* Street food – Page 2 – Check Please!

A visit to Maxwell Food Center in Singapore

A food trip to Singapore would be incomplete without paying a visit to at least one Hawker Center. They are typically open-air complexes populated with all sort of food vendors (the “hawkers”). Each stall usually specializes in one single food item or just a few related. They are all over Singapore and very much part of the culture.

The visit

I went to Maxwell Food Center in Chinatown area with two friends from Japan and Taiwan. It was a Friday evening in July 2019. This particular center seemed to cater both to tourist and locals. There was a good mix and it was busy but not packed. This is a relatively large center with over 100 stalls organized in 3 or 4 alleys.

We arrived at 7pm. Despite being open till late, many stalls were winding down at that time, in particular there seemed to be no chicken rice available (like at the celebrated Tian Tian Chicken Rice stall at n. 10 and 11). If you are craving for chicken rice, go earlier.

We collected goodies from different stalls (plus some drinks from a separate one; drinks are usually sold by specialized stalls) and then we found a table for the feast. Tables are not linked to any specific stall, you can sit wherever you find a spot.

First stop was a stall selling oyster fritters called Maxwell Fuzhou Oyster Cake (Stall no. 5). The cakes were deep fried with oyster meat and other ingredients such as minced prawns, pork, peanuts and oyster juice. Each cake is the size of a hand’s palm. We bough half dozen and we were derided by the seller claiming that his customers would eat at least a dozen each. Perhaps just a clumsy attempt to up-sell, or in Singapore there are some massive oyster cake eaters.

Then we went to stall 71 (Fu Shun Shao La Mian Jia) and we had to queue for 10 minutes or so for some Cantonese style roasted goose and pork.

Finally during the waiting I ordered some fish balls from stall 72 (Seafood White Bee Hoon Kitchen).

All the food was very good. The oyster cakes were less juicy than expected, but still very nice. The roast meat was comparable to the best Cantonese roast in Hong Kong. The fish balls had a good amount of batter and were also nice.

The check

Most of the food was bought by a friend so I did not track all the costs. Obviously the big ticket item was the roast meat. The cakes and the fish balls were just a few Singaporean dollars. It was really affordable.

Sinapore continues to sport quality hawker food and a visit to a hawker center is highly recommended.

Where in Singapore:
1 Kadayanallur Street
This review was very useful while looking for stalls. Also here you can find the description of several other stalls.

Gelato in Shanghai

After reviewing Gelato dal Cuore (still open, but I had the impression that quality went down and there are less flavors rotating) and Movo (not checked for a long time), it is time for a fresh selection of gelato parlors in Shanghai.

Bonus

In Ruijin 2 Road there is a gelato parlor that has become my favorite. Bonus claims to produce real gelato according to Italian methods. Not sure if it is from scratch, but they have some interesting flavors, such as cheese fig that was great with a scoop of chocolate.

35 RMB (5 USD) for two scoops. It is nice that they have a few bar chairs inside the shop, so in a hot day you can consume your gelato in a air-conditioned environment.

Address: 39 Ruijin Er Lu – 瑞金二路39号.

Il Buco

Il Buco (the hole) is just that, a window to the side of a bar, where to get Salvatore Naselli’s artisanal gelato.

Only 8 flavors are available at any given time.

40 RMB (5.80 USD) for two very generous scoops. Hazelnut and pistachio were excellent.

Address: 20-2 Donghu Lu – 瑞金二路39号.

De Medici

De Medici is located across the Waldorf Astoria, near the Bund, specifically near the intersection in front of the Gutzlaff Signal Tower.

I tried chocolate and hazelnut chocolate. It was just ok. I am pretty sure that their gelato is made with pre-mixed components. Two scoops were 35 RMB (5 USD), but smaller than the previous two parlors.

Address: 17 Yanan Dong Lu – 延安东路17号.

Luneurs Boulanger & Glacier

I also tried the ice cream (not really gelato) from Luneurs, a hipster French bakery opened by some of the staff that used to work for a popular French bakery called Farine that, until it closed amid a scandal, also featured a queue-conjuring ice cream.

I tried their raspberry/strawberry sorbet and their signature chocolate (with dried banana bits) and I really did not like it. Not creamy and low in flavor.

Two scoops for 35 RMB (5 USD) like most places, but it must be acknowledged that their scoop size is the largest among the parlors reviewed on this page.

Address: 381 Panyu Lu / 番禺路381号.

Classic Taiwanese starch balls at Eastern Ice Store in Taipei

A review of Taiwanese desserts would not be complete without mentioning starch balls and ice. Eastern Ice Store is a Taipei’s favorite for this dessert.

The visit

The first step is to queue. They are pretty fast though.

Then you can choose four toppings that will be added to a paper bowl full of ice. The balls are made with tapioca and there are classic sweet bean sauces. Unfortunately all the names are in Chinese.

This is what I got in a pretty random fashion.

Adjacent to the main shop there is a room where you can consume your dessert seated.

I did not like it much. I guess it requires a local taste.

The check

This treat is very economical at 60 NTD (or a few cents shy of 2 USD).

Where in Taipei:
No. 38, Lane 216, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao E. Rd., Da’an Dist., Taipei City

Artisan gelato in Guangzhou

One of the highlights of my January 2019 food weekend in Guangzhou was discovering an artisan gelato maker in a relative remote shopping mall. The shop is using Italian machines and making excellent ice cream leveraging on local ingredients.

The visit

I was taken to the gelato shop by a friend. It would have been virtually impossible to get there alone, as the shop only has a Chinese name and is not easily found on Google and other English-friendly portals.

The shop is located in an interesting shopping mall called Grand Tea Mall that features high-end teas from around China.

The shop has a nice sitting area outside in the middle of the shopping area.

Just looking at the seasonal flavor assortment I immediately got the impression of an artisan production. One of their feature is to always have on offer a few flavors based on tea.

We spoke to one of the owners and the main gelato maker that explained how all the ingredients were fresh and natural (made from scratch) and many phases of the production were even made by hand, producing small batches.

I had their tasting option that provided six medium scoops on cones. An excellent way to seriously sample their offering.

My selection included chocolate, ginger, and green tea.

Strawberry yogurt and two types of tea.

All flavors provided were very dense and provided clear-defined flavors.

They had Italian beverages from San Pellegrino too, in particular one of my favorite, Chinotto, a type of natural cola from Italy.

The check

The price point was very reasonable, with my feast costing just 65 RMB (or just below 10 USD).

I highly recommend this gelato shop that is well worth the trip from other parts of Guangzhou.

Where in Guangzhou:
You won’t find the address on the English web. My tip is the following:

Take the exit D at the Pazhou stop of metro line 8. The Grand Tea Mall is juts around the corner.

Or you can use the following address:
1000 Xingang E Rd, Haizhu Qu, Guangzhou
In Chinese: 广东省广州市海珠区新港东路1000号

Danish ice cream in Ho Chi Minh City: Osterberg

While not artisan gelato, Osterberg is an interesting departure from the international ice cream chains that dominate Ho Chi Minh City: it hails from Denmark and it is a family business. In Vietnam the business is managed by Cathrine, who makes all the recipes herself and has a background in Food Science from the University of Copenhagen. The ice cream is freshly made in Ho Chi Minh City with modern equipment.

The visit

In Ho Chi Minh City they have a small ice cream shop in District 2.

They offer a nice assortment of flavors inspired both by their Nordic origins and by the fresh ingredients available in Vietnam. This means flavors such as liquorice, elderflower, buckthorn and blackcurrant (recommended!) on the one side and red dragonfruit, soursop, jackfruit, and lychee on the other.

My personal favorite is their chocolate sorbet (in general I find their sorbets – basically ice cream without the milk – better than regular ice cream flavors). The chocolate flavor emerges so neatly.

I particularly like their ice-blended option: around two scoops of ice cream are blended with milk and ice: the resulting beverage has the right density for me and retains the original flavor.

UPDATE (July 2019): They discontinued the ice blend option for lack of demand. Travesty!

The check

A single scoop, like in the cup pictured in the previous section, is 55,000 VND (2,4 USD). The ice blend was 75,000 VND (3,2 USD).

If you are in district 2, Osterberg is an ice cream experience that I recommend (well, a lot less now that they discontinued the ice blend).

Where in Ho Chi Minh City:
94 Xuan Thuy, District 2
Website: http://www.osterberg-ice.vn/
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/osterbergvn/

A gastro-stroll in Lihue Night Market in Kaohsiung, Taiwan

Not the biggest or most interesting night market, still I will write this review because I have not reviewed any Taiwanese night market yet and Lihue in Kaohsiung is a pretty typical example. If you are not aware, night markets are all over Taiwan (every city has many, often running concurrently from evening to midnight or later) and they are all about food. It is some of the best street food you can find in Asia (if you compound price, cleanliness and taste in my opinion).

The visit

I was in Kaohsiung in late December 2018 and I decided to take a stroll in this market as it was very close to my hotel.

The market spread around 700 meters on Lihue street with probably close to 100 vendors. It was quite crowded, as night markets always are in Taiwan. Good thing, it is mostly food, but you can also find garments and souvenir vendors.

I started with one of the popular vendors: a stall preparing Taiwanese hot dogs. This is actually a sausage squeezed in a bun of sticky rice. Other condiments are added including ketchup and spring onion. Only 60 NTD for a small one (1.95 USD). I liked it and it was not too messy to eat. Thanks to the paper wrap it stayed into place.

Then, if you like a soft ball, the diced beef vendor is a sure shot. I have seen them in Taipei as well. The beef is cooked with a blowtorch. Not the highest quality, but it does the job. A small portion is 100 NTD (3.20 USD).

This vendor was quite interesting. She prepared some shrimp and egg balls, using quail eggs. Maybe too much pepper, but another easy dish. Just 60 NTD (1.95 USD).

I also had a piece of mullet roe, made warm and combined with a slice of apple to make it more palatable. Mullet roe is a specialty of the South of Taiwan. Just 50 NTD (1.60 USD). In the picture above, while they are warming my mullet roe, on the grill they are cooking fish gizzard.

Of course there is much more, including more expensive seafood as shown in the picture above. A few stalls have stools and a few tables in the middle of the road, otherwise it is food on the go.

The check

No checks provided, but the total experience was less than 10 USD and it was totally enjoyable. Night markets are a great food experience in Taiwan.

Where in Kaohsiung:
Liuhe 2nd Road, Xinxing District.
The night market is within walking distance from Formosa Boulevard Station of the Kaohsiung MRT.

Ice cream in Hong Kong

Here’s my top picks for ice cream in Hong Kong.

Tre Italiani

Tre Italiani is a very nice ice cream parlor and cafe in Causewaybay, at 535 Jaffe Road (they also have other locations, check their website). It is creamy ice cream coming both in traditional and innovative flavors. A cup with two scoops is 65 HKD (8.30 USD). They also have coffee and chocolates. What I like about their shop in Causewaybay is that they have seats and tables for a more relaxed experience.

Oddies

Oddies’ claim to fame is their egglets filled with ice cream. They also have a selection of 12 daily flavors that they claim to produce according to artisan standards (not tried yet). In the picture above, for 69 HKD (8.80 USD) one of their signature eggete parfait (small size) that combines one of their egg waffles and soft serve ice cream, in this case with some nutella sauce. I wish the filling was creamier. Beside, a place to try. The place is quite small, they only have a few high chairs, so you will most likely eat it on the street. Oddies is on 45 Gough Street, Central (a bit uphill).

Venchi

Venchi is an Italian gourmet chocolate manufacturer based in Turin. In recent years they expanded internationally and also went into ice cream. Gianduia and cuor di cacao in the picture. Their chocolate flavors, in particular gianduia, should not be missed. They have three locations in Hong Kong: one in the mall Festive Walk, one on 44 Stanley street, Central, and one in Harbour City. 65 HKD (8.30 USD) for two flavors. They clearly also sell chocolate and do not have much space to sit inside.

Seafood adventure at Donggang Huaqiao Fish Market in Taiwan

Did you know that Taiwan is one of the major sources of tuna in Asia? And the epicenter of the tuna trade is Donggang, a township in the Southern part of Taiwan. As soon as I learnt it I knew I had to visit its fish market. In December 2018 I ventured for the first time in the
Huaqiao Fish Market that has a large retail area ready to welcome visitors hungry for sashimi.

The visit

I got to Donggang with a public bus from Kaohsiung stopping at Pingtung Bus Station then I walked one kilometer to the fish market located next to the ferry terminal. It is also possible to find a shuttle that will leave you at the ferry terminal next to the market (more about transportation at the end of the page). Also, no need to wake up early, as this retail market opens at 11am…

The market is quite large with both sellers of any type of seafood and kiosks catering to visitors selling fresh sashimi. Here and there you can find stools and counters where to seat.

My first stop was at stall 186 where I had a lovely sashimi set with tuna, salmon, yellow tail and another type of sashimi. All for 200 NTD (6.5 USD). The sashimi was cut fresh on the spot.

Second stop at stall 118 for another sashimi set with yellow tail, salmon and tuna. This time they handed me the box with the pre-cut pieces of sashimi. Still fresh though.

At stall 227, for 400 NTD (13 USD) I had four slices of the prized kama-toro: marbled tuna collar. This cut is very rare (it accounts for only 1% of the tuna mass) and it is regarded as a delicacy. It is marbled like o-toro, but more compact. They also threw three pieces of regular tuna included in the price.

Many stalls have a piece of kama-toro on display ready to be cut.

Also had a piece of the fish cake pictured above.

At one extremity of the market there is a small restaurant (menu only in Chinese). In this restaurant I tried one of the local specialties, the flying fish roe sausage. This is really just a sausage sprinkled with flying fish roe. I won’t need to eat another one.

Finally, all over the market there are stalls selling a kind of flavored jelly. They are available in many flavors and one strip costs only 10 NTD (0.32 USD). A good way to cap the meal!

The check

Prices are quite standardized. Sashimi sets cost from 100 to 200 NTD (3.2 to 6.5 USD). The most expensive cut is of course the marbled tuna collar that goes for 100 NTD for slice. By comparison, this is easily between 1 fourth to 1 eight of what you would spend for the same amount of sashimi in a Japanese restaurant in Japan or Mainland China. The feast cost me less than 1000 NTD (33 USD).

These are wholesome market prices! I have never eaten sashimi so fresh and cheap. Needless to say, I highly recommend the detour. I will be back.

Appendix: how to get there

From Kaohsiung you can get a shuttle to the ferry terminal next to the market for 150 NTD. Do not bother buying the return ticket as it is more practical to book another shuttle while in Donggang, there are many hovering in front of the ferry terminal and their normal fare to Kaohsiung is again 150 NTD.

In front of Kaohsiung main station (not the HSR station) there is a vendor of tickets for such a shuttle inside a bike shop at the South-East corner of Zhongnan and Jianguo roads. Here’s a ticket showing the shuttle times:

However, for some reason on the day of my trip the shuttle was not running… so I just moved twenty meters ahead to a bus station for a ticket on the regular 9127A bus. It was a very smooth 45 minute ride. My stop was the Pingtunt bus station in downtown Donggang. From there I walked to my destination.

Italian Gelato in Seoul: Zucca and G. Fassi

In every major Asian city I visit I try to see if I can find some Italian style ice cream (gelato). In Seoul I visited Zucca’s Artisan Gelato and I also came across the Asian outpost of a famous gelateria from Rome, G. Fassi.

Zucca’s Artisan Gelato

Located in Itaewon, the Seoul’s neighborhood famously bordering the massive American Military Base, Zucca’s Artisan Gelato now enjoys a fully gentrified surrounding with a lot of international eateries. Zucca in Italian means pumpkin, but in this case is just the family name of the owner.

The space occupied by Zucca’s is mostly used up by the counter, but there are a few seats. They also serve Italian coffee and a few other desserts such as tiramisu cake.

As the name suggests, they should make their gelato according to the Italian tradition.

I had two scoops, chocolate and crushed figs. I found them excellent with actual pieces of caramelized figs.

Two scoops cost me 5,500 WON (or 4.85 USD), a good price as compared to other Asian locations.

Where in Seoul:
129-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (just a short walk from Itaewon metro station)

G. Fassi

Heralded as the oldest gelateria in Rome (dating back to 1880) the Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi is an institution in the Italian capital and they now have affiliated shops in Los Angeles and Seoul.

I came across their kiosk in the food court of one of the branches of Kyobo bookstore near Gwanghwamun Station (actually, you can get to the food court by taking exit 4 from this metro station).

I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of original flavors and in the end I opted for chocolate and black sesame.

The two scoops, that were meticulously weighted by the staff, cost me 5,500 WON.

Finally, I should note that they were also selling a gelato bingsoo. I did not have time to try it, but I appreciate their attempt to experiment (bingsoo is the quintessential Korean dessert).

Where in Seoul:
1, Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Address in Korean: 서울특별시 종로구 종로 1 (종로1가)
I understand that they also have other locations, this is probably not the largest.

Finding Italian gelato in Tianzifang, Shanghai

Tianzifang is a gentrified maze of narrow alleys located south of Xiantidi in Shanghai. I have a love-hate relationship with it. Sometimes I dismiss it as a tourist trap, but sometimes I go back and I kind of like the crowded alleys full of small eateries and cafes. One problem is that shops and eateries usually do not survive long. In October 2018 I was surprised to come across some Italian gelato.

The visit

Here and there you can find ice cream in Tianzifang. But my attention was caught by their sign on a small kiosk claiming to produce artisan gelato from scratch. Actually, if you look at Movo website you discover that Movo is an Italian company selling pre-mixed ingredients for ice cream parlour, so I do not know to what extent this claim is accurate.

The place is called Movo and it is just a small kiosk selling four or five flavors at any given time.

They claim to make their gelato daily with a shelf life of just 12 hours. This means natural ingredients with no additives.

I had chocolate and hazelnut. The flavors did remind me of artisan gelato: they were not strong like ice cream with chemical flavors, but still distinct.

The check

Two flavors cost me 48 CNY (around 7 USD).

Where in Shanghai:
In one of the corners of lane 248, Taikang Road.
Address in Chinese: 上海市卢湾区打浦桥泰康路248号