Butagumi is a restaurant in Tokyo that has made a name for itself for elevating the simple tonkatsu to a fine dining experience. I must say that I do not think this is a completely new concept, Maisen does it (at least in their original location in Omotesando). However, Bugagumi has its own vibe and uniqueness.
The visit
I headed to the restaurant on an evening with a reservation. Unfortunately it was located quite far away (1km) from the nearest metro station, but I did not mind taking a walk. The restaurant occupies a traditional house in a quiet district that mixes residential buildings and several discreet eateries.
I was the first person to show up on that evening (at around 6pm). They had some trouble finding my reservation, but eventually I was escorted to a dining room upstairs. I was alone. The dining rooms are normal living quarters, the atmosphere is intimate. It is like dining in a private house and can host a total of less than 40 guests.
The first unique feature of the restaurant that struck me was the long list of pork varieties. There were more than 20 listed on the menu, but only half dozen were available (and I think are available at any given time). Still, the choice was amazing and for each variety it was possible to choose different cuts. I was attracted by the Himuro-Buta brand from Gunma, because it was described as aged for two months. Also, it was possible to ask for the belly, a very unusual cut for a tonkatsu (that usually is based on the loin or the fillet sometimes).
While my order was being prepared downstairs, I was served a complimentary amuse bouche (cherry tomato, pork, and a cracker with cheese. You would expect this kind of amuse bouche in a fine dining establishment and I guess this was the message.
I soon got the tonkatsu with a number of side dishes: rice, cabbage, pickles, and miso soup. It was over 200 grams.
The tonkatsu did not disappoint. It was different from any other tonkatsu I ever had. The pork belly was of course full of fat, but it did not bother and it merged well with the crust that was deep and soft at the same time.
Tonkatsu sauce and mustard were available along with the sauce for the cabbage.
I also had an additional side dish, a marinated eggplant.
The check
The total check was 4,100 yen (37.5 USD) with the tonkatsu set accounting for 3,200 yen (it was not the most expensive, some varieties of pork would exceed 5,000 yen). For a tonkatsu is a hansome sum of money (a tonkatsu set can cost as little as 10 USD even in central Tokyo). However I accept the philosophy of the restaurant and the search for great pork meat around Japan that kind of justify the higher price point.
Bonus: Butagumi for lunch at Roppongi Hills
Butagumi also operates a spin-off restaurant in the shopping complex of Roppongi Hills. I tried it as well for lunch!
It looked popular for lunch, but I arrived before noon and I dodged the lunch crowd. The picture above was taken when I was leaving.
I was seated at the counter where I could watch the frying at close range.
The menu was much simpler than in their main restaurant and there were only two types of pork meat: regular and premium brand. The exact provenance depends on daily stock. The regular brand includes pork from Chiba and Okinawa. The premium may mean pork from Gifu (natto-eating pork!) or Kagoshima; Matsusaka or Shirokane brands. I had their “small” 110-gram premium tonkatsu.
It came with the classic side dishes. Overall I found it quite ordinary.
Considering the price (1,980 yen or 18 USD) not sure about the value for money. I do not think that choosing the premium brand added anything and I would recommend to skip this venue, but still try the main restaurant for a more interesting experience.
Where in Tokyo:
Main restaurant: 2-24-9 Nishiazabu.
Roppongi Hills branch (B2F): Roppongi 6-2-31 (connected to exit 1 of Roppongi Hills metro station).
Website (in Japanese): http://www.butagumi.com.