Well-thought fusion food in Peacock Bistro in Dadaocheng, Taipei

Dadaocheng is an historic district in Taipei that used to be the main commercial port. In recent years, Dihua street in Dadaocheng has undergone a process of gentrification (a good one) and has become a vibrant artery combining traditional shops selling spices and teas with contemporary eateries, tea houses, and design outlets. Walking along Dihua street to get to Peacock Bistro was really a pleasure. Among other things, there was a museum dedicated to the topic of comfort women in the Second World War, a day time food market, and a temple known to people looking for their soulmate.

The visit

I had a reservation easily made through innline.app for a Saturday brunch.


The actual entrance was through a coffee shop. Many buildings on this street have this kind of false bottom. Beyond the coffee shop there was a lovely court and then the entrance to the bistro.

The dining room had a designer feeling, yet it felt warm and comfortable.

I ordered from their regular menu (no special menu for brunch) and my first dish was a delicious cauliflower soup with yam and tempura crumbs called U Ka Bu Yume. Most of the dishes had Japanese influences.

The meal continued with some fried chicken (Chicken Karaage on the menu). The chicken wings were pitch black as the butter was mixed with squid ink. It was quite good, but I would have preferred a crispier skin. Inside the chicken was very juicy. It came with two dipping sauces, one made with sesame and another with cucumber yogurt. The dish was listed as an appetizer but it could have easily been shared between two people.

Finally I had a risotto called “Three Tresures”. It was made with kale, fermented tofu and included a generous portion of tenderized beef strips (indicated as shacha beef fillet on the menu).

The risotto was pleasantly spicy and all was well amalgamated together. The meat was very fresh and tender. It was a nice fusion risotto combining Chinese and Italian cuisine.

No dessert as I headed to Ice Monster afterwards.

The check

Total price 1078 NTD (including 10% service charge) or 35 USD. Considering the size of the dishes, an honest price in my books.

I applaud the attempt (mostly successful) to fuse different cuisines into original creations. There were many more interesting dishes on the menu.

Where in Taipei:
No. 197, Section 1, Dihua St.
In Chinese: 迪化街一段197號二進
Menu from Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pg/thepeacockbistro/menu/

First impressions of Polux by Paul Pairet

Polux is a new project headed by Paul Pairet, the chef extraordinaire behind Ultraviolet and Mr & Ms Bund. It is named after the cat of an old French cartoon and is located in the pedestrian area of Xintiandi, Shanghai.

If you are not familiar with Shanghai, you need to know that Xintiandi is a shopping and entertainment district with reconstituted traditional mid-19th century shikumen houses on narrow alleys. It is a very popular area, but I never associated it with good food (you might disagree if you are a fan of Wolfang Puck).

The visit

I headed to Polux on a Sunday for brunch meeting a friend, just one week after their opening on 14 March 2019. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner (all day dining) with different menus. Initially they were open 7 days a week, but at the time of this post they have instituted a day off on Mondays.

The staff had my reservation on the books and escorted me to a table. I liked the cloth towels, a small luxury these days.

By the way, even if the place was rapidly filling up, the staff noticed that the table was wobbling and they promptly offered me and my friend another table.

I recognized many faces among the staff from Mr and Ms Bund and Ultraviolet. These are incredibly professional people. (Including the marketing team: by the time of my visit Polux was correctly indicated on all social media, including Facebook and Google Maps; contrast this with the Bulgari Hotel for example…) By no accident, in their second week of operations, everything was running remarkably smoothly.

Bread was complimentary, as it should be in French eateries.

While I was waiting for my friend, I ordered their sardines, a simple dish, but it was nice that they included in the menu some small snacks.

I and my friend shared a steak haché with mash and eggs. A steak
haché is basically a French hamburger. I found it very good, with the beef juice adding some flavor to the mix.

Then both I and my friend had the signature Polux burger coming with fries.

It was a relatively small burger (or I should say “compact”), with bacon and a good amount cheese melting around the patty. I think that some sauce was dripped on the buns as well. But there was a twist (in what I would call Pairet’s style): the lower bun was “excavated” to firmly accommodate the beef patty and some extra condiments (asparagus?). The overall flavor was on the spicy side.

We drank the namesake iced tea, that was not regular iced tea (again one of those twists that made Pairet’s cuisine a favorite of mine): it was a concoction with verbena, orange, lemon, apple, cucumber, and mint. The result was quite pleasant.

The check

Total check was 528 RMB (or 40 USD per person). Was it worth it? Wast it good? Will I go back?

To answer context is important. 40 USD for some regular cafe food may seem pricey, but this is Shanghai, where Western food, good one, is hard to come by at this price point. From this point of view, the final check was more than fair.

In an interview that I read (sorry, I cannot find the link) Pairet explained that they intended to offer good unpretentious everyday food, something that could be the second best for many diners. I think that they delivered what they promised and even more. Polux is good comfort food with a twist here and there (and to be fair, the brunch menu was quite extensive and I wish I had tried their cheek beefsteak, their croque, and some of the egg dishes).

Finally, you have to consider that you are in Xintiandi, an upscale district not famous for its gourmet food. Polux from this point of view is a game changer.

I totally see myself going back and digging into their menu. And that Shake Shack is just around the corner is another big plus.

Where in Shanghai:
No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu
In Chinese: 太仓路181弄5号, 近黄陂南路
Nearest metro: two blocks south of Huangpi South Road (line 1).
Note: close to Xintiandi number 1 heritage house.

Dinner at Phénix at the Puli in Shanghai


The Phénix Eatery and Bar is the flagship restaurant of the luxurious Puli hotel in Shanghai. I already had a weekend brunch in the restaurant. This time I went back for a dinner as I wanted to get a better idea of this Michelin-starred Shanghai restaurant.

The visit

My visit was extemporaneous. I was in the area at the right time on a Saturday evening and I decided to give it a try even if I did not have a reservation. But this was not an issue and I was promptly seated. Most of the other diners were young – very young – Chinese couples.

I was served the bread and I ordered a couple of dishes. They also had an interesting tasting menu, but I was not that hungry. And the chair was also a bit uncomfortable for a long session.

The appetizer was memorable: crab meat with burrata cheese, asparagus, and a herb-flavored “granita”. This I guess is the kind of dish that wins you a star on the Michelin Guide. It was not only creative, but really delicious.

My main was a white fish, toothfish, with basil and other condiments, including a couple of ecargots. I was expecting more from this dish. Also the sauce, yuzu-based if I am not mistaken, was at times too strong.

T had a sidedish in the form of a French ratatouille: the portion was quite big and the dish well executed.

That’s it. I had a couple of complimentary sweets when I asked for the check.

The check

After adding tax, service charge and a 90 RMB bottle of water, the check was 699,60 RMB or 104 USD. Considering what I got, that’s a hefty sum of money. Let’s be honest, that’s terrible value for money.

If you go, I would probably recommend the tasting menu that after taxes and a drink will set you back for around 1100 RMB.

I think I am now done with this restaurant.

Where in Shanghai:
2/F, 1 Changde Lu, near Yan’an Xi Lu
常德路1号璞麗酒店二楼, 近延安西路

Bars and cafes with a view in Shanghai

This post will collect bars, cafes, lounges in Shanghai located on high floors and offering great views of the city. If acrophobia is a thing for your, stop reading now! The rooftop bars on the Bund do not qualify as they are not really located on a high floor. These are venues good for drinks and snacks, but some share the space with full fledged restaurants. They are listed on this page by floor number and they were tested mostly during afternoons, so this is not a night-life guide.

91th floor: 100 Century Avenue Restaurant

One of the restaurants of the Park Hyatt in Pudong, the 100 Century Avenue Restaurant is also available for guest for drinks and desserts. To my knowledge this is the highest dining venue in Shanghai (waiting for something new in the adjacent Shanghai Tower) as it is located on the 91th floor of the Shanghai World Finance Center (aka “the bottle opener”).

The view is truly spectacular. You can clearly see the Jin Mao Tower and, behind, the Oriental Pearl Tower. Across the river, the view captures both the Bund (to the left) and Hankou (to the right).

In one of my visits I tried their sundaes that were just mediocre.

They do better with their cakes. The chocolate mousse is memorable.

And they even have a namesake chocolate cake (not tried).

On weekends they even have a dessert buffet (with a very limited choice though). The cost is around 200 RMB per person.

Make sure to ask for the cake menu (they always fail to present it even if you specify that you are there for drinks and cakes). Service is underwhelming in this place.

A dessert will cost you around 100 RMB (15 USD) after tax and service charge. The desserts to share are better than the sundaes, so try to bring a friend along.

Address in Shanghai: 91-93/F, 100 Shiji Dadao (Century Avenue) / 世纪大道100号91-93楼.

47th floor: La Terrazza at Bulgari Hotel

The top floor of the Bulgari Hotel hosts Il Ristorante (The restaurant), Il Bar (The Bar), both operated by Niko Romito’s staff, and La Terrazza (The terrace). The latter has nice views of the Bund and offers high-teas (probably the most expensive in Shanghai at over 2000 RMB per person) and casual drinks and snacks. Unfortunately Niko Romito’s desserts are not served in this venue.

It is a narrow space, with some sofas and a touch of green. On a weekend visit, it was full of selfie-obsessed guests.

The view is interesting as the hotel is located in a position to dominate the Northern Bund.

I was with two friends and we had an hot chocolate (very Italian), a mocktail (very good), and a huge pot of tea (even if for one person only).

Prices were not prohibitive. We ended up spending 256 RMB in three (37 USD).

Inside, Il Bar deserves a mention for its impressive oval counter.

Address in Shanghai: 47/F, 33 Henan Bei Lu / 河南北路33号上海宝格丽酒店47层.

47th floor: Sky Dome Bar

This is the rooftop lounge of the Raddison Blu hotel in the New World complex near People’s Square.

The view is interesting, you can see Pudong at a distance and some other architectonic landmarks like Shanghai Museum, People’s Park and K11 Mall. Unfortunately the view is obstructed by the dome structure (that is remarkable per se, though). You can freely walk around the bar with probably a 270 degrees view.

They have an extensive drink menu, a few non-alcoholic choices (I settled for a tomato juice in my visit), and a few snacks. Nuts were complimentary.

With a juice, the price of admission was pretty reasonable, 58 RMB (8.65 USD). Service was ok. The place however was a bit worn-down and seemed in need of a renovation.

The view is better from the restaurant on the 45th floor, Epicure on 45.

Address in Shanghai: 88 Nanjing Xi Lu / 南京西路88号.

33th floor: Sky Bar

The Sky Bar is the cocktail lounge of the Okura Garden Hotel in the former French Concession. The floor is shared with two overpriced restaurants.

The view is remarkable as you can see a mix of old and new buildings.

I had a tea set. My choice of tea was longjing. The quantity of food was excellent, but the quality forgettable. Service was a bit cursory,

The afternoon tea set for one person was 149.30 RMB (22.20 USD) after tax and service charge.

Pro tip: take the panoramic elevator to get directly to the 33th floor and to enjoy the panorama as you go up. (The two pictures above are taken from the elevator; you can see the other side of Maoming Road).

Address in Shanghai: 58 Maoming Nan Lu / 茂名南路58号.

Brunch at M on the Bund

In March 2019 I finally tried M on the Bund, one of the first Western restaurants on the Shanghai’s Bund. Established in 1999 by Australian restaurateur Michelle Garnaut, the restaurant specializes in dishes with a mixture of Middle Eastern and European style.

The visit

The restaurant is located on the 7th floor of Bund 5, a location hosting many high-end restaurants (see my review of Atto Primo). They share the floor with their bar/lounge called Glam. The dining area is spacious, yet intimate. I had a reservation through Chope.

They have a wonderful terrace with view on the Bund, but on the day of my visit it was raining, so I could not enjoy it.

For brunch, they have a limited menu with the option to choose two courses (one appetizer and one main) or three (also a dessert). I went for two courses.

Included in the price also a drink. I had orange juice.

My appetizer was a carpaccio. The beef was thinly cut. The mayo was not needed.

My main dish was their weekend platter with a minute steak, a lamb chop, mashed potatoes, sausages, a fried egg. I really enjoyed this dish as I do not have often English breakfast goodies in China.

The tea came with a couple of complimentary sweets.

Before leaving I took a pic of their souvenir corner: they sell their glassware, tea cups, and other utensils.

The check

The two course brunch option after service charge cost me 327 RMB (48.5 USD). Nothing to complain about it given the location and the excellent service in English.

Also after factoring the fact that the brunch menu does not showcase the full extent of M on the Bund’s cuisine, I was not impressed by the offering. I could not really see on the menu any dish that would lure me back. Given the nice location, it is a place to keep in mind for afternoon tea.

Where in Shanghai:
20 Guangdong Lu, 7th Floor, No 5 on The Bund
In Chinese: 上海市黄浦区广东路20号, 外滩五号7楼, 近中山东一路
Website (also for reservation): http://m-restaurantgroup.com

Dining with a cause: KOTO in Ho Chi Minh City

KOTO stands for “know one, teach one” and is the slogan of an Australian charity, founded by an Australian-Vietnamese, aimed at developing the skills of underprivileged and marginalized young individuals in Vietnam. They provide care and training programs for these individuals to make them employable in the hospitality sector. The centerpiece of this strategy is represented by two training restaurants, one in Hanoi and another in Ho Chi Minh City. Dining in these restaurants effectively supports this mission.

The visit

During Tet 2019 (the Vietnamese lunar new year and the following days) I had a dinner in their latest Ho Chi Minh City location, a nice old-style residential building at the margins of District 1.

The dinner started with a complimentary canape: a Chinese style fried wonton. The menu is based on Vietnamese food, but they also have some other Asian and Western classics.

I had their appetizer tasting platter that included deep fried Spring rolls, smoked eggplant salad on a rice and sesame cracker, steamed pork and snails, beef wrapped in betel leaves. It was a very tasty selection, easy to be shared between two people.

My main was a departure from Vietnamese food: a pan-fried barramundi on a bed of white beans and chorizo, plus fennel and orange salad. A very well executed dish that could have been in the menu of a five star restaurant.

Finally, I had space for a dessert: a pandan coconut brûlée, garnished with shortbread and grated coconut. It was a very good dessert.

The check

I spent 634,000 VND (or 27.5 USD) that I consider a very reasonable price. Especially the fish was very honestly priced.

The food was good, the environment was nice and the service friendly and attentive (as usual in Vietnam staff speaks at least a little bit of English). It is definitely a place that I would recommend for the food, even without mentioning their charitable mission.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
19 Nguyễn Đình Chiểu
Website: https://www.koto.com.au/koto-training-restaurants

Western high cuisine in Phu My Hung: Jane’s Bistro

The term “hidden gem” is fairly abused in reviews (all kind of reviews). I used it elsewhere too! But in this case it is very fitting. We are speaking of a gem and it is off the beaten path. You would never imagine to encounter a hot spot for Western high cuisine in one of the alleys of Phu My Hung, the Southern district of Saigon mostly known for its shopping malls and the large Korean community.

This nice anomaly in a food scene mainly catering to the Korean community was made possible by Jane and her husband Michael that set up shop in one of the many hotels/serviced apartments complexes in the neighborhood bringing their experience from Portland, USA.

The restaurant is located on the ground floor of one of these non-descript buildings. The dining room only allows a dozen of people or so to dine at the same time. For this reason they operate on a reservation basis only, but I saw online that the owners claim that they would not refuse a walk-in if space allowed. The dining room is very comfortable, but it should be noted that it is not designed to be a fancy lounge. The focus is on the food and the service. (The visits took place in the original location. In April 2019 the bistro moved to a new location that I have not visited yet.)

The visit

I visited the bistro twice to write this review, once in the summer of 2018 and once right after Vietnamese Lunar new year (February 2019). The bistro has been around since 2015, but I learnt about it only in 2018.

The first time I ordered one of their set menus. It was a perfect way to get an introduction to their cuisine.

I was welcomed with an healthy carrot drink. I need to note that they went above and beyond as they replaced the original drink when they heard that I was not a big fan of pineapple (just a preference, I am not allergic by the way).

The lunch began with a bang, with a delicious Australian King Crab cake with orange dressing and orange gel.

The second appetizer was a veal empanada coming with smoked creamy tomato sauce. It is nice how the chef pays homage to a number of cuisines.

The first main was a piece of chicken with a unique garlic and passion fruit sauce.

The second main was absolutely fantastic: a lamb rack perfectly cooked and made even tastier by handpicked condiments: roasted white beans, cured carrots, and Mediterranean dukkah.

This feast was completed by a dessert: a home made apple mulberry cobbler topped by a scoop of vanilla ice cream by our favorite Saigon’s mastro gelataio, Ralf.

I went back on another occasion for a dinner.

I had a dish of shrimp scampi as an appetizer. As always, both the main ingredient and the condiments were perfectly amalgamated in the dish and led to great flavor.

I equally enjoyed a creamy pumpkin soup.

Then I had a fish fillet (grouper) that was a little masterpiece with layers of different elements beginning with a base of quinoa. This dish, again, illustrated very well the philosophy of Jane’s Bistro: high quality and healthy ingredients amalgamated in creative ways but never for creativity’s sake.

I completed my meal with a layered chocolate cake. This was so beautiful (maybe to the level of Trump’s cake?) and satisfying. They make their own cakes.

The check

The first meal was 1,035,000 VND (around 45 USD at that time). For a feast of this quality this sum was an absolute bargain.


The second check was 851,000 VND (36.70 USD). I noticed later that they did not charge me for the cake.

Is Jane’s bistro worth the 30-minute trip from downtown Saigon (District 1)? Absolutely it is. Excluding the five-star hotels (and they are a mixed bag to say the least), it may be very hard to find a similar experience in Saigon, combining skillful execution, quality and healthy ingredients and a nice touch of creativity. Maybe a place like Quince could be comparable (with a nicer location, but also a way higher price point).

In conclusion Jane’s Bistro brought something new in Saigon’s food scene and I am very jealous of the resident of Phu My Hung that have this restaurant just around the corner.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
19 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, District 7, Ho Chi Minh
The review refers to the old location. New location in 96 Le Van Thiem, District 7, just a couple hundred meters from the original location.
Tel: 09 0909 6505 (reservations preferred)
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/janebistro/

The Annam lunch buffet at Saigon Centre

Annam Gourmet is a brand of luxury supermarkets in Saigon specializing in imported food. They also have seats and a menu with a good assortment of Western dishes. When Saigon Centre re-opened in 2016 along with the newly established Takashimaya new overseas outlet, they took over a large space in the second basement and made it a gourmet heaven. In this location they also have a fairly large cafe area and they offer a fantastic deal for lunch in the form of a mini-buffet.

The visit

Here some of goodies from a visit during summer 2018.

A salad station.

Pizza and quiche.

Meat includes bacon, sausages, chicken, beef and clams.

They also have a small selection of sushi and sashimi and some cheese and cold cuts.

And finally a choice of fruit and desserts.

The check

This beautiful mini-buffet cost 250,000 VND (around 11 USD). It should be mentioned that drinks are not included, so the real price is more like my check, close to 300,000 VND (around 13 USD). Still, it is an incredible deal for Western food in central Saigon.

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
B2-11/12, 65 Le Loi St., Ben Thanh Ward
Website: http://annam-gourmet.com/

Brunch restaurants in Taiwan: a Tainan exemplar

Taiwan is mad for brunch restaurants. These small restaurants are halfway a cafe and a bistro. I see them as a natural evolution of Taiwanese breakfast restaurants, but serving foreign food, usually from 9 am to mid afternoon or early evening.

The visit

Just as an example, I will mention one from Tainan where I ate. In English is called character and it is housed in a small space in a back alley of Chenggong road. It could have been a garage.

Everything about it is cute…

Their specialty seems to be instagrammable latte, with cute cartoons drawn in the cream.

I went for a set luch that included an iced tea, a salad with soba and…

…and an excellent tuna cheese sandwich.

The place with its cuteness and affordable prices seemed to cater to young people.

The check

The set menu cost me only 150 NTD (4.87 USD), really a bargain for a nice lunch.

This kind of eateries, which are not really restaurants, but not a cafe as well (not really designed to hang out for a long time as in certain cafes), are now endemic in Taiwan; I noticed a lot of them especially in the South. They are really a great option for a non-Taiwanese breakfast or lunch.

Where in Tainan:
No. 4-5, Lane 68, Chenggong Road, North District

One of my favorite brunch spots in Hong Kong: the Blue Butcher (closed)

The Blue Butcher has in my opinion one of the best deals for brunch “semi-buffets” in Hong Kong. The idea of a semi-buffet is quite good: a nice spread of appetizers, desserts and other more or less substantial snacks and a menu from which to order one or two mains.

The Blue Butcher on weekends has a spread that is really difficult to beat in terms of quality. In addition to this, you get to choose a main dish from a list of five options and a cocktail.

Coincidentally, they are operated by the same company owning Mott 32.

The visit

In 2018 I have been to the Blue Butcher twice, the latest visit in December 2018. If I am staying in West Hong Kong it is a must. I usually book via phone or their website.

They have a bar/lounge area downstairs opening on Hollywood Road, while the brunch is served in the main dining room upstairs. It is a spacious and comfortable space.

The buffet is certainly their main selling point. They have a very good selection of cheese, tartines, cold cuts, seafood, not to mention the dessert station (I will mention it later).

The oyster station is alone worth the price of admission.

Seafood includes prawns, salmon, tuna and crawfish.

The choice of mains is quite limited, but they are all appealing. They have included in the basic price a burger, coal roasted Canadian pork (excellent), deep fried foie gras, pan-seared salmon, and a type of pasta (cavatelli) with mushrooms and Parmesan cheese. So far I only tried the pork and it was excellent.

On my last visit, I had one of their steaks that come at an additional price. It was a good 12 oz (340 grams) piece of Australian sirloin. Truffle and Parmesan fries are included.

Some of my choices: oysters!

Cold cuts and some good cheese (montasio and pecorino).

An avocado tartine, a piece of quiche, salmon and tuna.

My dessert panna cotta with strawberries, chocolate cake and a piece of authentic Italian panettone (it was mid December after all and that’s the season for this baked good).

The dessert station is pretty amazing and they can prepare you a real crepe.

The check

Normally the cost of the brunch is 495 HKD (63 USD). But I chose a steak and it was 220 HKD more, so the total check was 715 HKD (91 USD).

Honestly, with all the food available in the buffet, going for an upgraded main is not necessary, unless you really want a steak (but then go on a normal day when their steak menu is more extensive).

Overall, I found the Blue Butcher a very good alternative to more traditional hotel buffets.

Where in Hong Kong:
108 Hollywood Road.
Website:
http://www.bluebutcher.com

Sadly, the restaurant closed on 19 May 2019 due to rent hike.