Yōshoku is a type of Western-inspired Japanese cuisine that originated during the Meiji period. Shiseido Parlour restaurant, opened in 1902, is a perfect example of this cuisine still up and running in Ginza. Yes, it is that Shiseido, the cosmetic maker. The company owns a building in Ginza with a cafe and restaurants.
The visit
I went to the restaurant toward the closing time without a reservation on Christmas evening 2019. The reception on the 4th floor kept me waiting for five minutes until a table was available for me.
The dining room had a retro atmosphere, with waiting staff with white gloves finishing dishes table side. The place was still full – with most diners finishing their dinner – so I did not want to bother anyone taking a picture of the room. At a certain point there was a violinist briefly playing for the customers. That kind of atmosphere.
The only reference to Shiseido was some kind of cosmetic on the table (but it was not a gift).
I was offered choice of either bread or rice as a side dish.
I had their dish with roasted lobster, scallop and white fish. It was a substantial dish.
Then I had their famous croquettes. Pronounced a la French. They use bechamel sauce as a thickener and not potatoes. The result is a very smooth and soft texture. Croquettes is a perfect example of Yōshoku dish still popular today in cafe and restaurant menus.
Other classic Western-style dishes on the menu included various curry and rice dishes, fried chicken (tomato flavor) and rice omelet. The most expensive dish was a spiny lobster.
I skipped the dessert given the intense day of eating.
The check
Just two dishes set me back 7,920 yen (73.5 USD). As you might expect is not cheap, clearly you pay for the luxury environment (or I shall say the Japanese idea of how a Westerner refined dining venue should look like). It was a nice dinner and I am glad that I experimented this kind of restaurant but I won’t go back. Sure, the dishes are more refined than the commoner’s versions that you can find in cafes and quick-serving restaurants around Tokyo (or Japan), but these are not the dishes I am after when I am in Japan.
Where in Tokyo:
Tokyo Ginza Shiseido Building 4/5F 8-8-3 Ginza, Chuo-ku.
Website: https://parlour.shiseido.co.jp/en/shoplist/restaurantginza/.