In Tokyo thre is a Michelin-starred restaurant (one star) specializing in sardines (iwashi in Japanese). It is Shinjuku Kappo Nakajima (or just Nakajima). It is a nice illustration of how Japanese chefs can take even the most trivial ingredient or cuisine and make it special. In this case, it is owned by a family in its third generation of chefs in Tokyo (and two in this restaurant).
It is also heralded as the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant where to have lunch in Tokyo. You can spend less than 9 USD. Dinner however is another story: they serve sophisticated and pricey course menus and a reservation is almost always required. I went for a lunch (October 2019), when reservations are not accepted.
The visit
In the tradition of high-end restaurants in Japan, Nakajima is located in the basement of a residential building.
I arrived at the worst possible time, around noon, where the line was still pretty discouraging. However it moved quickly. Still, I had to wait more than half an hour. By the time I left, at around 1pm, the line was much shorter. The doors open at 11.30 and the last order has to be placed by 1.30pm.
Inside they have the classic counter seating around the open kitchen, but also a few private rooms that for lunch were shared among different customers. It is not a small place. I seated in one of the private rooms sharing a table with two Italian ladies. Obviously, you are not welcomed to linger around. A group of Aussies at another table in my room was kindly asked to leave as they were finished but did not give any sign of moving.
Sardines were available in four styles: raw (sashimi), deep-fried, simmered in soy stock, and casserole (nabe).
The lunch set included rice, pickles, and miso soup.
I tried the deep-fried dish. It was good, even if the frying covered the flavor of the sardine that I like natural. This was the half portion.
It was also possible to order additional dishes individually (without the side dishes). I tried the sashimi that was much more satisfying. Also this was the half portion.
Finally I had their casserole dish (nabe) that the staff seemed to be particularly proud of. There were eggs and spring onions. It was indeed a good and rich dish, recommended, but very hot… This was the full dish that came with the side dishes (but it was the last dish I got).
The check
The nabe was 990 yen and the two half portions cost 770 in total. It was just 1,760 yen (tea was complimentary) or 16 USD. It was really affordable. If you go, I suggest you to do like I did and try more than one dish (queuing for just one small lunch set may not make sense, unless you get full easily).
I am glad I tried the restaurant and I think I got what I was supposed to get. The lunch sets are good, but not high-cuisine, and are priced very reasonably. I do not think I would spend 100 USD for one of their dinner menus though.
In Tokyo:
3-32-5, Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.
In Japanese: 〒160-0022 東京都新宿区新宿3-32-5日原ビルB1.
Website: http://www.shinjyuku-nakajima.com.