Dessert – Page 2 – Check Please!

Lord Stow’s vs. Margaret’s: The real story of Macau’s egg tarts

The egg tart is a Portuguese cake that originated in the 1800s and is very popular in Macau. However, the history of the current iteration of the egg tarts in Macau is quite twisted. It is not a direct import from Portugal as you might expect given the Portuguese legacy in the former colony.

Based on the pasteis de nata from Portugal, the tarts in their current form were introduced to Macau by a British pharmacist-turned-baker, Andrew Stow in the late 1980s. After tasting the tarts in Portugal, Stow returned to Macau and started experimenting with the recipe to create his own ‘Macau’ version. He opened his first bakery in 1989. He passed away in 2006, but his bakery continues to bake over 10,000 tarts a day. BBC wrote a feature about him. The business is now managed by the sister and the daughter.

Adding twist to the twist, after their separation, his wife Margaret Wong opened her own bakery and started to compete with the ex-husband.

Lord Stow’s Bakery and Margaret’s Cafe e Nata are the two most famous places where to find egg tarts in Macau today, but other local bakeries have them as well. The Hong Kong version, by the way, is quite different and has a different story.

Lord Stow’s Bakery

Lord Stow’s Bakery original shop is located in Coloane village, in the Southern part of Macau.

I bought a set of six for 50 MOP (a little over 6 USD). The individual price was 10 MOP. Unfortunately the bakery in Coloane has no place where to seat. The cakes are best tasted hot. They were firm and the cream brulee cover added flavor to the mix.

Their handmade chocolate pie was another item that attracted my attention, but I did not try it.

They have several outlets in Macau, including some cafes: check their web site for addresses. Finally, two small franchisees are present in Osaka (Dotobori) and in Manila.

Margaret’s Café e Nata

Margaret’s cafe is located near the central Senate Square (17B R. do Cmte. Mata e Oliveira). During the weekend expect long queues. I visited it on a Monday morning and there was no waiting time. They also have some benches in front of the store that is nice.

They have sandwiches and drinks as well. Right in front of the entrance there is a DYI station where to choose the ingredients for a sandwich. But it did not look particularly attractive.

Frankly, the egg tart was pretty similar to Lord Stow’s. Probably the pastry was more flaky and the cream had a stronger flavor. But I would not queue for it.

One tart was 10 MOP (1.24 USD), the standard price around town. Also tried a pizza that was forgettable.

Kakigori experience in Hong Kong with Shari Shari

Kakigori is the Japanese shaved ice dessert. Like its Korean and Taiwanese counterparts, it comes with various toppings. Hong Kong now has its own Kakigori house, opened by a Japanese gentleman that is importing even the ice blocks from Japan to ensure authenticity. I visited the original shop in Soho on a quiet September 2019 afternoon.

The visit

The original shop is on a lively street in Soho, easy to reach using the Central-Mid Levels Escalator.

It is a small place, but tastefully decorated and with a few seats. I heard of queues… but at the time of my visit (just after opening time, 1.30pm) I was the only customer. Weekend protests may have played a role.

I ordered the strawberry kakigori with a topping of Mikan oranges. Other flavors included pineapple and coconut milk, honey lemon, pink guava, mango lassi, Japanese tofu. The menu indicated green tea, strawberry with panna cotta, and earl gray milk tea as the store’s best sellers. There was also a list of extra toppings could also be added at a cost to customize your kakigori.

On the menu, they also had some other Japanese sweets such as a yuzu cheesecake, wagashi, and Hokkaido chocolate and cheese souffles. Some tea seats were also available.

The ice was fluffy and there was enough syrup trickling down the ice. They did not provide any extra syrup in a separate cup as it is often the case in these establishments. Yes, it was very authentic!

The check

The kakigori I ordered was 85 HKD (10.85 USD). It is a pretty standard price for a kakigori that could be shared between two people. The kakigori on the menu ranged from 85 to 100 HKD. It is, however, impressive to see the price increase from 2016 reading this other review.

It was a pleasant experience.

Where in Hong Kong:
G/F, 47 Staunton Street, Soho, Central.
In Chinese: 中環蘇豪士丹頓街47號地舗.
There is another branch in 14 Haven Street, Causeway Bay (in case you do not like the idea to climb up to Soho).

An introduction to the pleasures of kakigori in Kyoto

Korea has bingsu. Taiwan has Ice Monster. Japan has kakigori.

Kakigōri is a Japanese shaved ice dessert flavored with syrup and a sweetener, often condensed milk.

Umezono is a dessert shop in Kyoto with multiple branches. I visited one (not their largest) to try my first kakigori.

The visit

I visited the Kawaramachi branch located on a busy commercial street.

They also had other Japanese sweets, in particular sweet skewers.

I focused on the task on hand and chose a kakigori. Unfortunately this shop did not have many options in terms of flavor.

I had the green tea kakigori that came with a green tea scoop of ice cream on top, some red beans and mochi. There was also a small glad of additional green tea syrup.

The portion was big, but manageable for one person. Overall it was quite good, even if I do not crazy about matcha (green tea).

The check

I spent 930 yen (8.70 USD) for this huge dessert. Good value.

Where in Kyoto:
234-4 Yamazakichō, Nakagyō-ku.
In Japanese: 〒604-8032 京都府京都市中京区山崎町234−4.
Website: umezono-kyoto.com.
Tip: most of these kakigori places are closed on Wednesdays (do not ask me why). If you like to try Umezono, go to their main branch “Umezono Gallery and Cafe”.

Cacaotier Gokan: all the pleasure of chocolate in Osaka

Gokan is one of the most famous pastry shops in Osaka (see review). Recentlt, they spun-off a new business, Cacaotier Gokan, specializing in chocolate desserts and cakes. I tried it in my summer 2019 trip to Osaka.

The visit

I noticed the new shop by accident, just passing by.

Downstairs they have a boutique selling various types of chocolate.

Upstairs they have a tea room where you can sit down and enjoy cakes and drinks. As in their main shop, the waitress presented me with a tray with samples of the desserts available.

I had one of their mousse and a hot chocolate (served at the right temperature). Very nice.

Before leaving I noticed one of their original creations: tea with cacao flavor. Sadly I did not have space in my baggage for the purchase.

The check

The hot chocolate and the cake cost me 1,350 yen (12.50 USD). Not cheap, but clearly they want to position themselves as luxury chocolate.

Where in Osaka:
2 Chome-6-9 Koraibashi, Chuo Ward.
In Japanese: 大阪府大阪市中央区高麗橋2丁目6-9.
Website: cacaotier-gokan.co.jp (in Japanese).

Gokan, the Samurai’s pastry shop in Osaka

Gokan is probably the most famous French-style pastry shop in Osaka. They call themselves “Patisserie du Samourai” (the Samurai’s pastry shop). Their store in Kitahama also operates a tea house upstairs where it is possible to enjoy their creations in an elegant environment. The neighborhood also hosts a number of traditional Japanese sweet shops, but Gokan stands out with its ability to blend Western techniques with Japanese ingredients. Not far away, they also have a chocolaterie now called Cacaotier Gokan.

The visit

I went to Gokan an afternoon (summer 2019) for a dessert. The store that I visited in Kitahama was opened in 2005. I had to sign my name on a list waiting for a seat to free for me. It did not take long.

Meantime I had a look around their shop on the ground floor.

Their signature cake is a creamy roll with some red beans.

They have many cakes that are unique to their shop, like a green tea roll.

They also have some dishes for breakfast or lunch.

However I was interested in their cakes. So the waitress brought in a tray with samples of their dessert. It was an amazing view.

I ended up having their signature roll and a sweet soup with red beans. It looked like a nice East meat West platter that I fully enjoyed. Even if I was not that impressed by the roll.

The check

For the two sweets and a drink I spent 1,479 yen (13.65 USD).

I think Gokan is a great place where to have a serious dessert while in Osaka.

Where in Osaka:
2-1-1 Imabashi, Chuo-ku | Arai Bldg.
In Japanese: 大阪市中央区今橋2-1-1 新井ビル.
Website: www.patisserie-gokan.co.jp (in Japanese).
They also operate a store in Hankyu Department Store in Umeda and in Takashimaya in Namba, but the Kitahama store is the place to visit.
Here you can read the review of their chocolate shop.

Castella cake and other sweets in Nagasaki

The international nature of Nagasaki also emerges from its dessert culture. I have written about its milk seki in another post, clearly showing Western influence. This review will focus on the famous castella cake (kasutera) and some other sweets like yori yori.

The classic castella from Fukusaya

Regarded as a specialty of Nagasaki, castella cake was brought to Japan by Portuguese merchants in the 16th century. The name is derived from Portuguese Pão de Castela, meaning “bread from Castile”. It is a sponge-cake.

Fukusaya is the most famous producer of catella cake in Nagasaki (along with Bunmeido) and has branches also in other cities. Their symbol is the bat. I went to their main store in central Nagasaki.

The cake is usually sold in boxes as a gift. Fukusaya also has a chocolate castella called Hollander cake. Unfortunately their shop is not a cafe.

I decided to buy the mini-box (called Fukusaya cube) that carries two pieces of castella. It was very good, fluffy, and sugary.

The small box was just 270 yen (a little bit more than 2 USD).

Where in Nagasaki: 3-1 Funadaikumachi.

Ice cream castella sandwich at the Foreign Settlement Cafe

Up on the Hollander Slope (one of Nagasaki’s landmark) there is a lovely cafe housed in a traditional Western House open to the public. I would not call it a gourmet destination, however they had vanilla ice cream sandwiched in two slices of castella cake that was quite nice. It is a good place where to have a coffee and relax.

Where in Nagasaki: House 13, Holander Slope.

Baigetsudo’s cakes

Baigetsudo is one of the oldest pastry shops in Nagasaki and has multiple outlets. They of course sell castella (one with green tea flavor is unique to their store) and other Western cakes. In their main store they have a tea room upstairs where I tried one of their cakes. If you go, you might want to try their sponge cake with peach and pineapple; it is their signature.

Where in Nagasaki: 7-3 Hamamachi (inside the covered shopping street).

Yori Yori bakery

Not far away from Ichiriki I stepped into a bakery selling yori yori, twisted fried dough that is regarded as a perfect souvenir for people visiting Nagasaki. The Chinese influence here is clear, in China they ave the exact same thing.

I was amazed at the price of some of the packaged yori yori. I snagged a cheap bag and this was quite disappointing. It was hard as stone. They also sell castella cake, probably a better bet.

Where in Nagasaki: 7-28 Suwamachi. (Store name: 萬順製菓工場直売店).

Nagasaki’s milk seki

Milk seki is one of those unique Nagasaki dishes. It is a milkshake made with condensed milk, but it is supposed to be eaten with a spoon, not drunk. I tried it in two cafes during my summer 2019 trip to Nagasaki.

Tsuruchan: Where milk seki was invented

This was actually my second milk seki, but I will start with this because it was the classic version in the cafe that is said to have invented it: Tsuruchan, an old cafe in Nagasaki that opened in 1925 and is regarded as the oldest known cafe in Kyushu.

I easily reached the cafe from the nearby covered shopping arcade.

Inside it is pretty dark, full of memorabilia and antiques. It looks old, more than vintage, in sharp contrast with the colorful cafes nearby.

The menu was in Japanese but the milk seki was displayed with a picture. They also have other cafe food like toruko rice. But I was there just for the milk seki.

It came with the classic glazed cherry on top and a spoon. I wish I could say that it was great, but it was just bland. There were Japanese customers enjoying it. I think it is still a popular treat, especially during the heat of the summer.

It cost me 680 yen (6.35 USD). Also an half portion for 350 yen was available. If you visit Nagasaki, try it at least once.

Where in Nagasaki:
2-47 Aburayamachi
In Japanese: 長崎県長崎市油屋町 2-47.

Milk seki at Cafe & Bar Umino

I had a chance to try a milk seki also in the shopping mall attached to Nagasaki railway station (AMU Plaza).

In this cafe they had milk seki in different flavors.

I had one with chocolate and it was also quite forgettable. Nothing to do with some contemporary decadent desserts you find in Japan nowadays.

In this case the chocolate milk seki was 770 yen (7.20 USD).

Where in Nagasaki:
Amu Plaza Nagasaki 5F, 1-1 Onouemachi.

Decadent parfaits at Gokando, Fukuoka

Gokando (Resort Cafe and Sweets, because nowadays nobody wants to just be a cafe) is a popular dessert cafe at Hakata Station, more specifically in the Marui commercial complex. If you take the train from Hakata station, chances are that you may pass by.

The visit

This is the kind of visit I feel guilty about. The excuse was documenting decadent Japanese parfaits.

This was what specifically lured me inside, a chocolate parfait with 8 layers of forbidden pleasures…

This was in reality. As advertised. It was huge. And it was good.

In Japan actually I saw people, including minute women, eating this kind of stuff.

The check

If I had known the price, probably I would have skipped it. It was 2,000 yen (18.50 USD).

Where in Fukuoka:
Hakata Marui 1F, Hakata Station.
In Japanese: 福岡県福岡市博多区博多駅中央街9-1 博多マルイ 1F.
Website: gokando.jp.

Staying up late at Ninethirty by Awfully Chocolate

I am writing this post mostly because I wrote a review of Awfully Chocolate in Mainland China. While in Singapore I had a chance to go with friends to Ninethirty, the flagship restaurant operated by Awfully Chocolate in its home country.

The visit

It was past 10pm on a Saturday and the restaurant was packed. Contrary to classic Awfully Chocolate locations, Ninethirty is a full-fledged restaurant and on Saturdays is open till 1am. There was a very nice young vibe.

Personally I stocked up on Awfully Chocolate milk that is not available in China. It is just chocolate milk, but it has the right density and I enjoyed it.

Somebody in the party had the original all chocolate cake.

The check

The chocolate milk was 8 SGD a pop.

Ninethirty is definetely a good venue where to have a post-dinner dessert with friends.

Where in Singapore:
31 East Coast Road.
Website: www.ac9thirty.com (with link to menu and reservation system).

Italian artisan gelato in Singapore: Alfero

When I learnt that in Singapore there was an Italian ice cream maker, I knew I had to check it out (I already have reviews about Italian gelato in Saigon, Seoul, Tokyo, Shanghai, Guangzhou)

The visit

Unfortunately at the time of my visit Alfero only operated a shop in a residential area off-the-beaten-path. Took me a while to get there and find the place in the courtyard of a residential complex.

Just across the gelato shop there was an Italian restaurant. I bet they were related.

I just ordered a scoop made from a flavor called “Bacio” (“kiss”). Bacio is an an Italian chocolate cookie with the same name (it is famous because it comes with a slip of paper with cheesy quotations about love and life). I must say that I was not particularly impressed, the flavor of the original cookie was hardly there. But this was just one scoop on a random day, so my comment is not necessarily representative of the whole offering.