Tag: tonkatsu

Serving tonkatsu for 80 years and counting: Tonki in Meguro

Tonki, in Meguro, has been running for over 80 years: it was founded in 1939. They specialize in one dish: tonkatsu (the Japanese pork cutlet). Both locals and tourists queue for their cutlet.

The visit

I went on a Saturday evening in late December. It was early, but there was a massive backlog of customers. Luckily I could seat inside.

They have seats for waiting customers behind the guests at the counter. As soon as I stepped inside, still standing, I was shown the menu, basically two options, hire-katsu (fillet, lean meat, 130 grams) and rohsu-katsu (loin, some fatty on meat, 160 grams). It was a flash. I chose the classic loin. The the waiting began. It took almost one hour before I was seated.

Meantime, observing the staff impeccably dressed in white frying and preparing side dishes in a fast and steady manner in the open kitchen helped to kill some time.

Finally I was seated and I got a tea and a wet towel.

The set included pickles, rice, miso soup, finely shredded cabbage, a slice of tomato, and mustard. Of course they also had their own tonkatsu sauce (the recipe is secret). It took another 15 minutes to get the set.

And now let’s get to the cutlet. Apparently they soak the pork meat in three layers of batter before adding the bread crumbs, then they fry for 20 minutes. The result was a thin but firm batter enclosing the meat perfectly cooked. The breaded casing did not adhere to the meat, so it was a bit annoying trying to combine the two elements while eating. I also found the cutlet a bit oily.

The check

The set cost 2,100 yen (around 19.5 USD). This was an old school tonkatsu. It was good but not great. For what it was, 2,100 yen was pricey, but you pay for the history surrounding the place. Honestly, I preferred the tonkatsu from Maisen and Butagumi: they have better meat (even aged) and the batter is crispier (and in the end their entry level set are only marginally more expensive than this). I did not regret going, but I would not particularly recommend it.

Where in Tokyo:
1-1-2 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku.
In Japanese: 東京都目黒区下目黒1-1-2.

Butagumi, the tonkatsu trendsetter in Tokyo

Butagumi is a restaurant in Tokyo that has made a name for itself for elevating the simple tonkatsu to a fine dining experience. I must say that I do not think this is a completely new concept, Maisen does it (at least in their original location in Omotesando). However, Bugagumi has its own vibe and uniqueness.

The visit

I headed to the restaurant on an evening with a reservation. Unfortunately it was located quite far away (1km) from the nearest metro station, but I did not mind taking a walk. The restaurant occupies a traditional house in a quiet district that mixes residential buildings and several discreet eateries.

I was the first person to show up on that evening (at around 6pm). They had some trouble finding my reservation, but eventually I was escorted to a dining room upstairs. I was alone. The dining rooms are normal living quarters, the atmosphere is intimate. It is like dining in a private house and can host a total of less than 40 guests.

The first unique feature of the restaurant that struck me was the long list of pork varieties. There were more than 20 listed on the menu, but only half dozen were available (and I think are available at any given time). Still, the choice was amazing and for each variety it was possible to choose different cuts. I was attracted by the Himuro-Buta brand from Gunma, because it was described as aged for two months. Also, it was possible to ask for the belly, a very unusual cut for a tonkatsu (that usually is based on the loin or the fillet sometimes).

While my order was being prepared downstairs, I was served a complimentary amuse bouche (cherry tomato, pork, and a cracker with cheese. You would expect this kind of amuse bouche in a fine dining establishment and I guess this was the message.

I soon got the tonkatsu with a number of side dishes: rice, cabbage, pickles, and miso soup. It was over 200 grams.

The tonkatsu did not disappoint. It was different from any other tonkatsu I ever had. The pork belly was of course full of fat, but it did not bother and it merged well with the crust that was deep and soft at the same time.

Tonkatsu sauce and mustard were available along with the sauce for the cabbage.

I also had an additional side dish, a marinated eggplant.

The check

The total check was 4,100 yen (37.5 USD) with the tonkatsu set accounting for 3,200 yen (it was not the most expensive, some varieties of pork would exceed 5,000 yen). For a tonkatsu is a hansome sum of money (a tonkatsu set can cost as little as 10 USD even in central Tokyo). However I accept the philosophy of the restaurant and the search for great pork meat around Japan that kind of justify the higher price point.

Bonus: Butagumi for lunch at Roppongi Hills

Butagumi also operates a spin-off restaurant in the shopping complex of Roppongi Hills. I tried it as well for lunch!

It looked popular for lunch, but I arrived before noon and I dodged the lunch crowd. The picture above was taken when I was leaving.

I was seated at the counter where I could watch the frying at close range.

The menu was much simpler than in their main restaurant and there were only two types of pork meat: regular and premium brand. The exact provenance depends on daily stock. The regular brand includes pork from Chiba and Okinawa. The premium may mean pork from Gifu (natto-eating pork!) or Kagoshima; Matsusaka or Shirokane brands. I had their “small” 110-gram premium tonkatsu.

It came with the classic side dishes. Overall I found it quite ordinary.

Considering the price (1,980 yen or 18 USD) not sure about the value for money. I do not think that choosing the premium brand added anything and I would recommend to skip this venue, but still try the main restaurant for a more interesting experience.

Where in Tokyo:
Main restaurant: 2-24-9 Nishiazabu.
Roppongi Hills branch (B2F): Roppongi 6-2-31 (connected to exit 1 of Roppongi Hills metro station).
Website (in Japanese): http://www.butagumi.com.

Delicious gyukatsu in Nagasaki

Gyukatsu (a fried beef cutlet with the beef rare inside) is one of my favorite dishes. It is not so popular though. I will share my visit to a simple shop in Nagasaki (only with a Japanese name, 勝鹿 かつしか) that served an excellent specimen of this dish.

The visit

I came across the shop on a Sunday. I was the first customer for a very early lunch.

The menu was in Japanese but quite simple to decode. I asked for the gyukatsu set (the one with one portion and half) and an iced tea.

The spectacular set had the gyukatsu, juicy and rare, miso soup, rice, cabbage salad, pickles.

The check

I paid 2,009 yen (18.65 USD), not the cheapest lunch set, but the quality was there. They also specialized in tonkatsu that would have been interesting to try.

Where in Nagasaki:
5-25, 1F, Kagomachi.
In Japanese: 〒850-0905 長崎県長崎市籠町５−25 1F.

Toruko rice in a traditional cafe in Nagasaki

Toruko rice is a popular dish in Nagasaki. It brings together pilaf rice, pork cutlet (tonkatsu), spaghetti, and, for good measure, everything is covered with demi glace sauce. How it came about and why the name included “Toruko” (Turkish) will remain a mystery.* Nevertheless, it is one of those Western-inspired dishes that found in Nagasaki the perfect ground thanks to centuries of foreign influences. It can be found in every cafe in town and there are infinite variations.

The visit

I tried the dish in a cafe called Nicky Arnstein (or Nicky Earth Tin Hamamachi in the backtranslation from Japanese ニッキー・アースティン浜町店 that you can find sometimes on the web, including on Google Map) in a side street of the Hamamachi covered shopping street. The cafe was started in 1973 and apparently it was named after the owner’s favorite character (from Funny Girl musical).

The cafe is quite old and at dinner time it was empty. What was remarkable was the phone-directory-size menu with hundreds of permutations in the ingredients of the dish.

They only have a Japanese menu, but they show some exemplars in the shop window. I opted for one version with a fried pork meatball, potato croquettes (I asked for an additional one), beef strips and the rest. It was a filling dish as you can imagine; my spaghetti were under-cooked though.

The check

It cost me 1,108 yen (a little over 10 USD), including 100 yen for the extra croquette. It is the cost of a normal lunch set in most places. Should I visit Nagasaki again, I will probably keep room in my belly for something more interesting.

Where in Nagasaki:
2-20 Hamamachi.
In Japanese: 長崎県長崎市浜町2-20.

*This blogger seems to have a rational explanation for the name… but it is all speculation anyway.

Ginza Bairin tonkatsu in Shanghai (closed)

Like Maisen and Saboten, Ginza Bairin is an old Japanese tonkatsu joint that became a large chain with overseas branches. I have not been at the original shop in Ginza, Tokyo, but I have visited two shops in Shanghai.

The visit (IFC)

One of their stores is on the fourth floor of IFC mall in Pudong.

Inside they have a variety of sitting arrangements.

I ordered their signature tonkatsu that is different from usual: it is a fillet cut (not the usual loin) and the standard portion comes with three pieces. The fillet is pinkish inside and the meat is imported from Japan. It was tender and spotless meat.

They also have other deep fried dishes: scallop, beef, salmon, white fish, prawns… it is possible to combine them to make a customized platter. They have on the menu the katsu sando (pork cutlet sandwich) but, to my dismay, it was not available at the time of this visit.

For lunch, they had a special set that also included rice, pickles, egg custard, and miso soup.

One important part of the experience is the special house tonkatsu sauce, to add a sweet flavor to the cutlet. They claim that “originated in 1927, this sauce is a sweet blend of spices, apples and vegetables. Its smooth yet rich taste is unique to Ginza Bairin”. Also the more common sesame dressing was available and a spicy wasabi dressing as well.

I also tried an additional dish: egg omelette with eel. It was just ok. The rest of the menu is extensive, but not really attractive to me.

The check (IFC)

The lunch set was 108 RMB (16 USD) and the egg dish was 58 RMB (8.6 USD). Not having visited the original store in Tokyo I cannot comment on the authenticity. Overall was good, but I was not carried away like in Saboten (but it was Taipei). My impression is that in order to cater to the local customers they have lost the focus on the pork cutlet and other deep fried dishes and tried to offer a more complete Japanese food menu including sushi and sashimi. I would not recommend it for Japanese food other than tonkatsu.

The visit (Hongqiao Airport)

Curiously, I came across a Ginza Bairin branch at Hongqiao Airport (airside, near the international departure gates). Food in Chinese airports is usually so bad that was like a mirage.

I also had the pork fillet lunch set, that came with rice and miso soup.

The usual set of sauces.

The lunch set had fewer sides than the one at IFC, but here I got a scoop of green tea ice cream included in the price.

The check (Hongqiao Airport)

The price was slightly more expensive than the IFC lunch set at 118 RMB or 17.5 USD (please note that there was a mistake on the pictured receipt, it was a fillet tonkatsu, not a loin).

Where in Shanghai:
Hongqiao Airport Branch: Terminal 1 International Departure Airside Mezzanine Floor I-206.
IFC: Shop 9-10, 4/F, Shanghai IFC mall, 8 Century Avenue, Lujiazui, Pudong New Area.
On June 2020 the IFC location was closed and I could not find indication of the Hongqiao location anywhere.

Authentic Japanese tonkatsu in Taipei: Saboten

Established in 1966, with 500 outlets worlwide, Saboten is a Japanese tonkatsu institution (like Maisen, but with a bigger international presence). The restaurant chain has perfected the art of the Japanese cutlet: they use a selected breed of grain and barely fed matured pig for their signature dishes; cutlet’s breadcrumbs are freshly grated to give the light, crispy and non-greasy texture; the side rice is Uonuma Koshihikari rice from Japan. In other words, they elevated tonkatsu to a gourmet experience.

The visit

I first visited Saboten in Taipei; it was one of the restaurants on top of Mistuskoshi department store near Taipei Main Station. This is also my first review of an experience in Taiwan.

The experience starts with the sesame bowl: you can smash the sesame and add the tonkatsu sauce. You are also provided by default with cabbage, some pickles and tea.

I had one of their specials: along with a classic loin tonkatsu I got some additional pieces filled with sea urchin. They were both excellent (but the tonkatsu did not reach the level of Maisen in Tokyo).

The miso soup was included. I and a friend also had some additional dishes: cutlet with minced pork meat and pork rolls filled with asparagus and cheese. All very good.

At the end of the meal we were offered a shot of plum drink.

The check

The two of us spent 1276 NTD (around 42 USD). That would be around 21 USD per person for a lunch set and the additional dishes.  The price is reasonable for a lunch experience and the quality of the food.

Where in Taipei:
Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Station Front Store
12th Floor, No. 66, Section 1, Zhongxiao West Road, Zhongzheng District
Many other locations in Taipei and Taiwan listed on their website.

The Tokyo Tonkatsu Temple: Maisen

While in Omotesando (Tokyo) in September 2018, I had a chance to try the famed pork cutlet (tonkatsu) from Maisen.

Maisen is a household name for tonkatsu in Japan. They started in 1965 and operate a number of restaurants nationwide, they have kiosks in some luxury supermarkets and they also have outlets overseas in South East Asia. From what I understand they are now part of the Suntory Group.

I am glad to report that the place lived up to its reputation and I had an extraordinarily good tonkatsu.

The visit

At their Ayoama Main Store there is usually a line, but I was quite late for lunch and I just waited a couple of minutes. They have a counter that is honestly not a very attractive place where to seat (maybe good for a quick bite), but luckily, even if I was alone, I was offered a seat at a table in the dining room downstairs. Apart from the more casual counter seating, their dining room fits the bill for fine dining in terms for service and decor.

They have various tonkastu sets and variations to choose from. Up to five brand of pork may be available.

In the end, I opted for Amai Yuwaku pork (Sweet Temptation), the pork breed that was developed by Maisen itself and its unique to their stores in limited quantities. I found online an explanation about what is special about this breed:

The hogs are fed on the bread crusts produced during the making of their pork fillet cutlet sandwiches. Maisen spent roughly two years to develop the product, working together with pig farmers and feed companies. The company launched a menu using Amai Yuwaku pork in December of 2012 at the main restaurant in Aoyama (Tokyo), and then deployed it to other restaurants. The name (Sweet Temptation in English) comes from the delicately tender meatiness, the sweetly melting fattiness, and the juicy and rich taste that is embossed into the tongue. Leveraging the bread crusts as fattening feed helps better digestion, producing meatier pork with less fat.

Apart from the way the hogs are raised, Maisen also applies to this pork an aging process that breaks muscles filaments and make the meat even more tender.

Hype? Not really. This pork was divine, not to mention the perfect crust. It was really tender and soft like I rarely experienced a pork cutlet. In particular, I opted for a 100 gram loin (that has some fat), but they also have the fillet for a fully lean piece of meat.

The set also came with the mandatory pickles, rice, cabbage, and a bowl of miso soup.

The meat was so good that did not really need any sauce, but I did try their tonkatsu sauce that augment the sweetness of the bite. They also have worchester sauce. Finally, as usual, you are also provided some mustard.

I added to my selection a minced pork cutlet with melted cheese. I expected a small side dish, it was actually a huge portion. It can also be ordered without cheese, but with cheese is better in my opinion. This minced cutlet is also a popular street food in Japan.

Outside the store, they operate a kiosk where to buy take-away food. The minced meat cutlet is available.

My only regret was that I did not have time to try their pork cutlet sandwich (katsu sando). It looks really attractive.

The check

The set menu plus the additional minced meat cutlet cost me 2,760 yen (around 25 USD). Cutlet lunch sets can be found around Tokyo for as little as 1,000 yen, but nothing approaching this quality. The premium price is totally justified in my opinion. If you opt for a fillet cut or some other more exotic pork breeds you bill can easily increase, but within the realm of reasonableness in my view. I also appreciate that prices are inclusive of taxes and service charges and that tea was included.

As you can tell, I was very happy about this meal and I fully recommend the place.

Where in Tokyo:
The Ayoama Main store is close to Omotesando subway stop on Ginza line.
 4 Chome-8-５ Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0001, Japan
They have other locations as well. Check their website.

The real tonkatsu experience at Fujiro in Ho Chi Minh City

Tonkatsu is the Japanese pork cutlet. In Japan, it is a common item found in lunch sets everywhere but there are even restaurants specifically dedicated to tonkatsu using only the best pork breeds. There is a certain way to it. In Ho Chi Minh City, tonkatsu is a popular dish, but there is one place where to try the full Japanese pork cutlet experience: Fujiro. I read about Fujiro on the Saigoneer, that has a very nice series on “hem gems”, interesting eateries located in alleyways (“hem” in Vietnamese). Not surprisingly, the restaurant is located in the unofficial Saigon’s Japan Town: a net of alleyways between Le Than Ton and Thai Van Lung.

The visit

I went for lunch on a weekday, shortly after noon. The restaurant was already packed and a group of salarymen (I like to think so) was waiting for their turn to occupy a booth. Since I was alone, they let me pass and I was accommodated at the wall counter. Outside they have their menu on display through plastic models: tonkatsu is served in a variety of ways, including with omelette and rice, curry, and fried prawns.

I found the seating perfectly suitable for a quick lunch. By the way, the pictures reflect the situation in July-August 2018; I noticed that they were remodeling a store next door into a restaurant… I suspect they may be moving soon.

The photo above shows why you go to Fujiro. Their jewel of the crown is a special 3 centimeter thick tonkatsu made of pork loin. That was what I ordered.

The set also includes rice, miso soup, some radish and pickles.

The experience would not be complete without mustard and…

…tonkatsu sauce that can be added to this bowl of sesame seeds. According to the tradition, the guest has the privilege to smash the seeds before pouring the sauce.

The thick tonkatsu was something majestic. Perfectly cooked, thickly battered, and with a tad of fat to make the meat even more tasty.

The check

This was one of the most expensive lunch sets on their menu. After tax, it cost me 198,000 VND, that is 8.50 USD. This is a price difficult to question or beat for this kind of quality. You can find cheaper versions, but not this one. And of course, they also serve the normal tonkatsu at a lower price.

And here is a dish I would not mind to try next time.

Finally, it is worth noting that they have the menu available in Japanese, English, Korean and Vietnamese.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
8A/5B1 Thái Văn Lung (it is not on the main road, you have the enter the net of alleyways and find your way around).
At time of writing, it is open daily, 11am-2pm for lunch and 5.30pm to 10pm (9.30 on weekends) for dinner.
Check their Facebook page for more photos.