An izakaya in Kanda serving smoked foods: Kemuri

Just across Takemura (one of my favorite sweet cafes in Tokyo) I noticed an izakaya. Looking at the menu affixed outside I noticed that they specialized in smoked foods. Very interesting concept! I had to try it.

The visit

It was early on a Saturday evening and I was the first customer. I sat on a bar chair in the ground floor room (a bit uncomfortable). They also have tables upstairs.

I ordered their mixed platter with five items. It has BBQ pork, duck, bacon, rice cake, and olives (two). It was ok, but that one of the five promised items was a pair of olives seemed cheating.

They had smoked mentaiko that was good as usual.

Finally I had their smoked salmon salad that was quite good.

The check

The check for these three snack-size dishes was 4,080 yen (38 USD). For what it was, it was too much.

The concept of a smoked food izakaya was great, but it was poorly implemented. The food was clearly an afterthought, just a side for drinks. It is not an izakaya where you can have a serious meal. What a shame.

Where in Tokyo:
1 Chome-11-5 Kanda Sudacho, Chiyoda City.
In Japanese: 〒101-0041 東京都千代田区神田須田町1丁目11−5.

A mentaiko restaurant in Fukuoka: Ganso Hakata Mentaiju

I love mentaiko and Fukuoka is the capital of this delicacy in Japan. There are probably 300 producers.

What is mentaiko? It is marinated pollock eggs. The sauce used in the process includes chili, sake, konbu and yuzu citrus. The fermentation process last several hours. The result is spicy, flavorful roe, tiny in size and red in color. Mentaiko is sold in its natural membrane, easy to remove, and ready to be used for all kind of dishes. An animal like me sometimes eat it raw just as it is.

Usually mentaiko is referred as karashi mentaiko: karashi means spicy, but mentaiko can come with different levels of spiciness. Japanese cuisine also uses the untreated pollock roes that are called tarako.

Given my interest, it was natural to try Ganso Hakata Mentaiju that is a restaurant entirely specializing in mentaiko dishes in Fukuoka.

The visit

I headed to the restaurant very early, at 11am, sure to be the first customer. To my dismay, there was already a long line! I did not realize that this was a tourist spot.

I went back after 3pm and there was no line.

At the entrance I was asked to choose the level of spiciness of the mentaiko for my meal. They have 4 levels. To do so I picked up a wooden token indicating my preference that was later collected by the waitress at the time of placing my order.

I had their Deluxe Ganso Hakata Mentaiju where the homemade mentaiko is wrapped in kelp and placed on top of a bed of hot steamed rice garnished with seaweed, then topped off with umami-infused “Special Topping Sauce”. I added as a side dish a soft-boiled egg.

In this version, one piece of mentaiko was raw and another was cooked. The raw one was better in my opinion. I admired the preparation, but the gain in terms of flavor from a raw piece of mentaiko was minimal.

I am a bit sorry that I did not have room for another dish. They had a cod roe soup and other mentaiko dishes that seemed interesting.

The check

I spent 3,196 yen (30 USD). The dishes were definitely not cheap. I would not suggest anyone to queue for an hour or so for this restaurant. But if you are a mentaiko enthusiast like me, you might want to try it going at odd hours. At Chikae Fukuoka I had some very interesting mentaiko dishes that I liked even more.

Where in Fukuoka:
6-15 Nishi Nakasu Chuo-ku.
In Japanese: 福岡県福岡市中央区西中洲6-15.
Website: www.mentaiju.com/mentaiju.

Seafood feast with mentaiko and Ikizukuri dishes at Chikae Fukuoka

Researching Fukuoka, I learnt about this restaurant through a youtuber channel called Strictly Dumpling. As I have experienced in the past, these youtubers tend to be over-enthusiastic about the venues they visit. You will find here a more down-to-earth review with and at the end I will share a “ordering” strategy to enjoy this restaurant without breaking the bank.

The visit

I went there one afternoon to make a reservation. They have a reception where reservations are accepted throughout the day even if the restaurant is open only for dinner on weekdays. The reservation was not really necessary though, there were a lot of seats available at the counter on that evening.

The restaurant main dining room on the ground floor is truly beautiful with tanks filled with live seafood in the middle and two long ginkgo counters on the sides. Further tables are available behind the counters.

I was given a seat at the counter.

The horseradish (wasabi) was grated at the table. This was very classy, it is usually done in high-end omakase sushi restaurant. This kind of fresh wasabi is not so spicy as the one “in tubes”.

Two types of soy sauce were provided.

My first order was amadai fillet, a seasonal fish (more common in Kansai though). It was not so great and it was a micro-portion.

Then I wanted to try a Fukuoka quintessential dish, the local mackerel in sesame sauce. It was quite good, but again it was a micro-portion and I am pretty sure you can find better and cheaper options elsewhere. But I did not have a long time in Fukuoka to I took the plunge (it was not listed on the menu by the way, but they of course knew the dish).

Then I had two very interesting mentaiko dishes (they have a full page on the menu dedicated to mentaiko). The first was a kind of dumpling filled with mentaiko and with squid pulp all around. It was really good.

The second dish was nothing short of spectacular! It was a sardine neatly filled with mentaiko. The flavors were speaking the language of the sea. I understand it may not be everyone’s cup of tea.

By the way, the company owning the restaurant is also a producer of seafood delicacies sold throughout Japan. The dumplings and some other mentaiko dishes are part of their offering. They have a retail shop close by the restaurant.

The restaurant is famous for their live seafood dishes (ikizukuri style). These dishes consist of sashimi and the rest of the fish is deep-fried (tempura or karaage style) or salt-grilled. The fish is prepared live.

Most of the fishes were very expensive. I decided to try the most accessible, the squid (ika) that is particularly renown for its tenderness in this region of Japan. The sashimi was brought to my table with a part of the squid still moving. Then I was left the sashimi and the rest was taken away to be deep-fried.

The result was some nice and tender fried squid. It was a portion for one person.

The check

All in all I spent 9,260 yen (86.5 USD). What to say? The level of service, quality of the seafood, and the decor commanded a premium price of course. The mentaiko dishes were very reasonably priced (less than 10 USD, maybe because part of the company’s retail offering), the live squid was ok (around 25 USD, for two would be 40). The amadai and mackerel dishes in terms of value for money were disappointing.

While keeping in mind the price tag, I would recommend the restaurant to try 1) one or two mentaiko dishes as I did, 2) maybe a marinated fish (I did not try them but there were some interesting options), 3) the live squid. This should keep your check under control (50-60 USD). If you start ordering sashimi or exotic fish, the check will soon skyrocket.

Finally, above you can see a picture of some of the company’s product on display in the retail store a few meters down the road.

Where in Fukuoka:
2-2-17, Daimyo, Chuo-ku.
In Japanese: 福岡市中央区大名2-2-17.
Website: chikae.co.jp/foreign/en/

The best dishes from Hokkaido Sachi restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City

Saigonese love Japanese food. In 2010, when I first visited the city, two chains were dominating the market: The Sushi Bar and Tokyo Deli. They are still around, but since then, restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City have upped their game when it comes to Japanese food. One of the most successful is Hokkaido Sachi that over the past few years has multiplied the locations around town.

From what I gather, it is owned by Vietnamese investors and some locations are in franchising but they had the foresight to hire and keep on staff some chefs from Japan. Most restaurants would only hire them to kick off the business, but I keep seeing them time to time overseeing the quality of the kitchen operations. This means that there are some genuine Japanese chefs that, while not involved directly in the kitchen, keep securing the quality control. This makes a difference.

Hokkaido Sachi is easily my favorite Japanese restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City (in particular I usually go to their branch on Nguyen Trai street, pictured below). In this review I will show some of my favorite dishes from their extensive menu.

The visit(s)

The service starts with some complimentary grilled ginkgo seeds, a classic izakaya snack.

The sashimi selection includes a lot of imported fish not easily found outside Japan. In the selection pictured above you can see hammachi and kampachi sashimi (two types of Japanese amberjack/yellowtail).

More sashimi in the picture above with a double portion of their regular tuna (112,000 VND for five pieces) and a portion of another exotic sashimi type, ishidai.

Also, keep an eye on seasonal fish. In the summer of 2018 I had this spectacular sashimi dishes with isaki (360,000 VND) and, again, ishidai (390,000 VND), two varieties popular in the summer in Japan.

The menu seems to enjoy the use of delicacies based on fermented roe. The picture above shows ika-mentaiko, squid with its own roes, spiced and fermented. An absolute delicacy. The mentaiko dishes should not be missed.

Of course, they also have original mentaiko, that is cod roe fermented and spiced.

They use mentaiko also for some grilled dishes. For example, pictured above, a slice of salmon surmounted by a layer of mentaiko and a scallop prepared in a similar fashion. Needless to say, this additional layer makes the dish even more delicious.

Or they even have Japanese omelette roll filled with mentaiko, another dish sometimes found in Japanese izakayas.

They have an ample selection of sushi. Their standard sushi set (around 220,000 VND, less than 10 USD) has 11 pieces.

One special dish is the foie gras sushi. The foie gras employed is top quality and worth the 170,000 VND for two pieces.

They also have various aburi sushi: for these pieces of sushi, the top fish is flame seared. Pictured above the salmon aburi made more delicious by some roe on top.

They have a large selection of creative rolls, like the roll with cheese and shrimps shown above.

More delicious and unusual Japanese food: above a bowl of ikura chawanmushi (the classic savory egg custard with salmon eggs).

And kazunoko kombu, herring roes with dried kelp (traditionally a new year’s dish in Japan),

More: grilled kisu fish with cheese (a type of whiting available during the summer).

Finally, I should mention that they also have some excellent meat, like the US beef steak set shown above. More exotic beef from Hokkaido is available, but frankly I think seafood should be the rightful focus of this restaurant experience.

The check(s)

In the summer of 2018, a lunch for three people cost me (after a 15% discount for a loyalty card) 1,158,000 VND (50 USD).

Another more lavish lunch for 2 people with the seasonal sashimi went for a similar price.

Even if you account for the discount, this is great value for money.

Unfortunately prices move quickly in Vietnam and I cannot assure that you will find exactly these prices on your next visit.

However, you will hardly find in South East Asia a Japanese restaurant with so many authentic and exquisite dishes at this price point.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
Check their website for a list of locations.