In August 2019, I spent two days in Chiang Rai and my main goal was to do the touristy things (the White Temple, the Blue Temple, the Black House). I reached Chianag Rai by bus from Chiang Mai (there was almost one hour delay because the road was still in very bad shape due to past floods, not sure when they will fix it, works seemed to be halted. It would be quicker to take a flight from Bangkok). However I also extensively researched the local restaurant scene reading reviews and fora. I was able to handpick some interesting restaurants. On the other side, I avoided eating at two very popular tourist spots in Chiang Rai: the Night Bazar and the weekend walking streets (I visited the one on Saturday and it was huge, but relatively little food) so I won’t be able to comment on street food. This write up is in no way exhaustive, but if you like good restaurants wherever you go, maybe you can pick some good ideas.
Vegetarian bagels and burgers at Yoddoi
428/7 Thanon Baanpa Pragarn Rd | Near Clock Tower.
My first stop was at Yoddoi Coffee and Tea, just across the famous Clock Tower. They had an extensive menu of vegetarian bagels and burgers. They were both good (I had a burger with a massaman curry patty and a bagel with hummus – the bagel was very tender). Yoddoi means “top of the mountain” and it is a reference to the farm that owns the coffee shop. In the store, they sell coffee beans and green tea harvested in their farm (I think they could make great gifts to bring home).
Western comfort food at The Steak Specialists
868/2, Phahonyothin Rd, Website: www.steak-specialists.com
One rainy evening I found refuge in this Western restaurant owned by a Thai/German couple. I had a caprese salad and their cordon bleu that was a big chunk. The steaks seemed to be the best part of the menu. It seems to be one of the best places for Western food in Chiang Rai. For a large party I would make a reservation (see their website).
Two stylish cafes for cakes and drinks
Melt in your mouth: 268 Moo 21 Kho Loi, Robvieng, Chiang Rai.
Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House, Bistro & Bar: 179 Moo 2 Bannrongseartean Soi 3, Chiang Rai. Website: www.chivitthammada.com.
I visited Melt in Your Mouth (see gallery) and Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House for desserts. They were both beautifully decorated venues. The first was tucked in a corner of a park and it felt like being in the jungle. I had a pancake with ice cream and a herbal infusion. Chivit Thamma Da was at a walking distance from the Blue Temple and I had the very best banoffee chocolate cake I ever tasted in Thailand (unfortunately no pictures as my batteries were too low). Both venues, especially Chivit Thamma Da, also provide full dinner and lunch menus.
A fancy Northern Thai restaurant: Paam Sai Aua
Paam Sai Aua was a relatively new restaurant at the time of my visit in Chiang Rai. It defined itself “fusion Northern”. I am not sure what they meant by “fusion”; probably they refers to the presence on the menu of some Western dishes such as pasta (that now seems to be so popular in Thailand). I had a few typical dishes: a Northern herbal sausage (very delicate, good), a pork knuckle (quite good), and a soup. The restaurant also sells spices, honey, and other local products. It was certainly expensive by Thai standards. The most impressive thing about the restaurant was its location. A newly-built wooden house with high ceilings.
A very local restaurant: Lab Sanam Keera
Address: 123 Moo 22, Tambon Robwiang, Amphoe Mueang Chiang Rai.
This is a very popular restaurant with locals that I got to know thanks to food blogger and youtuber extraordinaire Mark Wiens (see his long review). If you wish some authentic and affordably priced local food, this is the place to visit. The setting is more spartan than the other venues I visited (it is an open air veranda), but the service was good. I had their signature garlic fried fish (a river fish topped by a mountain of garlic). The fish in chunks with no bones. I had an omelette as a side and that’s it. They have a picture menu for foreigners that I photographed.
What I missed
During my research a spot kept coming up as the most interesting dining destination in Chiang Rai: Locus (I contacted them via their Facebook page). Headed by a young chef, it promised to deliver an outstanding food experience based on local ingredients. Sadly the restaurant was closed during my visit, but I totally recommend you to check it out. At the time of my visit (August 2019) the dinner set was around 1,500 THB.
Finally, with the right amount of time, it would be interesting to explore the mountains around Chiang Rai for at least two reasons. First, visiting an organic farm (there are many) could be interesting. Rai Ruen Rom farm is often mentioned to this end. Second, at 50 km from Chiang Rai there is a Chinese village called Santikhiri (follow the link to the Wikipedia entry to learn about its weird history) that is now accessible to tourists where to see how a Chinese community has maintained (or evolved) its culinary traditions over the past half century.