set up by Alvin that was also closed.

The menu was not a replica of the Hong Kong’s menu. The chef had their freedom to create an original menu whose main idea was a culinary journey across China, but, of course, with a twist. Chinese traditional dishes were re-created using Western cooking techniques and ingredients. From what I can see online, the chefs would change the menu quite often.

Since it was a long time ago, I am not going to pretend to remember how the dishes tasted. They were all explained by the waitress. It was fun, there was a lot of creativity. My favorite was probably the “stinky tofu” that was not real stinky tofu, but blue cheese wrapped in fried tofu. You got the idea. Below the pics from the evening, I left the caption blank for some dishes that I was not sure how to cross-reference with the menu.

Fujian: Duck egg, caviar, lime.
Jiangsu: duck, with chestnuts, mandarin, and mustard seeds.
Anhui: lobster with Gu Jing Gong (a liquor) soup, Japanese mushroom, and capsella.
Sichuan – Foie de Canard
Anhui: Wagyu with “stinky tofu” (on the right with a bamboo shoot).
Shandong – Risotto with yellow chicken, abalone, and seaweed.

Hunan: panna cotta with orange blossom, blood orange, and almonds

The check

The cost per person was 1848 RMB after service charge (around 275 USD). Wine pairings were available at a steep price (825 RMB for three glasses and 1045 RMB for five glasses). Wow, that was a handsome amount of cash. Once was enough, while I might consider visiting the original Bo Innovation in Hong Kong.

Chicken dinner at Al’s Place in Shanghai (closed)

Al’s Diners have been a fixture in Shanghai (there are two but feels like there are more). Al’s Place opened in January 2018 and brought Al’s menu to the fourth floor of K11 Art Mall (a place with also other interesting restaurants like Professor Lee).

The visit

I went to Al’s Place during a busy Saturday evening but I did not have any problem finding a seat.

The menu is full of classic American fare from blueberry pancakes to burgers and also includes some interesting fusion experiments such as teriyaki glazed beef skewers or miso pork belly sliders. But in the end my attention was caught by the roast chicken that they only offer for dinner.

Before sinking my teeth into the chicken I had their tomato soup that came in a huge bowl. Only slightly spicy, it was very good.

The chicken, in this case half, came with a sauce and was indeed very good. I just wish it was “meatier”.

They also had an ice cream counter (yet smaller than the one in Xinle road). Their ice cream may warrant a separate review one day.

The check

In total I spent 133 RMB (around 20 USD). Water was included. I cannot complain, it was reasonable value for money considering the upscale location. Also I found the environment more comfortable than Al’s Diner, at least the one in Xinle road.

I recommend Al’s Place (and Diners) to satisfy craves for American food (sometimes with a twist) in Shanghai.

This venue is now closed, but the other Al’s Diners are still in business as usual.

Where in Shanghai:
300 Huaihai Middle Road (k11 Art Mall), 4/F, Unit 403B
黄浦区淮海中路300号K11艺术购物中心4楼403B商铺

An affordable sushi restaurant in Saigon Center: Ikeikemaru (closed)

You cannot splurge every day. In Saigon Center, Ho Chi Minh City, there is a sushi restaurant to keep in mind for a cheap but yet quality sushi meal.

The visit

The restaurant is located in the second basement of Saigon Centre, in the heart of Saigon and its full name is Ryoshi Sushi Ikeikemaru. It is a conveyor belt sushi restaurant (I reviewed a similar restaurant in Tokyo). From what I understand it is originally from Singapore.

They have two types of seating arrangements: counter and booths for groups.


Rules of the house.

What is notable is that they serve a lot of different types if sushi, like this gizzard shard known for its strong flavor.

Another very unusual sushi in Saigon, with a fluffy egg custard.

A shrimp croquette.

Another sushi with a strong flavor: mackerel, seared with vinegar.

I also ordered from the menu (they have reduced the number of dishes on the conveyor belt, but the number is still significant). The menu, by the way, comprises also many other Japanese food classics, such as ramen.

The first trio of sushi included tuna, tuna belly and negitoro (minced tuna). The second one included snapper, hamachi, and tuna again.

Finally I had some tuna sashimi. Not the best tuna in town, but very good value.

They serve over 100 types of sushi.

The check

Total check was 376,300 VND (or 16.20 USD). A single sushi dish from the conveyor belt was 27,500 VND (1.18 USD).

Ikeikemaru is good value for money and at the same time it provides a nice assortment of sushi that is difficult to come by even in higher end restaurants in Saigon.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
65 Le Loi, B2 Floor, Saigon Center.

Update 2020: After the March lockdown the restaurant did not re-open. Keep an eye on their FB page to see if they re-open.

One of my favorite brunch spots in Hong Kong: the Blue Butcher (closed)

The Blue Butcher has in my opinion one of the best deals for brunch “semi-buffets” in Hong Kong. The idea of a semi-buffet is quite good: a nice spread of appetizers, desserts and other more or less substantial snacks and a menu from which to order one or two mains.

The Blue Butcher on weekends has a spread that is really difficult to beat in terms of quality. In addition to this, you get to choose a main dish from a list of five options and a cocktail.

Coincidentally, they are operated by the same company owning Mott 32.

The visit

In 2018 I have been to the Blue Butcher twice, the latest visit in December 2018. If I am staying in West Hong Kong it is a must. I usually book via phone or their website.

They have a bar/lounge area downstairs opening on Hollywood Road, while the brunch is served in the main dining room upstairs. It is a spacious and comfortable space.

The buffet is certainly their main selling point. They have a very good selection of cheese, tartines, cold cuts, seafood, not to mention the dessert station (I will mention it later).

The oyster station is alone worth the price of admission.

Seafood includes prawns, salmon, tuna and crawfish.

The choice of mains is quite limited, but they are all appealing. They have included in the basic price a burger, coal roasted Canadian pork (excellent), deep fried foie gras, pan-seared salmon, and a type of pasta (cavatelli) with mushrooms and Parmesan cheese. So far I only tried the pork and it was excellent.

On my last visit, I had one of their steaks that come at an additional price. It was a good 12 oz (340 grams) piece of Australian sirloin. Truffle and Parmesan fries are included.

Some of my choices: oysters!

Cold cuts and some good cheese (montasio and pecorino).

An avocado tartine, a piece of quiche, salmon and tuna.

My dessert panna cotta with strawberries, chocolate cake and a piece of authentic Italian panettone (it was mid December after all and that’s the season for this baked good).

The dessert station is pretty amazing and they can prepare you a real crepe.

The check

Normally the cost of the brunch is 495 HKD (63 USD). But I chose a steak and it was 220 HKD more, so the total check was 715 HKD (91 USD).

Honestly, with all the food available in the buffet, going for an upgraded main is not necessary, unless you really want a steak (but then go on a normal day when their steak menu is more extensive).

Overall, I found the Blue Butcher a very good alternative to more traditional hotel buffets.

Where in Hong Kong:
108 Hollywood Road.
Website: http://www.bluebutcher.com

Sadly, the restaurant closed on 19 May 2019 due to rent hike.

The five-course tasting menu at Umi, in Shanghai (Closed)

On a Sunday evening I had a chance to try Umi, a contemporary Japanese restaurant and lounge located in the upmarket Taikoo Hui mall in Shanghai.

The visit

The entrance is located on the third level of the mall where a reception escorted. Here you will be escorted to an elevator, while the real restaurant occupies a space on the third floor. As I stepped into the restaurant and walked past the terrace I was struck by the elegance of the interiors and the nice outdoor space (unfortunately not appropriate for a chilly November evening). By no accident the restaurant was shortlisted for a design award.

I and my friend opted for the five-course tasting menu.

We were promptly served the first dish, one oyster with passion fruit and jalapeño. The sauce did not distract from the flavor of the meaty oyster. I should have doubled down.

The second dish was a carpaccio of hamachi (Japanese yellotail, usually farmed) with tobiko (flying fish roe) and pomelo. I appreciated the quality of the hamachi that was very tasty (it can be very bland sometimes). Every bit of the condiment added to the flavor, even the herbs.

Then we had a bowl of “treasures”: half was a sort of snow crab congee and half was made of steamed eggs sormounted by truffle flakes. In between there was also some sea urchin (umi). I can only describe it as a delicious dish.

Finally, we got to the main attraction: a half lobster supplemented by some Spanish rice and spinach. Again, all the condiments used for the lobster added to the original flavor without compromising it.

The last dish was a dessert: coconut ice cream, with a bar of black sesame and passion fruit sauce. I particularly liked to combine the black sesame crust with the ice cream.

The check

The set menu was 398 CNY (57 USD) net per person because of a promotion (normally would be 488 CNY). The matcha tea (not sure why indicated on the bill as mocha) was very reasonably priced and was freely refilled throughout the dinner. A sake pairing was available for 298 CNY.

Overall, I think the price was very reasonable for this superb tasting menu. I enjoyed every single dish and I can say that even if I am not a culinary expert I appreciated the creativity behind the dishes.

The place would certainly deserves another visit to try their sushi and sashimi.

Where in Shanghai:
Unit L321&L401, Entrance on 3/F, Taikoo Hui, 288 Shimen Yi Lu / 石门一路288号.
Address in Chinese: 兴业太古汇3楼L321&L401.
They take reservations via Chope.
Nearest metro station: West Nanjing.

Melt-in-your-mouth brisket and more at TNT BBQ in Ho Chi Minh City (Closed)

Sadly we learnt that the restaurant closed at the end of September 2019. This is the message announcing the closure from the owners:

Vietnamese love BBQ and over the course of years a few solid American-style BBQ restaurants opened in Ho Chi Minh City. In my opinion, TNT BBQ is probably the best, certainly a favorite of mine. A few years ago they moved in a nice location just a couple of blocks from the central Ben Thanh market. I always try to stop by during my trips to Saigon.

The visit

TNT BBQ is tucked away in a quiet side street of Ly Tu Truong. They did a very nice job in decorating the place. The faux bricks wall, the “far west” memorabilia and the vintage posters create a cozy atmosphere.

They also have a wide assortment of craft beers if you are into that.

As you seat, you are welcomed with a plate of corn bread, dip sauce and a bottle of cold water. Free of charge. This is a great level of service in my books.

In my latest visit, I ordered 200 grams of their smoked beef brisket, a piece of their smoked chicken with signature sauce and a jalapeno sausage, plus a side dish (coleslaw). Above you can see what I got (and you can see that by the time I got my order I had almost finished the corn bread… so good). They also specialize in pork ribs and have pulled pork. I had the ribs in the past and they are also excellent.

Everything is delicious, but the brisket in my opinion stands out. It just melted in my mouth and the ratio between fat and meat is perfect to enhance the flavor but without killing it. According to their menu it is slowly cooked for 16 hours to get to this shape.

Special mention to their jalapeno sausages that are filled with cheddar cheese. I would not know where to find them anywhere else in Ho Chi Minh City. By the way, for some reason good sausages are rare in Asia, so if you like them, make sure to include at least one in your order.

The check

I liked every single bite of what I ordered. While the brisket stood up, the chicken and the sausage were also great specimen of good BBQ meat. Overall, I spent 390,000 VND (more than half, 210,000, for the 200 grams of brisket). That’s around 16.75 USD, what I regard as a reasonable price for the quantity and quality of what I received.

If you like original smoked meat in a nice environment, I highly recommend TNT BBQ. Bonus: I will also mention that, over the years, I found them incredibly fast and reliable in their delivery service.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
3 Dang Tran Con, District 1.
They have a Facebook page and offer delivery.