Three Portuguese restaurants in Macau compared

Macau, today a Special Administrative Region of China, from 1849 to 1999 was a concession administered by Portugal and you can see the European footprint everywhere, from the names of the streets, to the architecture and the food. Thanks to this history, in the small peninsula (home to just 800,000 people) you can find some excellent Portuguese dishes. Here’s three Portuguese restaurants in Macau that I tried in October 2019.

The luxury one: Guincho a Galera

The outpost of a Portuguese Michelin-starred restaurant, Guincho a Galera does not betray its five-star setting inside the historic Lisboa Hotel. The tasting menu is a good way to explore the fine dining offering of the restaurant. A lunch set starts at 42 USD for two courses and dessert. By the way, if you go, you do not want to miss the dessert cart.

The over-hyped one: Antonio

Located in Taipa village, Antonio seems to cater mostly to tourists. The food we tried was good, but it did not blow us away. Overall it was overpriced. It may be worth trying if you fancy a special dish with monkfish or Portuguese veal and do not worry about the check.

The good one: Albergue 1601

Located in the heart of a historic district facing a lovely courtyard, Albergue 1601 impressed us both for the service and the quality of the food. The value for money was also excellent. They have Portoguese codfish in various styles and at least one should be on your list.

Portuguese cuisine loved by locals: Albergue 1601 in Macau

Albergue 1601 is a Portuguese restaurant nestled in the heart of the historical neighborhood of St. Lazarus District. From October onwards, alfresco dining is also available for lunch in the courtyard under the canopies of giant camphor trees. I included in my itinerary because it popped up in reviews from locals and it was located at a reasonable walking distance from St. Paul’s ruins where I completed my first itinerary in the old city during a trip in October 2019. By accident, the courtyard was a occupied by a very noisy Halloween party (not related to the restaurant).  

The visit

I and a friend did not have a reservation but we were quickly accommodated in one of the last table available.

Bread with some dip sauce was provided free of charge and so tap water.

We decided to share the seafood rice that ended up to be quite rich, with mussels, clams, shrimps, and squid. This was our appetizer.

Then each of us chose a type of Portuguese codfish (the signature fish was available in several styles). My choice was for the baked codfish with cornbread. I found this dish delicious and the flavor of the codfish was not compromised by the condiments.

My friend opted for a “spiritual codfish” that turned out to be a sort of porridge (some wine was also used).

Both dishes were very large! Each of them could have satisfied two people.

I need to praise the service. The staff was very attentive and proactive in solving small issues such as a wobbling table. They even offered to switch off an air conditioning unit that was pointing the cold air toward the table.

The check

Without the wine, the food check was around 700 MOP (or 43 USD per person). Considering the size of the dishes, the price was reasonable. I kind of regret that I could not try more dishes, but I was completely satisfied by what I had and I would certainly go back if I visit Macau again.

Where in Macau:
8 Calçada da Igreja de São Lázaro.
Website: https://www.albergue1601.com.

Authentic Portuguese dishes at Antonio in Taipa, Macau

Antonio was established in 2007 in Taipa Village by Portuguese national António Cohelo who decided to lead his career as a chef after years of service in the military army. 

The visit

I made a reservation though Open Table for a Sunday lunch with a friend. I was attracted by the promise of authentic Portuguese dishes and top-shelf ingredients. The restaurant is located in a quiet street of Taipa village, a must-see neighborhood if you are touring Macau.

Outside the restaurant’s awards are proudly displayed. It is a “table” in the Hong Kong and Macau Michelin Guide.

Upon arrival we were offered some bread and butter and some olives.

We decided to share two appetizers. The first was the classic codfish cakes (pasteis de bacalhau). They were very delicate but strangely the codfish taste was almost absent. They were quite different from those I experienced in Lisbon.

The second appetizer was a squid salad. Everything about this dish was perfect: the squid, imported, was super-tender and the flavors were well balanced.

My friends has a squid ink rice with codfish. He was happy with it, but the flavor did no stand out.

I went for what probably was a boring dish: a lamb shank. The dish was perfectly executed with a nice set of vegetables.

We had dessert elsewhere.

The check

The final check was 1151 MOP (142 USD, or 71 USD per person). The food was ok, however, I left with mixed feelings. In the end the premium for imported ingredients dd not pay off and at times the flavors were bland. In comparison, I got more value in a restaurant like Guincho a Galera. Most of the diners were tourists. Unfortunately, the impression left is of an overpriced tourist restaurant, even if the food is not disappointing.

A tip: in front of the restaurant there is another restaurant by Antonio called Tapas de Portugal. It seems to have the same dishes but in smaller portions and comparatively lower prices. It may be a good starting point to try Antonio’s cuisine.

Ps: even if they double checked my name upon arrival, they communicated to Open Table that I was a no show. Quite annoying.

Where in Macau:
7 Rua dos Clerigos, Taipa
Website: https://antoniomacau.com.

Portuguese fine dining at Guincho a Galera in Macau

Guinchio a Galera is the first branch abroad of a Portuguese Michelin-starred restaurant. The mothership, Fortaleza a Galera, is located in Cascais. It did not get the star in Macau, though.

The restaurant occupies a large room on the third level of the Lisboa Hotel that was formerly hosting Joel Robuchon (now relocated to the fancier Grand Lisboa).

The visit

I decided to have the tasting menu, which is varied monthly, so do not expect to find exact the same dishes if you go for this menu.

The bread basket was promptly provided and was excellent. It included soft banana bread and classic Portuguese brad with bits of ham.

Their first dish was called “Black and white”. The black was squid ink and the white squid meat. Some uni was added for good measure. The squid was very tender. A very good dish.

The second dish was a creamy slow-cooked oxtail soup. Quite delicious.

The third dish (and first main) was a classic seafood rice. There was only a small layer of rice, while the plate was full of seafood: some Boston lobster, clams, shrimps, ad some crab meat. I was happy about he balance.

The fourth dish (and second main) featured pork in three styles. The pork crusted in herbs (and I believe slow-cooked) was the best.

Finally the waitress brought the dessert cart (very heavy to move!) to let me choose my dessert. I was allowed to pick two. I appreciated the showmanship involved and there were a lot of interesting desserts.

I ended up with a chocolate mousse cake and a rice pudding.

The check

The final expense after including water and service charge was 677.60 MOP (84 USD). Not a cheap meal, but overall acceptable. Service was commensurate with a five star venue. It was a nice lunch.

The lunch set option (418 MOP for three courses and dessert) was certainly a better deal.

Where in Macau:
3F, Lisboa Tower, Hotel Lisboa, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa
Website: https://hotelisboa.com/dining/guincho-a-galera/?lang=en.