Traditional Japanese desserts at Takemura in Tokyo

Takemura is a traditional dessert cafe in Tokyo, in Kanda-Sudacho, an area full of interesting eateries (two of the best soba restaurants in Tokyo are located nearby). It was founded in 1930. This kind of stores are called kanmi-dokoro (甘味処, “sweets place”) and are rarer and rarer in Tokyo.

The visit

The venue occupies a traditional house and has both normal table seats and a few tatami seats. They do not like pictures inside, so I do not have an image of the interior.

Attention, the place is closed on Sundays and Mondays.

They offer you a bowl of hot water with cherry flowers when you seat down for an order.

They have a menu translated in English. The translation is impeccable, but there are no pictures. They have a lot of traditional desserts. In my first visit I tried their mistumame with boiled apricots (anzu). The main feature of mitsumame is small cubes of agar jelly called kanten, a white translucent jelly made from seaweeds. It came with a green tea and a syrup to pour over. It was an unexpectedly tasty dessert.

On my second visit, I tried their Agemanju that is a deep-fried version of the classic manju, a Japanese pancake filled with red bean paste. This is one of their signature dishes and they sell them also for “take-out”. I found them a bit heavy.

Since it was the end of the year, I also tried their ozoni (or zoni) a Japanese New Year mochi soup. It was a savory soup (probably with dashi stock) with rice cakes (mochi), nori, and some vegetables. I did not like it!

The check

The first dessert cost 750 yen (7 USD). Very honest price considering you also get a cup of tea.

The second visit cost me 1,320 yen (12 USD); the age-manju were 500 yen.

Where in Tokyo:
1 Chome-19 Kanda Sudacho, Chiyoda City.
In Japanese: 〒101-0041 東京都千代田区神田須田町1丁目19.

A tea in paradise: The Consul’s Garden in Chiang Mai

The Consul’s Garden is a tea house located in the same property that hosts the fancy French restaurant Le Coq D’Or in Chiang Mai. The name is a reference to the former owner of the place, a early 20th century British Consul. This was his private house (not to be confused with the Consulate now part of the Anantara Restort). This gentleman married a local woman and became a Chiang Mai’s resident. Copies of his memoir, aptly called Consul in Paradise, are available for purchase.

The visit

Upon arrival there is a carpeted path leading to the tea house.

The garden is vast and well maintained.

The tea house offers seating both indoor and outdoor. The outdoor area faces the river.

I had their mini-croissants with ham and salmon. A good snack.

And I had an iced peach tea.

The menu also includes more substantial dishes for a full lunch. They have an afternoon tea set available on weekends.

The check

I spent 440 THB (13.5 USD) for the two dishes that by Chiang Mai standards is expensive. It is the admission ticket to enjoy the garden and its views. Partially because of the price and partially because of the relative distance from the Old City, it remains a reasonably quiet place.

Where in Chiang Mai:
11 Kohklang Rd, Tambon Nonghoi, Amphur Muang.

A Japanese tea house in Chiang Mai: Magokoro

Over the past few years trendy instagrammable cafes mushroomed around Chiang Mai, eyeing selfie-obsessed young Chinese tourists. Some are there mostly for the pictures, but some also serves exceptional food and drinks. Magokoro belongs to the latter category: their tea and dessert offering is outstanding.

The visit

I have been to Magokoro several times because they have one of my favorite desserts in Chiang Mai. If you can, go on a weekday. On weekends you might need to queue (they even have a waiting room in the building next door). Yes, it is that popular.

The building has been renovated to look like a traditional Japanese tea house.

The main house is not huge, with a simple and elegant decor.

The most coveted seats are outside, facing a Japanese garden.

In my first visit I had a cold brew of hōjicha (roasted green tea). I am not an expert, but I liked that even in a cold brew the crispy flavor of the roasted green tea was very distinct.

But what won me over was the hōjicha parfait. The ice cream was ok, but what made it delicious was the tasty red bean paste. The jellies were also very good and I liked the layer of corn flakes that added a different texture. They have the same also with normal matcha. Both are among my favorite desserts in Chiang Mai.

Since I like the parfait so much I have not tried many other products. But their matcha panna cotta looks good.

The check

The parfait was 239 THB (7.50 USD) and the tea was 119 THB (3.75 USD). In Chiang Mai you can buy a large meal for this money. Even if it is not cheap by local standards, I think their tea and sweets warrant the premium price.

Where in Chiang Mai:
191/1 Sridonchai Rd.

The pleasure of Taiwanese tea at Stop By Tea House

One day I will write a list of the top gastronomic experiences in Asia and one of spot will be rightfully occupied by tea houses in Taiwan. They are warmer than in Japan, more hipster than in Mainland China, and Taiwanese tea is usually flavorful.

Stop By Tea House has checks all of these boxes and is easily my favorite tea house in Taipei. I especially like their blending of traditional and modern.

The visit

The tea house is located in an alley just a stone-throw away from the all popular Yongkang street.

The interior is modern, with various sitting arrangements. On a weekend afternoon it may be difficult to find a seat.

They also sell tea and tea ware.

In my first visit I tried one of their aged Taiwanese teas. They gave me instructions on the optimal time to wait after adding the boiling water. Then I would pour the tea from the tea pot to an intermediate bowl.

On the side of the table I had a kettle with boiling water to add at my leisure.

I also had some of their traditional pastries, these with ginger.

In my second visit I was with two friends and I had their cold brew sampler. This included three different teas: Jinxuan, Dong Ding Oolong, Oriental Beauty (all three from Taiwan). Not that it is central, but the teas were marvelously presented in lab-style long vials; it was a very instagrammable set up that shows the ability of the tea house to blend tradition and modern taste.

In this second visit we tried several of their pastries and my favorite was a purple pastry with a full grape inside.


During my first visit, I was invited along with other customers to have a look at their amazing basement that they use for demonstrations and classes. There was a “river” going along the room that is used to circulate tea among the attendees. It was a magical place.

The check

In my solo visit I spent 396 NTD (there is a 10% service charge) or around 13 USD for a tea pot and a serving of pastries. Fantastic value for money for the quality of the offering.

Needless to say, I thoroughly enjoyed my visits and I try to go back every time I am in Taipei.

Where in Taipei
No. 9, Lane 13, Lishui Street, Da’an District
In Chinese: 麗水街13巷9號
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pg/stopbyteahouse