Traditional yakitori in Ginza: Takechan

Takechan is a small yakitori joint in Ginza (not far from Mitsukoshi department store) that has been running for over 50 years. Thanks to the internet, the cat is out of the bag and nowadays locals and tourists fight for a spot at its counter.

The visit

I decided to try my luck at Takechan after being turned back from a steakhouse nearby that was full. The store can be easily missed, but it was past 8pm and there was still a queue outside that unmistakably marked my destination. Eventually, we all made it in after 10-15 minutes wait. Not so bad. I was the last person to be seated, just 5 minutes before the last order time (8.30pm). The place does not take reservations as it is normal for traditional yakitori joints.

I sat at the counter next to a Japanese salaryman and two young Chinese-speaking customers. I was handed an English menu. They were perfectly organized to handle foreign customers. I chose the set menu with 8 skewers and I ordered a drink.

A course menu with only 5 skewers was also available.

The service was very fast. I was handed two condiments, grated radish and cabbage. They even gave me the customary wet towel.

The traditional five-spices condiment was also available (I never use it with yakitori).

The skewers arrived pretty quickly, not in the order of the menu, but the staff would tell me what it was in English. The first was the tsukune (chicken meatloaf).

The second skewer was sasame, a classic chicken breast with salt and wasabi.

There was also a cup of chicken soup.

Next was a skewer with duck meat flavored with miso (miso dengaku).

The fourth skewer was chicken liver barbecued with a sesame sauce.

Then there was kawa, a skewer with bits of chicken neck with soy sauce.

Next was butsu, chicken thigh simply barbecued with salt.

Then thee was a tebasaki skewer, chicken wings barbecued just with salt.

The last dish was a skewer with ginkgo seeds.

The action was fast and all the skewers were flavorful and perfectly cooked. I have read that the chef uses a chicken breed called Nagoya Cochin and roasts it over binchōtan charcoal that’s thinner than what’s regularly used at other yakitori places. The guy knows what he is doing.

At the end there was the option to have an ochazuke (additional charge), but I was happy with what I had.

The check

I spent 4,000 yen (37 USD) for the course menu and a drink. The soft drinks were priced at 800 yen, that is over the top, but the overall check was still honest. I found takechan on par with more sophisticated (and expensive) yakitori I have tried, just missing some of the more adventurous parts.

Where in Tokyo:
B1F, 4-8-13 Ginza, Chūō-ku.
東京都 中央区 銀座 4-8-13 銀座蟹睦会館ビル1F.

Cherng Doi Roast Chicken in Chiang Mai

There is no scarcity of chicken restaurants in Chiang Mai. Cherng Doi Roast Chicken stands out for its secret recipe conferring a unique crispiness to the chicken skin.

The visit

The restaurant is located in a quiet alley in Nimman area. (Attention, the closing time may vary depending on the time of the year.)

The tables are in a semi-covered courtyard.

Their most famous dish is number 1 on the menu.

Their dish is made out of chicken tights. It is basically boneless (apart some cartilage). The skin is indeed very crispy and seasoned. Yes, it is a very good dish, even if I still prefer another grilled chicken in Chiang Mai.

However, the diner is more than just grilled chicken. They have a large selection of local Thai dishes: papaya salad, soups, and meat salads.

I tried their fried papaya that was a revelation, an incredibly tasty dish.

The check

The two dishes and a drink costs me 180 THB (5.45 USD). An incredible value for some delicious dishes. I do not think their crispy skin chicken is necessarily a superior dish, but this is really a good choice if you are in Nimman area.

Where in Chiang Mai:
2/8 Suk Kasame Rd, Suthep, Mueang Chiang Mai.

Two chicken rice joints in Chiang Mai compared: Koyi and Uan Ocha

Koyi and Uan Ocha are two chicken rice joints in Chiang Mai that happened to be mentioned in the Thailand 2020 Michelin Guide. I had to check them out.

Koyi

Koyi is located at the margins of the fancy Nimman area.

It is a simple diner. I appreciated the metal stools.

They serve chicken either steamed or fried. You can have a platter with both and that’s what I opted for. Like in the tradition of chicken rice there was some cucumber as garnish. And also a piece of coagulated (pork?) blood. The rice was quite bland (not comparable to Hainanese chicken rice) and so the steamed chicken. The fried one on the other side was really good.

I even had an extra portion!

The set came with chili sauces and a seaweed soup (with a very distinct seaweed flavor).

A basic portion was 40 THB (a little over 1 USD).

Where in Chiang Mai:
69/3 Siri Mangkhalajarn Road, Mueang Chiang Mai.

Uan Ocha

Uan Ocha is in the Southern part of Chiang Mai. I could not locate it on Grab Car so I used as a reference a mall called @Curve. The restaurant is immediately before (coming from North).

Like Koyi, itis a classic diner, perhaps a bit more rustic than Koyi.

Also in this joint, they served either fried or steamed chicken or both. I had the mix platter again. While I did not like much the fried version, the steamed chicken was remarkable: very juicy and tasty. So I guess next time I will order the fried chicken from Koyi and the steamed one from this place. Neat.

There were the usual chili sauces, a chicken soup, and some pickles included.

A platter again was 40 THB.

I guess you can say that these are the cheapest Michelin-recommended venues in Chiang Mai, if that matters.

Where in Chiang Mai:
211/1 Chang Khlan Road, Mueang Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai’s Michelin-recommended grilled chicken: SP Chicken

SP Chicken is a long-running restaurant in Chiang Mai loved by locals and flocked by tourists. It was listed in the 2020 Thailand Michelin Guide as a Bib Gourmand. But is it really the best grilled chicken in Chiang Mai? Keep reading for my opinion.

The visit

SP Chicken is located in Chiang Mai’s Old City. It is a classic diner but quite comfortable, even with some seating in mini-booths. I sad on a stool as I was alone.

I had their celebrated grilled chicken that came with two sauces, one tamarind-based and one chili-based. Yes, the chicken was delicious, even if I was hoping in a bigger specimen. My portion was half chicken.

Then I had a spicy chicken soup that was also good.

They also have beef dishes, various salads and drinks.

Their dip sauces are handmade as you can see from their work station near the entrance.

The check

For half chicken, the soup, and a drik I spent 180 THB (5.50 USD). Great value for tasty and homemade food.

Now, do not get me wrong, I liked it, but in Chiang Mai the grilled chicken joint in Nimman Soi 11 in my opinion delivers a better product.

Where in Chiang Mai:
9/1 Sam Larn Soi 1, Phra Singh, Muang Chiang Mai.

Oyakodon dinner at Toritsune Shizendou in Tokyo

Oyakodon is is chicken meat and egg in seasoned broth over rice in a bowl. Oyako means parents and children, like chicken and egg, and don (donburi) means a bowl. I have always found it a cruel name. It is a simple dish good for lunch sets and quick dinners and it was purportedly invented in Tokyo.

I had it in Michelin-recommended restaurant in Akihabara called Toritsune Shizendou, the only venue that got recommended (Bib Gourmand) for this dish.

The visit

I went by the restaurant, housed in an independent building in a back alley near Suehirocho metro station, right after their afternoon closing time and I was able to speak to a lady and make a reservation for the same evening.

When I arrived I was seated at the counter. At 6pm I was one of the first customers. They also had some private rooms upstairs. But the place got busy pretty quickly, even if I think a walk-in for an individual customer may have still been possible. An English menu with pictures was available, but I think there were more options in the Japanese menu.

I had their signature Oyakodon that included a miso soup and some pickles. It was indeed delicious. All the elements were perfectly amalgamated together and every tiny piece of chicken was flawless (no cartilages or weird textures ruining the flavor).

But the restaurant also serves many other chicken-based dishes. I tried their chicken cutlet.

It was made out from one of the most perfect chicken breasts I have ever had.

Finally I had a specimen of their skewers with the infamous chicken dark meat. Again, the meat was flawless and very satisfying.

I can attest that all ingredients were top-shelf. According to their website, the owner-chef Mr. Sasaki handpicks whole chickens with internal organs and judges them. The reason for this is that the meat quality deteriorates faster if you remove the entrails (which is standard practice). The restaurant mainly uses female exemplars that are well-fattened, just before starting to lay eggs, 160-180 day old.

The check

Quality comes at a price. For these three dishes I paid almost 4,000 yen (36 USD). The bowl was 1,648 yen, the cutlet just 618 yen and the skewers a whooping 1,648 yen (there were also some other skewers similarly priced). It is a pity that the skewers had such a high price point, otherwise I would go back just for those and the cutlet.

Where in Tokyo:
5-5-2 Sotokanda.
Website: https://toritsuneshizendou.gorp.jp.

Flawless yakitori from Toriki, Tokyo

In my trips to Japan I always try to include a high-end yakitori (grilled chicken skewers). I had some particularly good in Osaka (Ueda and Ichimatsu). This was my first Michelin-starred yakitori in Tokyo. Please note that there is another restaurant with the same name in Shinagawa. The starred one where I went is in Sumida, near Kinshicho Station.

The visit

Needless to say, I had a reservation, for an early dinner (the exact time was chosen by the restaurant). At 5.30pm the door opened. I and three Japanese were the first customers and we were quickly seated.

I thought everyone had to be there at the same time, but other customers kept arriving at different times. So this was not a rule in this place.

On the table the drink menu was bilingual. I was also provided the translation of the skewers.

I just had a cold oolong tea.

I was sitting in front of the cooking station and I could observe the chef-owner cooking, making use of a fan to help the ventilation system and keeping the charcoal at the right temperature, and finishing the skewers with fine sea salt and yakitori sauce.

Chopsticks were presented with a small bowl of pickles and radish (to be used as a side, not replenished).

Appetizer: tomato, zucchini, salad, and cold shredded chicken breast.

Sabiyaki (chicken breast) with wasabi. It was supposed to be almost raw according to the menu, but it was mostly cooked. Flawless juicy tender meat. The wasabi was too spicy for my taste. The chicken was sourced from Kagoshima.

Sunagimo, gizzard. This is the kind of part that I can hardly eat in a normal yakitori place (just too chewy and hard), but here, be it the cooking (quite pink inside) or the quality of the chicken, it was excellent.

A slice of lemon was provided, but I hardly use condiments when the cooking is so perfect.

Palate cleanser: shredded raddish, with some plum jelly on top.

Small onion (Kotamanegi) and chicken tight (Kashiwa). Both delicious, especially the tight was much tender and juicy than usual.

Chigimo: liver, partly raw, with yakitori sauce. Another delicious skewer, the meat would melt in your mouth and had a nice bitter kickback.

Tsukune, chicken meatballs, recommended with lemon. This was a bit bland as compared to what I had in similar rstaurants. But good, with some tidbits of spring onion to boost the favor. Then there was a zucchini skewer that was carefully dipped in yakitori sauce during the cooking

Intermission: a chicken pot, with boiled carrot, artichoke, mushroom, and obviously chicken meat.

Here there was a pause to catch up with the new customers. The time was filled with conversation with my neighbors at the counter.

A matsusake mushroom with lime and soy sauce. The condiments in this case did enhance the flavor.

Kawa: crispy chicken skin. Crispy, but still tender inside. Great.

We were offered an half small tomato as a palate cleanser.

Tebayaki (chicken wing with bones) and shiratama (quail egg) with some salt for the eggs.

The chef taught me how to pull the bones that came out easily (you just need to lift them). The meat, still with its skin, was again so perfectly cooked. Not too hot, and still juicy inside.

Ginnan: ginkgo nuts.

Chicken soup with onion stripes.

Bowls of rice were available as an add-on, but I was fine at this point.

Japanese and Chinese spices were available along soy sauce, but I did not use them.

It took a little over 2 hours.

The check

The cost for the course menu and a drink was 7,535 yen (800 yen as service charge) or 70 USD. It was reasonable.

I found the whole experience pleasant, even if the timing was big dragged, and I would recommend it to other yakitori fans The menu however lacked the adventurous twists of Ueda and Ichimatsu I mentioned earlier.

Where in Tokyo:
1-8-13, Kinshi, Sumida-ku, Tokyo, 130-0013
In Japanese: 〒130-0013 東京都墨田区錦糸1-8-13 小坂ビル1F.
(3 minutes from Kinshicho Station, take North exit.)

Spectacular yakitori omakase in Osaka: Ichimatsu

In my summer 2019 trip to Osaka, I was able to score again a perfect yakitori in Osaka. This time was Ichimatsu (焼鳥 市松), one of the two yakitori restaurants in town awarded a Michelin star.

The visit

I had a reservation made through an online service (it was totally worth the 800 yen spent). They have two turns for night. I joined the second one at 8.15pm. On a Thursday night, all seats were spoken for. The counter hosted 10 people and there was a small private room for 5 additional covers. The restaurant has a very understated store-front as usual for this kind of restaurants.

The welcome dish was warm ricotta cheese.

I just drank Fuji Water. Another opening dish was a small piece of chicken breast sashimi (it is always incredible how good it is… Japan is the only place where I would eat raw chicken), with a soy sauce mousse and sesame oil powder (this dish is not pictured).

The first skewer was chicken neck. It was a bit chewy.

Next was a skewer with what was described as the external part of the gizzard. It was nice as every skewer would carry new flavors.

Meantime we were offered some thinly-cut radish with soy sauce and olive oil. This side dish was replenished on demand.

The next dish was one of the most unique of the evening: chicken’s Fallopian tubes. I can say that they were sweet.

The next skewer was a classic: chicken skin.

Next we were offered some grilled shishisto pepper.

The next two dishes marked a departure from chicken. The first was a delicious piece of pork with vinegar. I believe the pork was from Kagoshima.

Then we had a Chinese-inspired duck broth with tofu and rice sauce.


Then we were back to chicken with a substantial wing, lightly crispy and salty.

The next dish included a piece of Japanese orange, marinated tomato, and (on the bottom) a specimen of chicken ovaries. It was basically what comes before the egg. It popped in the mouth with flavorful liquids.

Another soup had char-grilled duck with green onions and Japanese peppers, to mix.

An exotic chicken part came next: marinated kidney to wrap in a leave of lettuce. It was surprisingly delicious.

The mandatory meatball was a little rare and dripping-juicy. Every yakitori chef has a personal recipe for this skewer. It also usually marks the final part of the course.

In the end we were offered rice with cabbage and corn, chicken soup, ginger pickle. At this point it was also possible to order additional skewers from a menu.


A cup of tea completed the meal.

The check

The check was 9,850 yen (88.65 USD). It was on the pricey side, but everything was executed so well that I did not mind. It is not an experience for everyone, but if you like strong flavors and skewers, this is probably one of the best in Osaka

Where in Osaka:
1-chome-5-1 Dojima Kita-ku
In Japanese: 大阪府 大阪市北区 堂島 1-5-1 エスパス北新地23・1F.

Curated Italian cuisine at Into the Kitchens in Ho Chi Minh City (closed)

During my summer 2019 trip to Ho Chi Minh City I was recommended to check out a new Italian eatery in District 1 called Into the Kitchen, started by the former Italian chef of a high-end restaurant in town.

The visit

I went to the restaurant for a late dinner.

The restaurant is located inside a courtyard.

It is a casual restaurant including a bar.

They gave me a complimentary basket of flat-bread with a nice tomato sauce dip. My order was handled by a very professional Vietnamese young lady that knew about Italian cuisine and service.

The menu was intriguing. Instead of the classic headings (appetizers, mains, pasta, etc.) they had the dishes mixed in different categories such as hearty food, Mediterranean and veggies, from the sea, from the grill, etc. A lot of meat is available, including an interesting veal skirt and baked pumpkin flowers.

I had their pici (a type of eggless pasta you do not find often in Asia) with duck ragout. I enjoyed very much! This type of pasta has a velvety texture that makes it very distinct.

As I was still unsatisfied by the cockerel that I had at Quince, I ordered their rotisserie baby chicken (a whole one). It was marinated and rubbed with honey and ginger. It came with roasted potatoes and chily gravy. It was excellent (even if my best chicken of the summer was the one in Chiang Mai).

The check

The check was 610,000 VND (or 26 USD). I cannot complain. Everything from the food to the service was to my satisfaction. Definitely a place to visit again.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
158/5 Nguyễn Công Trứ
Visit their Facebook page to see the menu.

Update 2020: sadly the restaurant is now closed. The chef moved on and took up a position at the Caravelle Hotel.

Why Quince is great for Saigon (even if I did not like everything about it)

Quince Saigon is the Vietnamese outpost of a Quince Eatery in Bangkok, managed by Farandole group. It has been a very hyped restaurant and you can find tons of positive reviews online. Certainly a sign of Saigon’s evolving food scene.

I tried Quince for the first time in summer 2018 and I thought that it would not have been fair to write a review on the basis of just a single visit. So I came back again in my summer 2019 trip to get a better idea.

The visit(s)

Located in the outskirts of district 1 in a rapidly developing area famous for its hardware stores and a military surplus market, the interior of the restaurant exudes modernity and class. As a solo diner, I find the long counter a very nice feature (and I sat there on both of my visits). Let’s start with my 2019 visit.

I started with an octopus casserole. The octopus was tender and all the condiments right. Really enjoyed the dish.

Then I was craving for chicken (this was the beginning of my summer 2019 chicken quest that culminated in Chiang Mai…) and I was attracted by a roast French cockerel (coquelet) on the menu. It was ok, but there was really little meat (which is normal for this kind of chicken, in fact I was expecting a whole one, the menu did not help).

The chicken came with some potatoes and greens.

I had also ordered a dish of greens with an homemade anchovy sauce that was brilliant (the flavor reminded me of Japanese sauces) but I was a bit upset because nobody told me that the chicken was already coming with some greens. It was not clear at all from the menu that, using a modern style, only indicated the main ingredients of the dish without more details. If I knew about it, I would have ordered something else.

While I was eating the salad I was abruptly interrupted by the waitress that wanted to clean the table from the chicken plate. She literally interrupted me while I was chewing. This kind of things make me upset not with the service staff, but with the management that should have trained them in a better way.

No dessert, but the check was accompanied by some jellies.

And now a look at my 2018 visit.

My first dish was an interesting beef tartare. It was not your usual tartare. It was copiously sprinkled with dried egg yolk and rich of ingredients (I appreciated the capers). Overall a very good creative dish.

My main was a veal cheek with mash and cherry tomatoes. There was a good balancing of flavors among the three main ingredients of the dish. However the veal was quite dry contrary to my expectations.

The cauliflower with cream that I ordered as a side was full of flavor and simply great.

I also enjoyed a Vietnamese red tea.

Finally I had some room for a dessert: a scoop of Ralf’s chocolate gelato. Good of them that found the best in town.

The final complimentary jellies were already there.

The check(s)

The 2019 visit cost me 1,218,525 VND (52 USD), including a super expensive bottle of water!

The previous visit cost me basically the same (the tea was much less expensive than the water).

By international standards, it was quite reasonable. Being in Saigon, the cost opportunity is not negligible.

After these visits and after speaking with F&B professionals in Saigon I realized one thing: Quince has been and is great for the development of Saigon’s restaurant community. The head chef, Julien Perraudin, has an amazing curriculum and is a true creative force. The creativity is reflected in his dishes and the menu changes frequently depending on the quality ingredients available. Do not expect to find the dishes I described. All of this creative power is trickling down to the wider community and is helping in modernizing Saigon’s food scene. Great.

What left me with mixed feelings, especially after the second visit, was the lack of clarity on the menu. I hope I could have had a more in-depth conversation about the food to order with the chef (but he was, rightfully so, busy) or some knowledgeable staff. This would have made the experience more streamlined. I would gladly go back if chef Perraudin was to offer a tasting menu or to try some specific dishes.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
37bis Ký Con Street, District 1
Follow their Facebook page.

An impressively good grilled chicken in Chiang Mai

The title pretty much summarizes the review… I had in Chiang Mai the best chicken of my 2019 summer… and it was in a simple street-side shop called ร้านไก่ย่างวิเชียรบุรี”นิมมาน”ซอย11 in Thai or Kai Yang Wichian Nimmanhemin_Soi_11 in some translations. Below you can see a picture of the storefront, but the smoke will be your best cue.

The visit

The place is difficult to miss. It produces so much smoke from the perennially lit up grill (I guess the neighbors may not be happy). I noticed the place one day and after some research I found out that it was actually pretty popular. I went back the day after and I had one of the best grilled chicken ever. It is located in a spartan shack and you will seat on a plastic stool. Menu is in Thai, but with pictures. The staff seems to be friendly with foreigners. I spotted a mix of locals and Chinese tourists.

The menu features a number of other Thai dishes (their pork soup called tom saap seemed interesting and they have an adventurous salad with fermented dish, just saying), but I went straight for the chicken and I was quickly served a full one. It was tender, meaty enough, juicy, everything that a good grilled chicken should be.

I was so impressed that I had an additional half. The dipping sauce was pretty phenomenal too: it was a kind of homemade tamarind sauce, not too sweet and a bit spicy.

They are not on the menu, but they also grill the chicken livers, hearts, feet, and wings in skewers. They cost less than 1 USD per skewer.

The check

I spent 240 THB for one chicken and half (160 THB or 5.20 USD is the price for one chicken). Sometimes the best does not need to be the most expensive. I’ll be back.

Where in Chiang Mai:
NimmanHaemin Soi 11
(It is next to Grace Dental Care Clinic, you can use it as a destination if you use Grab.)