Vietnamese love Japanese food and there are new sushi restaurants springing up on a regular basis in Ho Chi Minh City. Omakase is another story. As you might already know, omakase means “I leave it to you” and indicates the next level of Japanese cuisine. The term is usually employed in relation to sushi and is a code word for a high-level dining experience.
The first restaurant to offer a serious omakase in Saigon, according to my knowledge, was Sushi Rei back in 2016 or so. It is still open at the time of this post. I never tried it as the cost is 3,000,000 VND (around 140 USD, probably excluding tax) and I am willing to spend that kind of money for an omakase only when I travel in Japan. Let’s say that this is the “ugly” one because of the price (but if price is no object, by all means try it and let me know!).
There are two very good omakase in Saigon that I enjoyed. One is Kiyota Sushi Sake Restaurant. Very nice atmosphere, you are served at the counter like in a real Japanese omakase restaurant and the seafood is top quality. I personally tried their 1,200,000 VND menu (52 USD) that included an appetizer, five kinds of sashimi, grilled fish, vinegar fish, steamed eggs, 8 kinds of nigiri sushi, miso soup, and dessert. They also had a more expensive and a cheaper menu. I must also say that the service was top-notch both during the meal and before in my communications on Facebook. Unfortunately my phone was unavailable during my dinner and I was not able to take pictures, so I cannot post a review. Another excellent omakase (but it is not sushi, it is tempura) is Hanabi Japanese Cuisine that I already reviewed and I continue to recommend. In both cases, a Japanese chef is behind the counter.
This long prologue to say that this review is about the bad omakase that I tried: Kasen.
The visit
I visited during my summer 2019 trip and I made a booking through their website for a lunch. It was not really necessary as I was the only customer. The restaurant is located not far from the central thoroughfares of District 1. On the paper, it was supposed to be a very good place. The owner is a Japanese-born chef, Shinji Murata, that established a successful sushi restaurant in Los Angeles. Actually this was the first red flag. The owner-chef did not live in Saigon.
The first disappointment was that no counter seating was available. I was informed that they were building one on the top floor, but at the time of my visit for a solo diner only the ground floor was available. The dishes came from the kitchen on the second floor (where also private rooms were available). This was the second red flag. But I was already there…
I chose their summer omakase that was a mix of sushi and other dishes. They also had a more affordable sushi-only omakase and a la carte ordering was possible.
Dishes were served and explained by a very professional waitress that could speak good English and actually knew the dishes inside out.
The first dish was beef taco with what I believe was white salsa and shrimp ceviche, all on the spicy side. American influence was all too evident.
Next was salmon sashimi with light chili dressing and wasabi, ginger, nori on the side.
I did not take pictures of the next three dishes. There was ikura with asparagus and egg yolk sauce. Then tuna tataki (actually one slice of sashimi tuna and negitoro on top, not sure why they called it takaki) with yuzu miso and rocket flower. The yuzu was not really distinct, but the flavor was disturbed by chili sauce on top. It was simply too spicy and killing the flavor. Definitely this chef likes it spicy. The appetizers were concluded by hamachi on a sauce mixing ponzu and minced radish. A jalapeno slice on top of each slice of hamachi completed the dish. Again, the fish flavor was overwhelmed by the sauce and condiments and personally I do not like it.
It was time for some nigiri sushi. On the website they stated that “sushi rice, which we believe is just as important as the fish, is served warm and loosely packed”. This was really great to my hear. Warm sushi rice is indeed one style adopted by some restaurants in Japan. So imagine my disappointment when it turned out that the rice actually was quite ordinary and not really warm.
The first trio of nigiri included lean tuna (akami), medium fatty tuna (chutoro), and fatty tuna (otoro). I can only say that the tuna came in very thin slices. Real thin. Not my favorite.
Next three sushi: seabream, foie gras, halibut, already finished with wasabi, soy sauce, and garnishes as it should be in an omakase. The foie gras was disappointing in terms of flavor (maybe overcooked?).
Then there was an unimpressive handroll with crab meat.
Next was a beef tenderloin dish on a potato mash with soy balsamic sauce (I suppose a house recipe). I wish the meat had been more tender. I do not think it was wagyu as you would expect. The sauce did not add much to the flavor. The potato mash was velvety and exquisite.
A final staple dish was a bowl of cold soba noodle that was ok. But again unremarkable.
Last was a scoop of matcha ice cream. This was very good (I believe it was supplied by Ralf’s Gelato).
The check
Final check was 1,672,000 VND (72 USD). It was my most expensive meal during my trip in HCMC in summer 2019 and it did not deliver (at least the tea came with free refills!). I appreciated the design behind the dishes, but in some cases an ingredient would take over and kill the rest of the flavors. I love seafood and I found the one served quite bland. Those thin slices on the nigiri where kind of sad. The problem was the execution. If the dishes were just a little bit better in terms of preparation and flavor, I would have had no issue with the check. Unfortunately most of the dishes were just disappointing and for this reason I cannot really recommend this restaurant.
Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
101 Le Thi Rieng, District 1.
Website: www.kasen.vn.