Champon or Chanpon (ちゃんぽん) is a noodle dish that originated in Nagasaki. Lore has it that it was introduced by Chinese students (or merchants). The dish is made by frying pork, seafood and vegetables with lard; a soup made with chicken and pig bones is then added. Unlike other ramen dishes, only one pan is needed as the noodles are boiled in the soup.
I am not a fan of noodles, but I decided to try it while in Nagasaki in a trip in the summer 2019. I went to Shikairo (四海樓), a restaurant that has been serving champon since 1899 and even has a small museum on its premises.
The visit
The restaurant is occupies a massive five-story building overlooking the port. It is an ugly building… you won’t miss it.
The proper restaurant is located on the 5th floor.
As soon I as stepped inside the crowded dining room (I had to queue 10 minutes or so), I immediately felt that it was a touristy place. It was. But it was not a tourist trap. This was a very well-oiled and efficient operations satisfying hundreds of customers every day. I have a lot of respect for this kind of operations. Once I sat, my bowl of noodles came quickly.
I had their house Champon. Also a number of other Chinese side-dishes was available, but I just wanted the noodles.
Here they were. The stock was quite creamy. The shredded egg yolk was another of the characteristic features of the dish. I did not find it particularly good, but it was a filling bowl of noodles.
Before leaving I took a stroll in the museum (free of charge) on the second floor. On the ground floor you can buy the Champon noodles and soup stock if you wish to do so.
The check
I paid 1,080 yen (10 USD). Considering the nice (even if crowded) dining room, I did not mind paying this price. I am pretty sure that we were all tourists in this restaurant. If you wish to try a Champon that locals like, ask someone in Nagasaki for a pointer.
Where in Nagasaki:
4-5 Matsugaemachi.
In Japanese: 長崎県長崎市松が枝町4-5.